Barrel Length for Suppressor Threading

[sudnit5]

I am about to purchase a Remington 700 and eventually I want to put a suppressor on it. I am wondering which option will be best for this situation...

I want to end up with a 20" barrel. Would it be better to go with the SPS Tactical 20" barrel and have it threaded or get the SPS Varmint with the 26" barrel and have it cut down and threaded. I don't know if there would be an advantage to either. Thanks.

[Robb Jensen]

Are you getting a .308?

[sudnit5]

Sorry, Yes it will be a .308

[Robb Jensen]

Sorry, Yes it will be a .308

For .308 either will do fine. Twist rates are the same between the two. Cutting and threading will probably cost more than just threading.

[lwhazmat5]

I am about to purchase a Remington 700 and eventually I want to put a suppressor on it. I am wondering which option will be best for this situation...

I want to end up with a 20" barrel. Would it be better to go with the SPS Tactical 20" barrel and have it threaded or get the SPS Varmint with the 26" barrel and have it cut down and threaded. I don't know if there would be an advantage to either. Thanks.

My only concern in the barrel length would be for long range (600+ Yards) shooting. If your buying your rifle to shoot sub 500 yard shooting than a 20" would be ok I guess? I know the 20" looks a lot more tacticool than the 26" heavy barrel, but if you are wanting a long range tack driver, stick with the length of the 26"!

[EasyRhino72]

Either way works. I have to disagree with the previous post though. Barrel lenght has little effect on accuracy. It does however affect velocity... that said a 20 inch barrel with a can on the end will have a higher velocity than just a 20 inch barrel (without the can). The point is that out to 1K you are fine with a 20 or even 18 inch barrel.

hope that helps. NM

[buggsb]

Either way works. I have to disagree with the previous post though. Barrel lenght has little effect on accuracy. It does however affect velocity... that said a 20 inch barrel with a can on the end will have a higher velocity than just a 20 inch barrel (without the can). The point is that out to 1K you are fine with a 20 or even 18 inch barrel.

hope that helps. NM

+1 In a .308, there is no real practical advantage to the longer barrel within 1,000 yds. Yes, there is some small reduction in velocity, but this doesn't necessarily have a negative impact on accuracy. In fact it has been shown that accuracy can actually increase as the barrel is shortened, at least to as short as 18". I'm currently experimenting with a Rem 700 barrel shortened to 16" to see what the minimum practical length is, which will still be accurate within the efective range of the .308.

[rsilvers]

I would say the practical min length is about 12-13 inches. I have a 16 on my AI.

All LE .308s should be 16 inches or less. They *N*E*V*E*R* shoot over 30 or so yards, and 16 inches is real good to about 500 yards.

[rsilvers]

Also, going from a 26 inch to 20 inch, you need 1 faster twist.

So if you wanted 1:10 before, then you want 1:9 now. If you wanted 1:12 before, you want 1:11 now.

This is to get the rpm back up from losing the 150 fps or so in muzzle velocity.

http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com...and-stability/

MV X 720/Twist Rate = RPM

[jpipes]

Regarding barrel length, I routinely get hits at 1000 with a 20 inch, 10-twist, barrel pushing 155 scenars at 2875. When I shoot with my can (and I rarely don't), I get a boost of approximately 30fps. Today's components, from the barrels to the powder and bullets, are good enough to get you there without any issue.

If you are shooting in "tactical" competitions, the majority of points are made within 800 yards, and maneuverability is more important than the added velocity from barrel length. For the next competition that I shoot in, I'll be running a 20 inch .308 with a brake rather than a can specifically for the maneuverability.

Lastly, here is a good video from the the gentleman that owns and runs Sniper's Hide: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15qj032UJ1I