My incredibly expensive solution that has worked for near 60 builds is a 1" wide piece of 1/2" osb wrapped in duct tape- using the same method quib does.
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My incredibly expensive solution that has worked for near 60 builds is a 1" wide piece of 1/2" osb wrapped in duct tape- using the same method quib does.
“A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu
http://quibphotography.com/
Interesting. I've never oiled one. But I move the block a little over so that the guard is resting on it. I do this because of the fact that there is a little play between the guard and the two tabs. Using the bottom tab on the block can cause compression between the two tabs.
I'm basically tackling one tab at a time. The first tab is impact neutral with the guard on the block under it, and then I move the block behind the bottom tab when the pin gets there. By then, you're pretty much home free.
Last edited by markm; 07-15-10 at 23:00.
A paperback book, folded back to the proper page, works for me.
I use the same procedure Quib.
As a note it also helps to roll the leading edge of some of the roll pins that are sharp or square.This aids in getting the pin started and snag free install.As far as lube on the pin,I use a bit of grease on pretty much everything going into the lower on initial assembly.
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“A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu
http://quibphotography.com/
“A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu
http://quibphotography.com/
I've found squeezing the pins in with needlenose pliers easier than hammering them in. Thats how I've built the last few lowers.
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