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Thread: Armorers-Tool Questions....

  1. #1
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    Armorers-Tool Questions....

    What kind of torque wrenches do you Armorers generally use? Cheapos, or quality wrenches???
    I realize a top of the line wrench is probably not necessary, and many of you may not even use a torque wrench, but I'm also a tool junkie, and I'd like to have one for several uses, but especially for AR work, IF they are somewhat useful.
    Is a torque wrench something you Armorers use often, and find necessary???

    Regardless of whether they are needed or not, I would like to know what is the torque rating one should buy??? 100 ft/lbs max wrench??


    Second little issue. What do you guys use for removing FSB taper pins? Brass punches, concave punches (tip of punch is curved INWARD thus creating a nice inverted bowl shape, which grasps the domed shape of the taper pin quite well), OR do you guys just use plain ol regular punches????

    I would like to post a few more Armorer questions in the future as well, and I thank you guys!

  2. #2
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    My torque wrench is a Craftsman one. I think it goes up to 100 ft/lbs. It is the kind that you set the torque in the handle.

    When putting a barrel on, the main critical torque you need is a minimum of 30 ft/lbs. After I reach 30 ft/lbs, I begin to align the scallop or holes in the barrel nut with the gas tube hole in the upper. One upper I had with a new LaRue went on at a hair over 30 ft/lbs, and the hole in the barrel nut was in alignment. I hate it when I have to lean on a wrench to get that last little bit to make everything line up. The more torque, the greater chance the FSB will cause excessive windage.

    The concave center punches are neat, but I can't find them in my AO. Sully brought some to class, and I actually chipped a brand new one trying to remove the taper pins. He usually keeps spares on hand for such.

    I end up using regular punches myself. The barrel needs to be nice and steady, and depending on whose upper, one or two taps will get the pins moving.
    Last edited by Snake RAH; 04-25-07 at 00:41. Reason: clarification
    Nemo me impune lacessit

  3. #3
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    Punches?
    We don't need no stinking punches...





    Doesn't everybody have one of these?
    Randall Rausch
    AR15 Barrel Guru
    California Precision Rifle Club founding member

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    Quote Originally Posted by AR15barrels View Post
    Punches?
    We don't need no stinking punches...

    Doesn't everybody have one of these?



    If I had your shop and machining capabilities.......yes, I’d have one too! But for now my Stanley nail set will do.
    “A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu


    http://quibphotography.com/

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    I get whatever happens to be in the Brownell's AR15 tool kit. But Im not paying for my tools............

    As far a punches, I use whatever happens to be closest. But thats because If Im removing the FSB its going in the trash, so I dont have to worry about good looking pins.
    Life is too short to deal with Blonde women, or carbine barrels over 10.5 inches

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    I would strongly suggest getting yourself a copy of the M16A2 5.56MM Rifle Manual - U.S. Marine Corps Technical Manual. Yes, it's written like most military manuals (intended for a 3rd grade reading level, but consequently difficult to understand for anyone beyond that) but it's chock full of just about anything you'd need to know to work on an AR.

    In reading through this you can get a better idea of what sort of tools you may need.

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    I've got several manuals, and I'm thinking I've got the one you mention as well.
    I like to hear what others here are using though, as many times there are other unconventional methods and tools being used that interest me.
    One prime example is AR15Barrels method shown above.

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this a Kurt milling vise (or similar) being used to press the pins out?

    What is the weird shaped socket head cap screw like that for? Is it ground off, to accept the taper pin or what???
    Thanks for posting...

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    Armorer Tool Question

    Mr. Cataldo, we use a lowest bid dial torque wrench that is calibrated once a year. If you spring for a Snap On or Mac, the dealer can have it calibrated for you for a fee. As far as sight base pins I use a large (3/8) drift pin to start the pins moving then drop down to a smaller punch to drive them out.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Cataldo View Post
    What is the weird shaped socket head cap screw like that for? Is it ground off, to accept the taper pin or what???
    Thanks for posting...
    The angle of the allen head screw is ground to match the profile of the FSB, the right side of the FSB is set against the allen head screw (the hollow end covering the large end of the taper pin). The hex hole in the screw gives the taper pin a place to go as it's pushed out a little from the left side. Then you can remove the bbl from the fixture and tap the pins out easily with very little effort.

    The tool that Randall gave me works very well.
    I've been wanting to make a similar type tool but bigger so that it would work on a 1 ton Arbor press for AR taper pins and SiGARMS (milled slide models) for 220s, 226s, 229s firing pin retaining pins (which are a muther F'er to get out).
    Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
    Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotm4 View Post
    I've been wanting to make a similar type tool but bigger so that it would work on a 1 ton Arbor press for AR taper pins and SiGARMS (milled slide models) for 220s, 226s, 229s firing pin retaining pins (which are a muther F'er to get out).
    Ive never had a problem getting the pins in or out on a 229.

    I do use a press to insert the inner and outer HD pins on 228s.
    Life is too short to deal with Blonde women, or carbine barrels over 10.5 inches

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