DD Lite 7.0 Rail...

[Razorhunter]

Nevermind,
I know what they are now. Sweet deal, glad you mentioned them, as they could come in handy.
I'm assuming they are basically shim stock, cut into pieces specifically designed for this application...

[Robb Jensen]

Nevermind,
I know what they are now. Sweet deal, glad you mentioned them, as they could come in handy.
I'm assuming they are basically shim stock, cut into pieces specifically designed for this application...

Exactly, I rarely ever need them but they are very handy.

[Stickman]

Paul.

Sounds like GotM4 took care of the questions. Make sure you take some pictures when you are done!

[Razorhunter]

Ok guys,
I got my flash hider off, as well as the FSB and stock bbl nut too. Damn those Colt bbl nuts are TIGHT. Thought I was going to break my arm for a while there, but I finally got it off with the breaker bar.
Anyhow, I wanted to ask a couple things before I finish the install tomorrow.

1. I slid the DD "bolt up plate" onto the bbl before anything else (per instructions). I then slid on the new DD bbl nut, and proceeded to finger tighten it. I then noticed that the bbl nut had not even began to engage the bolt up plate, and I can see that it's going to take a LOT of tightening down of that new DD bbl nut, for it to begin to engage the bolt up plate.
Is this correct? I mean, I know the new DD bbl nut has got to be tightened down REAL tight, but I wouldn't have thought the bolt up plate would be loose like this, even after the bbl nut had been finger tightened real good. As stated, it's going to take a LOT of tightening of the nut for it to begin to engage the DD bolt up plate... Anyone else experienced this?

2. Is there any need at all, to put any type of grease or anti-seize on the threads before I install the bbl nut? I know there are other types of rails that call for this, and I know the Bushmaster Factory Armorers Course book calls for it too, when one is installing the factory bbl nut onto the receiver. Bushmaster refers to it as "Molybdenum Grease" or something? like that, which apparently helps with galling, and possibly acts like an anti-seize? Dunno, but I DO know other companies sometimes call for it, and even though DD does not mention it with the Lite Rail instructions, I thought I'd check.
I probably over-engineer things at times, but this is my first armorer work, and I want to make sure nothing is overlooked...

[Stickman]

The plate will rotate even when tight, which allows for simple installation and alignment of the gas tube. Don't base the barrel nut tightness off the plate.

I always use moly when I install a barrel nut. I've got a pint of the stuff that some of my military armorer friends gave me, and that will last me 6 life times. It doesn't take much.

If I missed part of your question, I'm running on 2 hours of sleep, and I'll try to catch up with the thread in the morning. IM or email me if you need anything, or you can always email or IM Daniel Defense.

[Razorhunter]

The plate will rotate even when tight, which allows for simple installation and alignment of the gas tube.
.

So what the hell keeps the rail from rotating and moving on me, when the installation is complete?????????



Also,
What product name is this "moly" sold under, so I can purchase my own somewhere???? I assume MSC/McMaster Carr/etc would have it, if I can just find out what it's called....

[GunLovinTexan]

Those nifty little screws

moly grease is picked up at most automotive stores. mine came from autozone.

the stuff i used last is under the name Coastal. Its in a silver and black can.

Coastal premium Moly EP GREASE.


Rob

[rob_s]

While this often is a point of some contention, I prefer to use the "correct" moly that is available from Bushmaster over that which you get at the auto parts places.

http://bushmaster.com/shopping/lowers/ms-100.asp