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Thread: Grease or Oil?

  1. #1
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    Grease or Oil?

    Back in about 1983, a Sgt Maj, USMC Ret. told me that oil was a rust preventative and grease was a lubricant. Granted, he fought in the days of Garands and M14's, but would some type of high temp grease be a better lube for our M4's? Seems like it would stay put better than oil and maybe last longer.

    Anybody ever tried this? If it's a no-go, why? If so, what works?

    Also, is there a non-toxic grease out there (I love Slip2000 because it won't kill my liver).

  2. #2
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    CLP (oil) is all you need on the AR. don't use grease.

  3. #3
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    Grease on the carrier would severely retard the movement of the carrier within the receiver, thereby causing malfunctions.
    Randall Rausch
    AR15 Barrel Guru
    California Precision Rifle Club founding member

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashooter View Post
    Also, is there a non-toxic grease out there (I love Slip2000 because it won't kill my liver).
    TW25B

    Many options to choose from, see here.

    The TW25B grease works well in my Glock, but honestly I have yet to try it in an AR.

    Derek
    An evil soul wields an evil sword.

  5. #5
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    I put a little Militec grease on the bolt lugs and on the outside of the carrier body. FP-10 goes on the rest of the areas.
    My carbine only sees range use and hasn't had any problems.

  6. #6
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    Oil

    Using grease is a Bad Idea (TM) on the AR platform. The hot gas being blown back into the action will cook your oil off and you will need to apply more of oil, thus washing some of the carbon off and lubing the moving parts for a while.

    Grease on the other hand will stay in place, this is where it gets bad as some of the aforementioned hot gas is carrying carbon particles. These partcles stick in the grease, which does not burn off/ run off, and you start manufacturing lapping compound in the action of your rifle. Once you have done this, every movement of your AR's action is going grind-grind-grind and eating hard surface treatments away and getting into the chewy center of the steel.

    So stick with a good oil and apply as needed, or when you think about it cause you don't want to be 'that guy' on the firing line when your gun goes bang - bang-click.

  7. #7
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    Nathan,

    That makes sense. I'll probably just stick with Slip2000. Never had a problem with it, other than it burns/blows off and has to be reapplied just like everything else.

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    Thumbs up

    xxxxx
    Last edited by PALADIN-hgwt; 07-10-09 at 00:09.

  9. #9
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    I've only used oils like CLP and FP-10 on my ARs, primarily because "if it's not broken, don't fix it," but also because people who know a lot more than I do have always recommended oils.

    I do use TW25B on pistols (have done so for more than a decade) or Kel-Lube, depending on the gun.

    I do have a buddy who has done multiple contracts in Iraq over that last few years who was using TW25B grease on his issued M4gery. Never having been in that harsh environment, I have to defer to his experience.

    Here in Indiana, wet with FP-10 (or something similar) works great, from well below zero to hot and humid.

  10. #10
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    I have used CLP until recently. I switched to Mobil 1 fully syntchetic motor oil. No malfunctions reported and its it seems (to me) there is less carbon deposit inside.

    YMMV.

    Paul

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