Congratulations (TO ALL) for taking your first step in beginning your independence by reloading your own ammunition. As reloader’s have known for years (Generations) there are several distinct advantages to reloading our own ammunition, .
1. It’s cheaper than factory ammo
2. It shoots straighter than factory ammo
3. It shoots faster than factory ammo
4. It’s more reliable than factory ammo
5. It’s more accurate than factory ammo
6. It’s a hell of lot of fun.
7. It’s provides you with all of the ammunition you will ever need.
I’ll attempt to provide you with a foundation that you can comfortably build off of in regards to different tools of the trades you’ll need to have that are currently available to us.
Please note:
The information presented here is based off my own personnel experiences (9 years) and opinion and the personnel opinions and experiences of others that I have had the pleasure of meeting over the years. It is the sole responsibility of the individual reloader to thoroughly review, examine and (for GOD SAKES) research each product and method of reloading for Him and or herself. Please consider this a merely a guide to use in your endeavor to produce safe and reliable ammunition.
With that said lets begin!..
Recommended list of items needed for the Beginner
(Rifle & Pistol)
1.Reloading Manual: Accurate Arms, A-Square, Barnes, Hodgdon, Hornady, Lapua, Lee, Lyman, Nosler, Sierra, SPG, Speer and Vihtavouri.
2.Press: Single Stage, Turret or Progressive
3.Dies
4.Shell holders (if the die set doesn't have them)
5.Case Tumbler: Media, Polish, Sifter, Bucket and Clear Lid
6.Loading Block (caliber specific)
7.Case Lube (you won't need if using carbide dies)
8.Case Neck Brush
9.Dial Calipers: Stainless Steel or Electronic
10.Case Trimmer
11.Deburring Tool
12.Primer Pocket Clean
13.Primer Tray
14.Priming Tool (if the press doesn't come with a primer attachment)
15.Powder Scale
16.Powder Funnel
17.Powder Trickler
18.Powder Measure (nice for faster powder charges)
19.Bullet Puller
20.Plastic Ammo boxes and labels
NOTE!
You can always mix brands, shop Around for the Best Deals!
Building a proper foundation:
Before you go out and spend your hard earned money on the latest and greatest reloading supplies I strongly suggest that you buy, borrow or check from your local library this book First!! This book should be mandatory reading for all reloader’s.
“The ABC’s of reloading” The Definitive Guide For Novice To Expert (Paperback)
http://www.amazon.com/Abcs-Reloading...dp/0896896099/
It can be found on amazon.com for $16.49 and it will provide you with the proper foundation in order for you to produce safe and reliable ammunition.
Reloading Manuals.
You should try to have at least 3 different on hand to reference at all times. Personally I would look into acquiring the following: Lyman 49th, Serra 5th and Speer's Manual No. 14. (Please note) Many manuals are made by the Bullet manufactures so the data is geared towards their products. Also note that each powder manufacture also has their own loading data recommendations that you should also review, especially if you’re new to reloading. Also each reloader should also have a (powder burn chart) to review and reference: http://www.reloadbench.com/burn.html
Bench.
You are going to need a good strong bench to work from. You can make your own or use a table. I have found it really helps to attach the bench to the wall to stabilize it. Also be sure to have more than adequate lighting! There no such thing as too much light here! You will need to have enough light on the press and the bench that will allow you to easily look in a case to see the powder and that requires good lighting. A good sitting height is 30-32 inch’s, standing is about 36-42 inch’s.
Powder Scale.
Get a good scale. Cheapest good scale I am willing to recommend is going to cost about $59. Most people buy a beam scale to start. I will recommend the Dillon Eliminator Dillon's 'Eliminator' Scale: http://www.dillonprecision.com/conte...minator__039__, because it has a lifetime warranty, is made by Ohaus and is very well priced for its quality. If buy it directly from Dillon you get a Blue Press every month. Dillon, RCBs, CED, Pact and others all make good Electric Scales. I have tried some of the cheap electric scales and they are not worth the money. Expect to pay around $90 or more for a good electric scale. You will find many people have very different opinions about electric scales. I am not going to recommend one other then to recommend that you get a name brand and expect to pay about double the beam scale cost. Be sure you can plug it in and not rely only on batteries and that it has check weights. For what it worth! I have / use this one and LOVE IT! http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/con...ectronic_Scale
Dial / Digital Calipers.
You will find a bunch of people who sell Electric Dial Calipers that cost about $50. You will also find Harbor Freight sells what looks like the same thing for under $20. I got mine for under $20 at Harbor Freight and have been extremely satisfied with it - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47256. You can get regular dial calipers cheaper but unless you are familiar with their use I am going to recommend the digital one just to avoid user error. Simplify your life gentlemen don’t complicate it.
Flip Tray.
Dillon sells a nice one that I know works extremely well (I have it!). Midway USA has several options such as the Lyman, RCBS and MTM all have “Primer Turning Tray’s” and they are about a 1/3 the price of the Dillon.
Tumbler.
There are two different tumblers available that you should be aware of:
1. Rotary
2. Vibrator
I would strongly recommend a tumbler as all good reloading starts with clean brass. You can find tumblers just about anywhere (Wall mart, Midway, Harbor freight, Dillon, RCBs, etc). Harbor freight has great (cheap) Vibrator tumbler for just under $60.00 - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93252 of course a tumbler is not required, you can always just wipe off each case by hand (huge PITA) and or you can wash the cases with water/vinegar and some soap. Then let them dry a really long time (48 – 72 hrs). This actually works pretty well if you have time to wait for them to dry. You just want to be sure all the water was out of the case before loading.
(JUST NOTE!) The tumbler is the place with the most of the potential for lead exposure happens. PLEASE do this task outside and away from kids!..
Dies. (In general)
Dillon, Lee, RCBs and other all make good dies. Take my advice buy only one set of dies to start with and learn the process before you buy more latter. You can use Lee Dies on Dillon/Hornady presses. Get the Lee Deluxe Die set for pistol if you choose the Lee. They are carbide dies and you want carbide dies. Dillon and other dies cost more but they have some nice features Lee does not have. Functionally they all will work just fine. So don’t sweat it. I use Lee dies on my 550 and have one Dillon die. It’s just not that big a deal. You will find every Die maker sells their dies a little differently. Dillon Die Sets do not include the Powder die because that die is supplied with the press. Dillon includes a Sizing Die, Seating Die and Crimp Die. Lee 3 and 4 die sets both include a powder die that only works with the Lee Powder Measure (but can be used as a flaring die on the LnL). The Lee 3 die set does not include a Factory Crimp Die (FCD) or a dedicated crimp die. As with most 3 Die Sets the bullet seating die also crimps the case at the same time. Lee’s 4 die set includes a Factory Crimp Die which is a crimping die that also does a final resize of the cartridge to insure everything is in spec. Hornady sells you a Sizer, Seating/Crimp (Like a Lee) and a flaring die. With any 3 Die Set I would recommend that you get a separate crimp die and avoid crimping and seating the bullet at the same time. For those that don’t like the idea of resizing a completed round with the Lee 4 Die Set and the FCD, just get Lee’s Deluxe 3 Die set and add the proper crimp die for your caliber from Lee or someone else.
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