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Not an explination, more of a blanket statement so not sure how much help it will provide.
Also, seems like some are saying it will be fine, but others the opposite, so take the above with a grain of salt I suppose.
As for me, I would be in the camp of those who say get another bbl and use this guy for a SPR project down the road. There is no way in my limited oppinion that a .125" or so hole [I assume you used roughly a 1/8" drill bit] so close to the crown of the barrel will not adversly effect the accuracy of the bbl. As the projectile passes that are, there will surely be a void there, causing gas pressure to drop on that side of the round, would that not induce yaw? I mean there maybe what, .5" or .625" left after it passes the newly made hole and before the bullet is in free air. I would imagie this causing yaw. But then again, I am as noob as noob gets when it comes to the firearms world, though I do try and read as much as I can on here.
shoot it, see what happens. i predict it will either immediate keyhole, or begin to keyhole within a couple thousand rounds
if it was me, i'd put it in the cabinet and wait for the next SBR project. the muzzle is no place for damage
Yes, but it is further from the cown and once again, only a guess, but if the OP intended to use 1/8" pin that makes the are of the gas port 1/4 that of the are of the inadvertant hole the OP made.
Once again, only a conclusion based on oppinion, but going from a .003117 SqIn hole roughly in the middle of a barrel to a .012272 SqIn hole very close to the crown would cause a problem in accuracy.
Just an oppinion tho.
I would not even bother shooting it. The OP will spend time and possibly money having the muzzle device attached, only to have a BBL that keyholes. Cant re-use a pined/welded muzzle device after it is removed and some of them are by no means cheap... Why waste it? Just throwing more money away if the bbl turns out to be ruined.
AlexV makes a good point. If I weld it and in a few hundred rounds accuracy starts to suffer (and we can logically assume that accuracy is effected even now with this so close to the muzzle) then where would I be? I'd have to sell it and get a fraction of my investment out of it or destroy the A2X FH and pay for barrel shortening/recrowning, plus the NFA stamp. What SBR lengths/muzzle attachments do you recommend that give good performance? Is there a significant velocity and accuracy difference between a 12.5" plus an A2 FH and an 11" and a Noveske pig? Maybe a 13.5" or 14" custom length and a Noveske pinned (by a pro this time) would be 16.1" loa? Do you think this barrel can be cut down and have a FSC556 attached and still be 16.1"?
Last edited by Davy35D; 08-20-10 at 17:42.
if it's a factory colt, your thread shelf should be wide enough to simply turn the barrel back 3/8ths-1/2"
if this is the case, you could do that, and then perm an extra long muzzle device. i would not do a KX3- they're heavy and wasted on non-CQBRs. i think the levangs are pretty long, and there's others.
ADCO will turn it back for $75. tell them not to turn down the shelf behind the threads, and not to **** with the gas port, though.
Why does this always happen to COLT barrels?
This isn't the first time someone who has no business working on firearms has made this mistake. I've read of this at least 2 other times on ARFcom.
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