Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 5678 LastLast
Results 61 to 70 of 71

Thread: Customization....am I missing something?

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Upstate SC
    Posts
    1,365
    Feedback Score
    37 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    Most commercial guns (like the S&W youe want) are over gassed. This is why people upgrade the buffer from what the factory installs.C4
    I'm a S&W MP15T owner and I'm curious about the above comment.
    Over gassed? This is the part where I'm the least knowledgable about the AR platform. What buffer do you think is in my gun from the factory? How can I tell? Should I change it even if it has ran fine for 1,500 plus rounds?


    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    The S&W line of AR's are are good choice as an entry level model IMHO. They do a lot of things well, but could do somethings better.
    C4
    Can you elaborate on this a little?
    I'm already aware of the 1:9 twist rate that been discussed to death here and I've seen "The Chart".

    I'd just like to know what some think the limitations or weaknesses of this rifle are.

    Thanks

    Scoby
    Last edited by Scoby; 03-29-10 at 21:54.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,949
    Feedback Score
    31 (97%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Maddog60 View Post
    Guys why add a light? I know so you can see that's a given but that also allows bad guys to see you.Just query.
    Have you ever fired at stationary targets at night . It's even harder when they are moving targets and shooting back.
    Last edited by Caeser25; 03-29-10 at 22:02.
    I must study politics and war, that our sons may have liberty to study mathematics and philosophy. - John Adams

    The AK guys are all about the reach around. - Garand Thumb.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    VA/OH
    Posts
    29,630
    Feedback Score
    33 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Maddog60 View Post
    Thanks for ur wisdom I do have NV and will use that instead of a bright light to each's own thanks for ur input I'm done now

    Which NV device do you have? How much time do you have with it in a shoot house??



    C4

  4. #64
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    VA/OH
    Posts
    29,630
    Feedback Score
    33 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Scoby View Post
    I'm a S&W MP15T owner and I'm curious about the above comment.
    Over gassed? This is the part where I'm the least knowledgable about the AR platform. What buffer do you think is in my gun from the factory? How can I tell? Should I change it even if it has ran fine for 1,500 plus rounds?
    Mil-Spec GP on a 14.5" barrel is .063. So if you have a 16" barrel then you should have something around .060-.061. Your gun could have anything from .068 to .074 (depending on how old it is).

    Yes a gun that is over gassed will run. It is beating itself to death though and can/will cause pre-mature breaking and wearing of parts.

    A S&W AR's come with a car buffer. You can tell by the weight and the fact that it has no markings on it.




    Can you elaborate on this a little?
    I'm already aware of the 1:9 twist rate that been discussed to death here and I've seen "The Chart".

    I'd just like to know what some think the limitations or weaknesses of this rifle are.

    Thanks

    Scoby
    They could use better barrel steel, HP/MP each barrel. Add H buffers and use a smaller gas ports. Switch to 1/7 twist.


    C4
    Last edited by C4IGrant; 03-29-10 at 22:36.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Upstate SC
    Posts
    1,365
    Feedback Score
    37 (100%)
    Thanks C4IGrant. Learning has occured as they say.

    Scoby

  6. #66
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Humboldt County, CA
    Posts
    2,056
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVAN View Post
    That is certainly an option, but I don't want my hand anywhere near the gas block/FS while shooting a lot. Which is learned from shooting a lot. You can't possibly know this sort of thing by sheer intuition.
    I've seen others say this, but I still don't understand...

    In any real world HD or SHTF situation, I imagine myself using the flashlight to flash targets before shooting.
    Once the shooting starts, then I'm probably not using my flashlight very much.
    If it's dark enough that I need a light to ID targets, then I'm probably not shooting enough to get the FSB hot, anyway.

    Admittedly, I'm a civilian, and I don't shoot a lot.

    Of course I can understand that the guys who kick in doors for a living would see things differently, and I can understand that constantly shooting in competition or in carbine courses would be different, but for normal folks like me (and the OP), I don't see a problem putting a flashlight out by the FSB.
    Please advise (I'm here to learn).

