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Thread: Roll-Pin punch support.

  1. #21
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    I put a little oil on the pin and I use a roll pin punch. I start the pin in the hole and just as it gets flush I install the trigger guard. I usually lock the lower in a vise using a vise block. Never had any problems.



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  2. #22
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    Split pins are the devil's work. That's why I only use RRA kits or Daniel Defense since they come with a Magpul trigger guard.

  3. #23
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    Just a little update:

    #1 Thanks for all the help and suggestions from everyone!!

    #2 I put a few drops of CLP on the lower and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Then using the appropiate pin-punchs the roll pin slide out with "MINIMAL" effort...again thanks to the suggestions found here.

    #3 The wood block, with hole drilled, method RULEZ!!

    Respectfully,
    MCASSgt New River
    Saiga S12 is my new Homeland Defense weapon.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    ...I start the pin in the hole and just as it gets flush I install the trigger guard. ...
    I install the trigger guard before I start the pin. In my mind that gives added support to the tab you are driving the pin through. I support the tab on the other side with a standard nylon bench block. I also oil the roll pin before starting it.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCASSgt New River View Post

    #3 The wood block, with hole drilled, method RULEZ!!

    Respectfully,
    MCASSgt New River
    Glad to hear you found that tip useful.
    “A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu


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  6. #26
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    I use the spine of some magazines. Nothing gets damaged or bent. Bit quicker than making a jig, too.
    Last edited by stifled; 07-23-10 at 12:36.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quib View Post
    I've had luck by locking the pivot detent in place at the front of the triggerguard, then swinging the rear of the triggerguard in place.

    With the rear of the triggerguard lined up, and supporting the bottom ear on a block of wood, I tap the roll pin in place.

    Utilizing this method, the bottom triggerguard ear has support from the block of wood, preventing it from snapping off. The top ear is supported by the triggerguard itself, preventing it from snapping off.
    Exactly how I did it too. I did oil it a bit before starting, figured it couldn't hurt. Seemed to work fine.

  8. #28
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    Ill put this up here too....

    Quote Originally Posted by motorwerks View Post
    I should one of these days make a how I make things easy thread.....

    For my (Trigger guard, and bolt catch)Roll pins I chuck them up in my drill one end at a time, and I take a little emery cloth to them. I machine just a little off at a time doing both ends and then trying it in my lower. I get them to the point that they are kind of tight, but loose enough I can push them in with the side of a Screwdriver handle. I have about 5000 rounds down range through my own 4 guns and a few others in friends guns that have never had a problem.

    Oh and I have 2 of each of the magpul trigger guards....... no difference.
    I missed it in here but I use a little oil too and I have a small block of 3/4 MDF that was a left over from something that I cut like a 3 inch hole in with a holesaw.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiet-Matt View Post
    I've used a few LPKs that included spiral roll pins fro the trigger guard. These install alot easier, a little oil and they just tap right in.
    I'm not sure a spiral pin that can be tapped in is the right size. My experience has been that spring pins are much harder to remove and install than a roll pin. The spring pins on the M4 side mount sling swivel come to mind.

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