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Thread: Best suited optic for 3-gun?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtmtnbiker98 View Post
    Been running a stock LE6920 and need an optic for 3-gun. So, what's the preferred sight for various ranges? My Club uses distances ranging from 30-meters all the way out to 200-meters. So far the iron sights have done well, but the added time taken to gain a decent sight picture is slowing me down. So, what are you other folks using?

    I'm also looking to add a Magpul BAD along with the optic and will call it good. The Colt's trigger is surprisingly pretty good and I'm not a big foregrip advocate. Thanks for reading.
    The perfect three gun optic has arrived. The Swarovski Z6i 1 to 6x illuminated scope with a bullet drop compensator.


    Serving as a LEO since 1999.
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SA80Dan View Post
    On the TR24 the triangle is 4.2 MOA from top to bottom (when zoomed to 4x). With a 200m(220yds) zero, the bottom center of the triangle is about right for 300m(330yards)depending on ammo, barrel, etc etc etc). Much beyond that, you are getting down into the post which makes it awkward.

    The turrets on the TR24 are such that you can set them to a marked '0'. So, you go to the range, get a good 200m zero on it, and then align your turret to the '0' at that setting. Then, move your target out to 300m (or whatever distance you want; 300 as an example), and zero for that as well, but instead of making the 300m the 0 setting on your scope, you just note where the dial is (some people even mark it with a bit of whitepen or something). So effectively, you have two zeros on your scope at a quick flick of the turret - a 200m zero and a 300m zero.

    So then if you go to a match with longer shots, you can adopt that secondary zero for stages that require it. This is the method I use - the only thing with it if you are doing it properly is its a good idea to know two sets of holdovers through the full range for intermediate targets - both for your 200m zero, and your 300m zero - as you may well find a long range stage that has shorter range targets on it too, and I prefer to dial the scope at the start of the stage rather than as you go.
    thanks Dan, thats exactly the info I needed.

    nice optic popo, how big is that center dot?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shawn.L View Post
    thanks Dan, thats exactly the info I needed.

    nice optic popo, how big is that center dot?
    1.5 moa on 6x and 9moa on 1x
    Serving as a LEO since 1999.
    USPSA# A56876 A Class
    Firearms Instructor
    Armorer for AR15, 1911, Glocks and Remington 870 shotguns.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by SA80Dan View Post
    The turrets on the TR24 are such that you can set them to a marked '0'. So, you go to the range, get a good 200m zero on it, and then align your turret to the '0' at that setting. Then, move your target out to 300m (or whatever distance you want; 300 as an example), and zero for that as well, but instead of making the 300m the 0 setting on your scope, you just note where the dial is (some people even mark it with a bit of whitepen or something). So effectively, you have two zeros on your scope at a quick flick of the turret - a 200m zero and a 300m zero.

    So then if you go to a match with longer shots, you can adopt that secondary zero for stages that require it. This is the method I use - the only thing with it if you are doing it properly is its a good idea to know two sets of holdovers through the full range for intermediate targets - both for your 200m zero, and your 300m zero - as you may well find a long range stage that has shorter range targets on it too, and I prefer to dial the scope at the start of the stage rather than as you go.
    This is what I do. I used to run a straight 300 yard zero and new my hold under on the 100 & 200 yard stuff and the hold overs on the longer stuff. However I found it was much easier to hit the 100 and 200 yard shots when I dialed in my shorter range zero especially if they were smaller than the average 10" MGM Flasher. Now I would NEVER dial anything during a stage as that would be terribly slow.

    I was using the TR24 w/German #4 green dot reticle. I like the cross hairs for precision long range work because that's what scopes used to have so it's habit plus that horizontal crosshair show you when you're not level. That TR24 is what I consider THE entry level scope if you are out traveling to major matches. If your just shooting local stuff get whatever is in your budget. I have two used Millet DMS' on my Nordic Components 22lr and my 5.45x39 practice gun.

    I recently switched to the Swaro Z6i w/BRT. The BRT is awesome. I still run a 300 yard zero as my primary because that zero is on at 25-30 as well. Having that25-30 yard zero makes it ideal for those stages in bays where they use head shots or hanging clays at the back corner of the 25 yard bay to simulate long rang. No hold over like a 100 or 200 zero would have I just put the dot anywhere ON target. I also know the number of clicks down for a 100 and 200 yard zero. If a stage has a bunch of targets at any range other than 300 I will dial to that range as my primary zero. I then reference my BRT reticle data from my trusty iPhone to determine where I need to hold on the reticle for any shots that are beyond my currently dialed down zero.

    My only complaint on the Swaro is that it is a hunting scope and is not suited well for adjusting zeroes and dialing up/down on the fly. If S&B is coming out with a 1-8 in the same price range as the Swaro. It will be worth a look. Especially if the reticle is perfect for 3 gun like the BRT is.

    Sounds pretty simple, right?
    Last edited by Jesse Tischauser; 01-09-11 at 07:12.

  5. #25
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    Anybody run a Nightforce nxs 1-4x24 with the FC-2 reticle? Pros- Cons?

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtmtnbiker98 View Post
    Been running a stock LE6920 and need an optic for 3-gun. So, what's the preferred sight for various ranges? My Club uses distances ranging from 30-meters all the way out to 200-meters. So far the iron sights have done well, but the added time taken to gain a decent sight picture is slowing me down. So, what are you other folks using?

    I'm also looking to add a Magpul BAD along with the optic and will call it good. The Colt's trigger is surprisingly pretty good and I'm not a big foregrip advocate. Thanks for reading.
    I do similar local matches where the longest target is 275yrds. We have 2 shots at that distance, at most. Everything else is CQB. I am struggling with the same decision right now. A use an Eotech and just ordered an Aimpoint (micro). I have no problem hitting the 10" gong, even when at 275yds. I can't help but think a little magnification would help, but you still have to hold the dot on target and pull the trigger. Powered up or not, at 200m it's all on you.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by D.O.A.F.S. View Post
    Anybody run a Nightforce nxs 1-4x24 with the FC-2 reticle? Pros- Cons?
    Pro's nice quality optic. Con's illumination sucks.
    Pat
    Serving as a LEO since 1999.
    USPSA# A56876 A Class
    Firearms Instructor
    Armorer for AR15, 1911, Glocks and Remington 870 shotguns.

  8. #28
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    I honestly think NF could have the best 1-4x optic out there if the reticle was visible in bright sunlight when illuminated.

    The FC2 reticle works fairly well. I like the zeroing turrets. The scope is compact, very rugged, lightweight and the price is reasonable. FOV is large at 100' on 1x. Light transmission, color rendition and optical clarity are superb. Magnification erector throw is short.

    If the reticle was slightly improved and it was daylight illuminated, I think it would be perfect.

    Its got great features working in its favor.
    ---Amateurs do it til they get it right. Professionals do it til they can't get it wrong---

    --Your worst needs to be better than their best--

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