    In any case, you're right, he could also attach a piece of rail to the regular handguard to mount a flashlight. That would also be a lot less expensive and less complication than a complete railed handguard.

    Bimmer

  7. #67
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Humboldt County, CA
    Posts
    2,056
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Killjoy View Post
    The forend rail greatly simplifies attaching these accessories, particularly lights. Most other light-attaching methods are mediocre at best and not very strong attachment points.
    I'm not dumb, but I'm still confused...

    How strong does a light attachment really need to be?

    My sense is that the weak point in most light attachments is where the (potentially plastic) mount fits to the rail, or where the (potentially plastic) body of the light fits the mount, not where the rail attaches to the gun.

    It also occurs to me that any blow which would break a light mount would probably break the light itself.

    I've got a TLR-1 mounted to a piece of rail. I worry about smashing the rail, and I worry about ripping the light off the rail (the Streamlight insert is plastic), but I don't worry about ripping the rail off my gun.

    Teach me,

    Bimmer

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Western Washington
    Posts
    125
    Feedback Score
    0
    A light attachment needs to be as strong as can be, as should anything attached to the firearm.

    Even just at the range, I tend to run around a little bit and bump into barricades, slam the gun into the ground, and then it rattles around in my trunk for an hour or so on the way home.

    Furthermore, why would you NOT want it as strong as possible? The benefit of a stronger part/mount far outweighs whatever perceived benefit one gets from running a weaker mount.

    This is NOT to say that a rail section mounted to standard, plastic handguards, does not have it's use, as it most emphatically does.

    However, the OP asked about a rail system that would be included with a firearm of his choosing.

    We don't NEED any of these things. I, personally, will be running any firearm, AR or not, with at LEAST a white light, probably of the Surefire brand.

    I consider a white light as invaluable as the ammunition for the gun. As far as expense goes... One can find a Surefire G2 nitrolon for sub-$60, and a mount can be had for about $45 or cheaper. Less than $100 for what I consider a must-have is nothing in this wonderful world of firearms.


    T further address the OP's concern and original questions...

    The proper staking of components on your firearm is not an "upgrade," it is a necessity. It also really won't cost you anything, and if you buy from a reputable manufacturer, it will be done for you.

    As far as replacing the BCG... I don't know, as I bought quality the first time.

    Buffer? Same thing. Running a heavy buffer in a mid-length gas system seems to be acceptable, and it works. Flawlessly. For 1700 rnds so far.


    Everything you've stated is STRICTLY user preference. I bought a VLTOR EMOD stock because I like the way it feels, love the cheekweld, and like the way it balances the gun. I bought a Magpul MIAD grip because I hate the finger bump on a standard A2, like the adjustable backstrap, and like the subtle stippling. I don't have any problem with the infamous gap, so I don't worry about it. I boyght an Aimpoint Micro H-1 because I wear glasses, and I'll be damned if it isn't easier to get good, effective hits with a shiny red dot over what I want to shoot. I added a Larue 12 inch handguard because I have long arms, and my preferred grip has my support hand waaaaay out front, which is very hard to do with a standard 9 inch mid length handguard.


    It's ALL user preference. If you love the finger bump, love the plastic hanguards, love the iron sights, and hate white lights, don't let anyone tell you different (although, really, you should get a light!).
    "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats."
    H.L. Mencken


    "Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool, or a coward. Whoever cannot take care of himself without that law is both. For a wounded man shall say to his assailant; If I live, I will kill you. If I die, you are forgiven." Such is the rule of Honor." -Omertà

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    171
    Feedback Score
    0
    A light attachment needs to be as strong as can be, as should anything attached to the firearm.

    Even just at the range, I tend to run around a little bit and bump into barricades, slam the gun into the ground, and then it rattles around in my trunk for an hour or so on the way home.

