I know I should tighten the castle nut to 40 in lbs but my wrench doesn't allow for use of a torque wrench. So after the nut is hand tight...how much more do I have to tighten it approximately with the wrench? 1/4 turn 1/8 turn?
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I know I should tighten the castle nut to 40 in lbs but my wrench doesn't allow for use of a torque wrench. So after the nut is hand tight...how much more do I have to tighten it approximately with the wrench? 1/4 turn 1/8 turn?
I don't use a torque wrench and just go by my Mk1 Mod1 'feel o'meter'. Just as tight as I can get it by hand and making sure that the receiver extension doesn't spin within the receiver which will result in a canted stock. Then I stake the end plate into the castle nut.
My new favorite castle nut wrench is the HammerHead Tool that I bought at the SHOT show. It works very well at getting through staking quite easily. The only time I notice I can't tighten a castle nut is on Magpul ASAP plates because of the bar. The Hammer Head Tool engages all four slots in the castle nut and you use both hands on the wrench. Good design.
http://www.hammerheadrifletool.com
Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)
Thanks for the info. The Hammerhead looks great and I might get one in the future but for now I already ordered Gear Sector's tool. It seems sturdy enough for just tightening the Castle Nut.
Last edited by Outlander Systems; 03-02-10 at 10:28.
Note: That Hammer head tool he linked to has a 3/8" square drive stamped into the center for use with a TQ wrench. I would buy that tool and use a TQ wrench. If you don't own one, ask your pals.... most guys that have ever rebuilt any sort of engine have at least one in the toolbox. I have 7If you need to borrow one, I'll ship you mine as long as you promise to ship it back in a timely fashion.
I save money using AMSOIL full synthetic lubricants. Do you?
http://www.lubedealer.com/DiscountPowerParts/home.aspx
In reality you don't need a torque wrench. Apply some anti-seize and get the nut snug, then apply a little more umph. It'll be fine. Just make sure that you stake it good.
Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms
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Master Armorer/R&D at SIONICS Weapon Systems- http://sionicsweaponsystems.com
what advantage does the hammerhead have over the multitool?
I have the multitool and it works just fine for me.
Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SemperParatusArms/
Semper Paratus Arms AR15 Armorer Course http://www.semperparatusarms.com/cou...-registration/
M4C Misc. Training and Course Announcements- http://www.m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?f=141
Master Armorer/R&D at SIONICS Weapon Systems- http://sionicsweaponsystems.com
Thanks for the offer, bro.
I'm straight, but I wouldn't mind a recommendation for a decent one solely dedicated to the AR toolbox.
My issue is a lack of self-confidence. I've managed to strip way too many threads, and have a serious issue with "it's tight enough, now let's just tighten it a little more". My brother has an optic permanently attached to his XM17 that I installed for him. It will not come off. I've stripped the hex screws to hell and back, trying to get it off. Until he gets a new optic, he's stuck with it. One of the four screws is completely missing, since I managed to shear the head off trying to remove it. No, I didn't use red loctite...
The torque wrench's appeal, to my overtightening ass, is that I can objectively determine "propper" mounting. In my case, adding a tool to the toolbox may assist in operator inexperience.
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