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Thread: Detachable carry handle position?

  1. #1
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    Detachable carry handle position?

    Hello people,

    I apologize that my first post may contain a stupid question, but I really can't seem to find a solid answer.

    When you mount a detachable carry handle on a flat top AR, is it suppose to be completely flush with the front of the upper receiver, or is it OK for it to be back slightly?

    My question may be hard to understand, so here's a picture.



    See how there is that little "lip" at the front of the rail where the carry handle is not completely flush with it?

    That's what I'm referring to.

    Now, I know how to mount the carry handle in the correct slots, I'm just confused about it's position in the slot.

    I tried to push the carry handle up so it sits flush, but the carry handle moves back when I charge the rifle.

    And I have tightened it very securely.

    Just figured I could get the best answers here as I have lurked for awhile and this site is full of great information.

    Thank you.

  2. #2
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    Not a problem, that's just fine as it is.

  3. #3
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    If the CH is moving from charging the weapon it is not securely fastened.

    To attach an optic/sight to a 1913 rail the mount should be pushed forward (toward the muzzle) so the lug sits on the forward rail. Hand tighten the carry handle knob to fix position, and then tool tighten 1/2 to 1 turn on each knob. Highly recommend that you loc-tite the threads and witness mark the knob.
    Jack Leuba
    Director, Military and Government Sales
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bb223 View Post
    And I have tightened it very securely.
    QED, if it's moving, no you haven't. That's not a bust to your chops, that's just logic.

    As F2S stated, use a tool to take it past hand-tight, just don't go crazy with that.

    The step immediately prior to tightening, the application of forward pressure, is the step missed most often, and it applies to anything that's gonna get zeroed.

    If that device isn't pressed toward the muzzle before tightening, there will be a gap between the rear of the rail slot on the receiver and the forward edge of the recoil lug on the rail interface of the device. Imagine that gap, imagine the direction of the recoil impulse, then think to yourself: "How does a jackhammer work?" Instead of one great big shot, it used LOTS of little tiny ones to bust through concrete. That's what recoil impulse can be like, over time; lots of little hits that can loosen up what you've zeroed, certainly shifting your zero and maybe even shaking the thing up to the point that it falls off the weapon. Don't laugh, it's happened!

    If you have left room to move, it will move over time, period. So, push to the muzzle before tightening so that there is no room to move, then tighten. Whether your carry handle is perfectly flush with the front of the receiver is irrelevant, so long as the rail interfaces mate up with the rails correctly.
    Contractor scum, GBAD

  5. #5
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    This info should be put in the FAQ.
    Glock Certified Armorer
    Armed Protective Services II

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blankwaffe View Post
    This info should be put in the FAQ.
    Absolutely.

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys, I will try a larger tool.

    I was pushing forward and applying heavier torque with a nickel and I was using Loctite, but it still slipped backwards.

    This (Colt) carry handle had done this one both my 6920 and my BCM (it is currently on the BCM, the 6920 has a Troy and an ML3).

    So, I guess I should use a screwdriver then?

  8. #8
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    Ok people,

    I used a bit more Loctite and a foot long shank of a screwdriver.

    I'm gonna let it sit for a couple hours and see if we're in business.

    Thanks for the info

  9. #9
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    Also if your carry handle's thumb screws aren't staked on and have been taken off it's possible for the hard bushing that cinches down on the retaining strap to work its way out. I have one thumb screw like that and it just won't stay tight while the other one does.

    Good information JSantoro! I tried that on my rifle and also observed that the CH lays down flat on the rail if pushed forward. If pushed back there is about 1/32" gap at the rear under the base below the elevation knob. I suspect this would be even more important with a cut CH or LMT BUIS.
    Last edited by Quentin; 08-18-10 at 19:07.

  10. #10
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    It's important for ANY device you will attempt to put a zero on, irons, optics, lazerz (be it pointer, designator, illuminator, or ocular interruption)...

    ...and it's important because, as I stated above, the trend is that it's the single most common step missed, largely because it's not universally described in all the user manuals out there. Whether from spotty review during the tech writing process or a miscomprehension that tension by itself is enough...physics beats both possibilities.

    BB, yeah, one generally can't get enough ass behind a coin for it to do what you need. I find that the flat-nosed rasp on the Gerber Multi-tools is a perfect fit in the slots of a carry-handle screw heads
    Last edited by JSantoro; 08-18-10 at 21:59.
    Contractor scum, GBAD

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