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Thread: Roll-Pin punch support.

  1. #1
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    Roll-Pin punch support.


    Once, many moons ago, I broke one of the tabs off on the lower receiver that helps hold the trigger guard in place. I was wondering if someone made a block vise or support to help keep this from happening again. I have since jerry-rigged something together out of a 4x4 piece of wood hole holes drill in it but I was looking for a more professional look.

    Thanks to all that have input.

    Thanks,
    MCASSgt New River
    Saiga S12 is my new Homeland Defense weapon.

  2. #2
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    I think a hard resilient type of plastic is the best thing to make blocks from. A cutting board would be an easily available example of such material and probably of good thickness for your needs.

  3. #3
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    Damn good question! Is there a better way to do this? When I installed my lpk this is the only part that came out less than desirable. My roll pin mushroomed a little and th finish was a little mangled. Why in the hell does that have to be so bloody tight. Seriously uncool. It was like Ron Jeremy... nevermind.
    "Oh, its a wonderful day! My sun is shining, my birds are chirping, my humongous chicken defeated Elmo." Huxley

  4. #4
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    Delrin would not be a bad material to mfg a block from. I've always used a block of wood with success, and have suggested this in the past.
    Last edited by Quib; 07-15-10 at 15:12.
    “A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu


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  5. #5
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    Block of wood here too. The trick I've used is support the trigger guard when getting the roll pin started into the first tab. Placing the wood under the bottom tab is the way to break a tab off.

  6. #6
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    I've had luck by locking the pivot detent in place at the front of the triggerguard, then swinging the rear of the triggerguard in place.

    With the rear of the triggerguard lined up, and supporting the bottom ear on a block of wood, I tap the roll pin in place.

    Utilizing this method, the bottom triggerguard ear has support from the block of wood, preventing it from snapping off. The top ear is supported by the triggerguard itself, preventing it from snapping off.
    “A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu


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  7. #7
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    I've used a few LPKs that included spiral roll pins fro the trigger guard. These install alot easier, a little oil and they just tap right in.

  8. #8
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    LOL. I just this minute got done doing exactly that - Magpul trigger guard on my new Noveske. I laid the ears on a ream of 3-hole paper with the roll pin centered over one of the holes and drove it out with a regular 1/8 inch steel punch. In retrospect, I highly recommend using a roll-pin punch so ensure that the punch is centered on the pin and not overlapping onto the trigger guard ear.

    For putting the pin back in, I oiled it up with CLP and tapped on it with a brass hammer (again supported on that ream of paper) while the 1/8 inch steel punch was inserted from below to make sure the ears and hole in the trigger guard were aligned. After I was sure the pin was partly in the trigger guard, I drove it the rest of the way with a C-clamp. That is very effective, far less scary and less marring.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quib View Post
    I've had luck by locking the pivot detent in place at the front of the triggerguard, then swinging the rear of the triggerguard in place.

    With the rear of the triggerguard lined up, and supporting the bottom ear on a block of wood, I tap the roll pin in place.
    And a little grease or oil helps.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5pins View Post
    And a little grease or oil helps.
    Yes Sir....sure can't hurt.
    “A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu


    http://quibphotography.com/

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