as i said earlier- XP springs can be very useful for "fixing" guns that have hiccups. if it makes a gun work that wouldn't otherwise, and you've well tested it for reliability, there's nothing wrong with that.
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as i said earlier- XP springs can be very useful for "fixing" guns that have hiccups. if it makes a gun work that wouldn't otherwise, and you've well tested it for reliability, there's nothing wrong with that.
Your asking the wrong guy as I run 18 lb recoil springs in all my 1911s and extra power buffer springs in most of my ARs. Eventually all my ARs buffer springs will be changed out. 16 lb recoil springs in a 1911 was a compromise to used for light and heavy loads. 14 lbs is the standard for a Gold Cup. Anyway we are off on another subject.
I do understand your point.
Anyway we are off on another subject.
Agreed, this thread is a little long in the teeth for spring, LPK or out of spec lower issue.
Lighter 14lb-15lb recoil springs can be used with a small radius firing pin stop and a full 23lb mainspring/hammer spring and normal/standard duty loads. That setup was the original design of the 1911 and relatively quickly changed to make hand cycling the slide easier. It can also help keep the slide and barrel in battery while the bullet is exiting......side topic for another thread.
I appreciate all the info everyone's give me in the thread.
I realize that you have sent your gun back to Noveske but wanted to state the following.
All AR platform weapons are not the same, just like many look alike items in life.
Depending on what ammo you shoot or if you switch back and forth between different ammo brands and weights (like I do) regularly and which magazine you run makes a big difference in how the gun operates. A lot has to do with different dimensions in the gun, IE: gas port size, gas system length, buffer weight, buffer spring strength etc. Some times a one way approach doesn't work all the time. I see several times a day on this site where some one will say run a carbine spring and H buffer "thats all you need". Some times, do to unknown reasons, a gun just doesn't run well even though we set them up "Right" and we have to change a few things until they do run correctly.
Please do not take this as a lecture, I just don't want you to be "afraid" to try different set ups on your gun just because it doesn't run setup like we "think" it should or what is the "norm".
That Noveske 10.5" upper I spoke of in my last post gets run with all kinds of cheap crap ammo, with and without a suppressor on it. I just tried different setups until it ran perfectly with crap ammo, with and without the can. I doesn't mean it was "out of spec" just that it needed a heavier spring to move the BCG forward with enough force to strip that top round from the mag and slam it into the chamber, lock the bolt and repeat for several thousands of rounds.
Anyway I know that Noveske will find out what is wrong and you will have something tangible that will run great and will last a life time.
CAN WE SAY THAT ABOUT MOST THINGS IN LIFE?
Back to lurk mode
Until that day,
Darkop
Do you carry an original 1911, not A-1, 1911? Do you use ball ammo and original magazines for self defense? Why not an original 1905 as designed by J. M. Browning? A 20 inch barreled 1/14 twist AR as Stoner originally designed? The fact is we evolve, even though some may argue that I have not, and designs can be improved upon. I do not buy into the “as originally designed“ theory. I am glad that I am not driving a Model A.
NoDo you carry an original 1911, not A-1, 1911? Do you use ball ammo and original magazines for self defense? Why not an original 1905 as designed by J. M. Browning? A 20 inch barreled 1/14 twist AR as Stoner originally designed?
No
No
No
Absolutly agree %100.The fact is we evolve, even though some may argue that I have not, and designs can be improved upon.
I agree. I wasn't trying to say the original 1911 set-up was the best and no improvement was needed. I was tryign to say some folks perfer that set up (small radius FP stop, full 23lb mainspring, lighter 14lb-15lb recoil spring) as they claim it has different recoil characteristics that they favor/prefer.I do not buy into the “as originally designed“ theory. I am glad that I am not driving a Model A.
I think we're on the same page az.
Is the face of the bolt behind the case? Meaning is the bolt pushing down on the shell instead of pushing on the back of it? Once you slap the mag it raises the case just enough for the bolt to push it forward and not down? Do you have a picture of the jam from a view that we can see the face of the bolt and the back of the shellcase?
I just got off the phone with Joel at Noveske. He checked the rifle out and determined the feeding issue to be a under power buffer spring. He also recommened a H1 buffer for my rifle (midlength 16"). He stated the buffer spring I had was in spec, he meausred it and counted the coils but said it was just weak. He put a H1 buffer and a new spring inthe rifle and said it fed great even with 31 rounds in the pmags. He also said that the hammer drag wasn't excessive wasn't an issue.
Also, he checked headspace on the BCM bolt I've been using and advsied that it was barely in spec (close to max headspace spec) and recomended I use the issued bolt.
So I went ahead and bought a buffer spring, H1 buffer and the rifle and parts went out UPS today.
Thanks to everyone that helped. I feel like a learned a few things and can't wait to get to another class.
And yes, if a few of you guys want to say "I told you so" I can't argue.![]()
glad you got it sorted out. problems can be tricky to diagnose, especially when you build your own. just tolerance stacking alone can leave you with an assembly of good parts- but a weapon that doesn't work.
we're mighty lucky to exist in a time where there is a huge selection of quality parts to chose from. a home-built gun from quality parts and assembled correctly is unlikely to give you problems. the opposite was true back when i first started building- it was basically a given that the weapon wouldn't work right off the vise. you put it all together, file-fitting parts a lot of the time, and took your tools with you to the range for the first test-firing, and probably even the second.
good on Noveske for helping you out with that, also- a lot of manfers would just tell you you're on your own.
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