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Thread: Tactical Tomahawks

  1. #41
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    Hey Bimmer...

    Yeah I got that first one you posted and added the p-cord myself. I like the other you found better though, as that handle is robust..nice!!
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  2. #42
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    It's worth noting that back in the day a tomahawk was very rarely a purpose built fighting tool and was rather a do-all piece of kit. Chopping small wood, clearing brush, pounding stakes, destroying material, chopping through walls to make improvised exits, digging holes and only occasionally bashing heads.

    In that vein, to justify the weight cost, it better do a lot of things quite well as a jack-of-all-trades type item. I've had a long time fascination with Native American warfare and own several historic hawks, both original and reproduction as well as modern tactical varieties from RMJ Forge. Both have their virtues but I'd think very hard about what you want in a tomahawk. They aren't cheap and they weight quite a bit.

    In the modern military context this means it should be capable of smashing cinder block/brick, chopping open vehicle frames as well as wood, clearing, digging and finally, if necessary, splitting some wigs. To do all of this effectively it's probably not going to be an insignificant investment. I would caution people away from sub-$100 tomahawks if they intend any serious use.

    What makes a good fighting hawk (light, quick) doesn't make a good functional hawk. Chopping/smashing with a very light-weight item is a recipe for fatigue so it should have some heft to it at the head. This means you're not going to be carrying it on a belt but rather a pack. Similarly the steel should be of sufficient quality that it's not going to be warped/damaged/twisted etc.

    While modern all-steel/full-tang designs are common they are also quite heavy. I think there was some virtue in a heavy, rugged axe head, with a wood handle that could be easily replaced but was still light weight. That said the full-tang designs typical of RMJ Forge are very well made using very hard and durable steel.

    They are excellent tools but they are not a one-trick pony. They also represent a significant financial investment as well as a significant weight cost if you're a dismount. Think about how you're going to use it before you buy and take the time to learn how to use it properly if you do. You're going to ditch it very quickly if its just dead weight that you rarely if ever have to use.
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  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gutshot John View Post
    While modern all-steel/full-tang designs are common they are also quite heavy. I think there was some virtue in a heavy, rugged axe head, with a wood handle that could be easily replaced but was still light weight. That said the full-tang designs typical of RMJ Forge are very well made using very hard and durable steel.
    Decent traditional forged tomahawks can be had for well under $100. Their weak point, compared to modern hawks like RMJ, is the handle. Fortunately, tomahawk handles literally grow on trees and can be manufactured using nothing more than a pocket knife or another hawk.

    Anyone qualified in the many uses of a tomahawk must surely be able to cut replacement handles as the need arises.
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  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gutshot John View Post
    ... it better do a lot of things quite well as a jack-of-all-trades type item.

    ...this means it should be capable of smashing cinder block/brick, chopping open vehicle frames as well as wood, clearing, digging and finally, if necessary, splitting some wigs.

    You're going to ditch it very quickly if its just dead weight that you rarely if ever have to use.
    This is my thinking, too. I'm really just looking for a nice upgrade from my $7.- Harbor Freight hatchet...

    As for smashing through block walls or tearing open cars, I have a couple jumbo crow bars that'll do that.

    And I probably wouldn't "carry" this thing much of anywhere — just take it car camping.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    As for smashing through block walls or tearing open cars, I have a couple jumbo crow bars that'll do that.
    If carrying a tomahawk is weight-cost prohibitive for many people, I doubt carrying a crowbar is a realistic alternative.

    Ever tried cutting through the A-post with a crowbar? Not the best tool for the job.

    And I probably wouldn't "carry" this thing much of anywhere — just take it car camping.
    Fair enough, you've determined your need and application and in that vein is a perfectly reasonable choice. If that's what you're going to do, I might also consider a pioneer kit (sledge, shovel, double-headed axe and/or a maul) in addition to your crowbar.
    Last edited by Gutshot John; 08-31-11 at 14:36.
    It is bad policy to fear the resentment of an enemy. -Ethan Allen

  6. #46
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    I absolutely hate the current trend in "heavy hawks". A Tomahawk is a lightweight tool that is what it is because of the light head on a lighter handle. You can use one to make a self bow from start right up to finish(if staying in the realm of functional). It is a tool that excells at precision hacks for the craftier parts of outdoorsmanship(is that even a word?).

    What the tactical community has embraced as a hawk should better be described as a hatchet. It is heavy and is a better workhorse but has none of the benifits of a hawk(ever tried to make a bow out of a hatched?). In the effort to make the hawk stronger we now make even the handle of the hawk out of metal which kills the natural snappy cuts that it makes because of the added weight. Basically the tacticool community calls a hatchet a hawk simply because hawks have a better history and it seem cooler.

    BTW I only use the selfbow example because it is a good one. The same applies to most of the more intricate wodden tools that using a hawk(or in many cases a propper machete like a parang) excels at.
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  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post



    Man that thing looks like all kinds of fail. The funky ridges/serrations on the spike will make it hang up in anything you stick (as if long spikes weren't bad enough about that), and what's that notch on the underside of the base of the chopping blade? A bottle opener? Looks more like something to get caught on stuff.

    To me, a hammer poll is far more utilitarian than any kind of spike, and works just fine for smashing unarmored heads. Something like a Cold Steel trail hawk is more like what a true tomahawk should be:



    It's lightweight, utilitarian, and will handle pretty much anything you need. It's also $22. If you break the handle, make a new one. But you'll get far more use out of the hammer poll than you ever will out of a spike. Spikes evolved because people were wearing steel helmets. How many bad guys do you see wearing pig-faced bascinets these days?
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  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gutshot John View Post
    I might also consider a pioneer kit (sledge, shovel, double-headed axe and/or a maul) in addition to your crowbar.
    Good point. That is: different sized tomahawk- or axe-like tools excel at different tasks.

    Felling trees? I'd take a big, heavy, long handled axe. Double bitted for extra heft and twice the edge life.

    Splitting logs? Big old maul. Beats the heck out of a wedge and sledgehammer.

    Fitting a log cabin? Long handled single bitted axe, medium weight. Need to be able to make big cuts, but with some finesse.

    3 day backpacking trip? Hatchet or camp axe.

    Busting heads and raising hell? TOMAHAWK! (Spaceships, fairies, etc.)
    Oh no, not another lube thread! Read this first: Lubrication 101.

  9. #49
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    I'd really caution you away from cold steel. Quality ain't there. I've never been happy with any of their products.

    That said I'd agree with the assessment about the other blade...fail.
    It is bad policy to fear the resentment of an enemy. -Ethan Allen

  10. #50
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    Good reading . Thanks guys .

    I really need a nice small hatchet for camping to go in my pack personally . Any suggestions on that ?

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