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SPECS:
–– 14.5 ADCO CMV CL 1/7 carbine gas (I know, I know) A2 FH...soon to be Surefire MB556AR brake
–– DD Omega 12.0 w/ DD low pro GB
–– CMMG lower w/ RRA parts, Magpul MOE grip and trigger gaurd
–– Magpul MOE stock
–– Magpul MBUS front and rear
I did a mock up of a 12" Omega and a Noveske/Vltor gas block on my Afghan barrel. The fit was too tight for my comfort. As I recall, the top of the rail wasn't the big issue, the area near the pin and set screw was really close to the bottom rail. I wish I had taken a picture. Fit was perfect with a Lite rail, plenty of room.
Contact between the gas block and barrel will cause erratic vibration which will in turn cause weird accuracy. You might not see it at 25yds but you sure as hell will see it at 200yds+. That 10-15 thousands clearance between the gas block and rail/FF tube seems okay until you actually shoot the rifle at some distance.
Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)
I'm may be wrong, but it seems like it has decent clearance to prevent contact.
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Can you make the rail smack into the gas block? I'll bet I can.
There's a reason why RISII and Lite Rails have much bigger and stronger bolts holding the rails in place.
It's because people like me who run shit very hard and have broken, bent stuff.
I wouldn't trust an Omega rail mounted with it's four small allen screws to keep the rail from hitting the gas block when the gun is run hard. The Omega is a fine rail for what it is. It wasn't meant to cover a gas block.
Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)
Yeah, I'm sure I could if I tried, but I think I could make any full float hit if I tried hard enough.......that's why I'm still not 100% sold on any of them yet.......
Last edited by 01tundra; 03-04-10 at 16:25.
I took a stab at shaving my FSB over the weekend and decided to switch to a DD Lite 10.0. Not sure if I've taken it down far enough yet, guess I'll find out when the Lite arrives and break out the grinder again if need be. I ended up taking about 1/8" off the taper pins to get them to match the new profile.
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