USMC Armorers Wrench Identification...

[Razorhunter]

I just received this exact USMC Armorers wrench, and I would just like to know ALL the tasks it can perform, and WHICH part of the wrench does WHICH task.
Here is the wrench. Working LEFT to RIGHT, can you guys tell me exactly what every part of the wrench does??? I know what most of it does, but there are a couple things I'm not sure about, such as the square hole in the interior next to the other two square notchouts. I also don't know what the 3 small interior holes are for on the right end of the wrench (in a straight line). Also not sure what the flat head screwdriver-like tip is for on the very far right end of the wrench, etc, etc, etc. If someone could work from LEFT to RIGHT, and tell me what EACH part of the wrench is used for, that would help me to be sure of everything.
I did not realize this wrench was so big before ordering it. It's made from 3/8" bar stock! Sweet! I hope this is all I will need for my JPVTAC installation. I'm pretty sure it is all I'll need, and quite honestly, I'm not even sure I'll need it, except for MAYBE removing the barrel nut.
Anyhow,

Thanks for your help guys. Here is the link:

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Photo...er+AR15+Wrench

[talbalos]

The "U" shaped slot with 3 pins at the 9.3. and 6 o'clock positions is a barrel nut wrench for removing and installing barrels.

The square hole in the interior is for a 1/2" socket drive--either a breaker bar or torque wrench. Primarily used to apply the appropriate torque to flash suppressors, barrel nuts or receiver extensions. Occasionally used with a breaker bar when removing stubborn flash suppressors, barrel nuts and receiver extensions.

The rectangular "slots" on either side: one is for the A2 flash suppressor and the other is for the wrench flats on the end of the rifle--either A1 or A2--Receiver Extension (AKA Buffer Tube)

The three holes are speed holes for faster turning.

The "hook" is for the retaing, or castle, nut used on collapsible stocks

The flat head screw driver blade is for the buttstock retaining screw on the A1 or A2 length rilfe buttstock.

[Razorhunter]

Let me ask you this,
I have tried to "dry-fit" the slot for the flash hider onto my Colt 6920's birdcage flash hider. It BARELY wants to fit on there, and honestly doesn't really fit at all.
Basically the Armorers wrench itself, needs to be a bit THINNER at this point, in order for the wrench to slide onto my flash hider. The armorers wrench is actually conflicting with the crush washer and the body of the flash hider itself.
has anyone else had this problem????
The armorers wrench BARELY slides onto the wrenching flats of my flash hider, and would probably "mar-up" the wrenching flats really badly IF I were to attempt to remove the flash hider at this time.
Is this correct, or what? Anyone else experienced this???? I can't believe this wrench is TOO THICK to remove the flash hider, when this birdcage style flash hider is so popular on so many different rifles. ????
Thanks for any help guys...

[talbalos]

I can't believe this wrench is TOO THICK to remove the flash hider, when this birdcage style flash hider is so popular on so many different rifles.

I can believe it.

This is the wrench I use:


I only use it for barrel nuts. In conjunction with a breaker bar or torque wrench. That is what it was primarily designed for. Everything else is secondary.

For A1, A2, Vortex or Phantom flash suppressors I use an open end wrench.

Same for the receiver extension.

An appropriately sized screwdriver works on the fixed rifle buttstock retaining screw.

I use a dedicated spanner wrench for the collapsible buttstock receiver extension.

[Snake RAH]

I have the Bushmaster wrench (the older one without the CAR stock wrench on the end), and it did the same thing with crush washers.

I since purchased the USGI combo tool pictured immediately above, and don't have the problem anymore. I keep it attached to the torque wrench, and use it both for barrel nut tightening, rifle receiver extensions, and flash suppressors.

If you don't want the too, then a common open 3/4" wrench will do the job.

[xenophobe]

I can believe it.

This is the wrench I use:

I hate those 'all in one' wrenches, and that's the one I prefer using.

If I built uppers with any regularity, I would have both a torque wrench and breaker bar modified for permanent use.

[Robb Jensen]

I just received this exact USMC Armorers wrench, and I would just like to know ALL the tasks it can perform, and WHICH part of the wrench does WHICH task.
Here is the wrench. Working LEFT to RIGHT, can you guys tell me exactly what every part of the wrench does??? I know what most of it does, but there are a couple things I'm not sure about, such as the square hole in the interior next to the other two square notchouts. I also don't know what the 3 small interior holes are for on the right end of the wrench (in a straight line). Also not sure what the flat head screwdriver-like tip is for on the very far right end of the wrench, etc, etc, etc. If someone could work from LEFT to RIGHT, and tell me what EACH part of the wrench is used for, that would help me to be sure of everything.
I did not realize this wrench was so big before ordering it. It's made from 3/8" bar stock! Sweet! I hope this is all I will need for my JPVTAC installation. I'm pretty sure it is all I'll need, and quite honestly, I'm not even sure I'll need it, except for MAYBE removing the barrel nut.
Anyhow,

Thanks for your help guys. Here is the link:

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Photo...er+AR15+Wrench

For JP V-TAC, Larue, YHM and standard (not lite rail) DD installs I use a PRI wrench. http://www.pri-mounts.com/mm5/mercha...ory_Code=TOOLS

It does an excellent job and is a great design.