    Furthermore, why would you NOT want it as strong as possible? The benefit of a stronger part/mount far outweighs whatever perceived benefit one gets from running a weaker mount.

    This is NOT to say that a rail section mounted to standard, plastic handguards, does not have it's use, as it most emphatically does.

    However, the OP asked about a rail system that would be included with a firearm of his choosing.

    We don't NEED any of these things. I, personally, will be running any firearm, AR or not, with at LEAST a white light, probably of the Surefire brand.

    I consider a white light as invaluable as the ammunition for the gun. As far as expense goes... One can find a Surefire G2 nitrolon for sub-$60, and a mount can be had for about $45 or cheaper. Less than $100 for what I consider a must-have is nothing in this wonderful world of firearms.
    Couldn't have said it better, thanks!

    Also, you don't want your light to snap off at an inopportune moment, leaving you with a daylight-only weapon. I work for a police department, where officers depend on their equipment to function, and the gear often takes a heavy toll. Running through buildings or the woods with your patrol rifle, one often runs into objects that may test the ruggedness of your rifle. Doorframes, branches, concrete walls, climbing over fences, not to mention tripping and falling, all conspire to test the integrity of your rifle and associated equipment. You wouldn't want to be out on a search for a dangerous suspect, go over a chain-link fence, then realize your light fell off in the process. The picatinny rail system, while not invulnerable, provides a very solid anchoring platform for your gear, and has the benefit of being universal and tested to destruction by our armed forces.
    The opinions expressed on this board are mine and mine alone. They do not represent any departments or organizations I may be a member of.


    "Fallacies do not cease to be fallacies because they become fashions." - ILN, 4/19/30

    "He is a very shallow critic who cannot see an eternal rebel in the heart of a conservative." - Varied Types

    G.K. Chesterton

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    NoVA
    Posts
    5,963
    Feedback Score
    12 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    I've seen others say this, but I still don't understand...

    In any real world HD or SHTF situation, I imagine myself using the flashlight to flash targets before shooting.
    Once the shooting starts, then I'm probably not using my flashlight very much.
    If it's dark enough that I need a light to ID targets, then I'm probably not shooting enough to get the FSB hot, anyway.

    Admittedly, I'm a civilian, and I don't shoot a lot.

    Of course I can understand that the guys who kick in doors for a living would see things differently, and I can understand that constantly shooting in competition or in carbine courses would be different, but for normal folks like me (and the OP), I don't see a problem putting a flashlight out by the FSB.
    Please advise (I'm here to learn).

    In any case, you're right, he could also attach a piece of rail to the regular handguard to mount a flashlight. That would also be a lot less expensive and less complication than a complete railed handguard.

    Bimmer
    Well, I don't just attach an item to a carbine and call it "good". I shoot with it, use it, see how it works, and then declare to myself that it works for my purposes. If I am using the carbine to vet the setup, the gas block will be getting hot. If I have unknown dark rooms to clear while practicing, or firing an iteration on a stationary line in a low light setting I have no idea at what point I will need the light, so my hand/thumb will need to be in close proximity until such time as "stand easy on the line" is called, or "all clear" is called.

    You're right that in the real civilian moment the gas block probably won't be hot, and maybe I'll only need to fire two rounds -- then again, maybe it will be more and without gloves.

    So I make the choices I make, and know precisely what I want to do with my guns so that they work for training, HD, plinking or whatever. I rarely pick the easy or cheap method because those usually involve tradeoffs that don't work, or introduce compromises that I am not comfortable with.

    Why buy a mount at all? I mean you are getting into the "must have it", "gotta change it" mindset with that sort of talk. Just duct tape the light to the handguards, or use hose clamps. I'm sure you can see the fallacy of getting too KISS in your applications??

    Again, I've tried many AR accessories and know just about what I want without having to feel comfortable by someone else's review of my stuff. I only offer my perspective as a learning tool, not as guidance for what others should buy or use. I think I have explained that pretty clearly.

Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 5678 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •