Accuracy Issues with FN PBR

**striped1** · 04-08-07, 08:23

Originally Posted by C'yotecaller

Actually no I did not. They were in season, I had a geese stamp, and the FISH AND GAME WARDEN was with me (I have known him my entire life) hunting along with a friend. We had been driving around looking for a good area to go in and get some the standard way with our shotguns when we spotted a group way out in a field. I commented that I wish we could just reach out and just drop them from there and he said no way in heck could we reach out the 350+ and shoot a goose. I said I bet I could with my .22 as a joke and he told me to go ahead and try. Our other friend asked the game warden if that was even legal. He replyed that as long as we were in a legal hunting area and had our hunting licenses and goose stamps we were fine. THE GAME WARDEN SAID SO. So unless you are a Nevada resident and have a better knowledge about the hunting laws than a Nevada Fish and Game Warden I would say you dont know what you are talking about.

Warden or not, and I smell BS on the warden issue, it is illegal to hunt migratory birds with other than non-toxic shot, and it is illegal to hunt with a rifle.

Here is the link for the Nevada Fish and Game rule book.

http://ndow.org/law/regs/huntregs/huntbook/06/sec5.pdf

You will find it on the first page under "Non-toxic shot requirements" and on the second page, Section 20.21 "Hunting Methods" subsection a., where it states that 'no person may take migratory game birds with a rifle'.

It is 2 federal and 2 state violations.

So, no you do not need to live in NV to know the migratory bird hunting regulations, and if you were actually with a game warden, then yes I apparently do know the laws better or at least I am a much more ethical hunter and less of a felon than you and your hunting buddies.

**C'yotecaller** · 04-08-07, 16:33

Your right, I apologize. But yes the game warden was with us. He was my scout master since I was 12 and the one who got me into bird hunting in the first place. Perhaps he just didnt care since he was with me to observe, I fired only one shot, and he (and I) where about 100% confident that at over 350+ yards I would never hit anything anyway. Its over though, the bird got eaten and used just like all the rest, no harm done. Life goes on.
Please let the forum return to the original purpose of talking about ways to improve the accuracy of my FN PBR

**xenophobe** · 04-13-07, 06:07

Originally Posted by C'yotecaller

I agree with you guys that the problem is probably me. And yes, I am used to Field accuracy as you call it. But I think I am a pretty darn good shot. I spent my entire childhood, high school years, and now college years hunting coyotes and jack rabbits with great success. A 30 round clip in my Ruger 10/22 will usually get me 25 rabbits. And I have shot around 14 coyotes with my Eotec mounted M-4 at over 250 yards away in the last 2 years. Last geese season I slammed a goose in the chest with my open sight .22 from 366 yards away (Granted it was a total fluke because I didn't think I had a chance in hell of hitting it!). I am not in anyway attempting to boast, just saying I think I am a good enough shot to be able to get at least a 1 MOA out of this gun. I swear everyone single guy on this site and "The other site" can do it. Just dont know what my problem is.

It doesn't sound like you know if you can shoot better than 1 MOA. A rabbit within the effective range of a 10/22 is greater than 4 MOA. A Coyote at 250m is also much larger than that. Any average hunting rifle spread can be 3-4 MOA and still get your game consistently.

You need to sit down and get it on paper to really tell, not that I think it matters to prove to anyone how well you shoot, but to figure out if it's you or the rifle you need to be in a relatively controlled environment.

So work on your marksmanship technique.

I have trouble getting 5 shots under .5 myself, but I drink a LOT of coffee and am a rather impatient shooter. If you're trying to get this kind of accuracy out of a rifle, you need to focus on every single element of your shooting technique and make sure there are no issues with your rifle. Oh, and lots of practice.

Also. I never learned or heard of "BREAKING IN A NEW RIFLE" until long after I had the gun and had already shot it a ton. When I first got it I bought 2 boxes of Winchester ammo, took it to the range, shot all 40 rounds thru it, and then cleaned it afterword. Now knowing what the proper precidure for breaking in a new rifle is, do you think those first 40 rounds without a cleaning inbetween could have jacked up its accuracy alittle?

With a chrome lined barrel? I don't think it's as much an issue unless it's SS or CroMo, and even then the 'experts' can't even agree on what constitutes proper break-in, or even if it's required.

With a chrome lined barrel, an inconsistent chrome lining could theoretically be an issue, but from what you said you have, it's probably the stock not being properly bedded, and the stock not being stiff enough. Also, if you've got a nicer scope, I'd try swapping it over for a range day.

**jmart** · 04-13-07, 08:20

Originally Posted by C'yotecaller

Jmart, I dont know what you mean by "placing a match book cover" at the forend. Please explain a little better becuase I am willing and wanting to try it and see if it helps. I just cant visualize what exactly you are telling me to do.

Remove barreled action from stock. Cut a couple of little sections of matchbook covers and make a little pad with them. Don't cut them so large that they encircle the barrel, just cut them small enough to support/apply pressure to the bottom of the barrel (5:00 - 7:00 support). Place them on the stock's forend tip and reinstall barrelled actionto the stock. Also, make sure the action screws are installed properly. You may want to consult the mfg for torque specs, but I always just make sure the rear screw is snug and then I tighten the fwd screw pretty good and then back off a half turn or maybe a bit more. I know that isn't too scientific but it seems to be a decent rule of thumb.

The idea is to place some upward pressure on the barrel at the end of the stock to dampen the vibration. If this ends up working the next step would be to remove the barrelled action again and replace the temporary pad with a proper Acraglass pad.