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Thread: Barrel nut removal help - Lightweight barrel will not stop rotating in vice jaws

  1. #21
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    Thanks Rob, I have the upper in the freezer now (my wife will love this). I should have the panther block tomorrow and we will see what happens.
    Thanks for the help everyone and thanks notorious_ar15 for starting this thread for me to piggy back on.
    Last edited by CENTCOM_Survivor; 09-13-10 at 10:05.
    As required: "I work for ITS Tactical as an editor".

  2. #22
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    Promptly slap the shit out of yourself for not making sure that you had the right stuff on hand.

    Quote Originally Posted by CENTCOM_Survivor View Post
    Yeah, I went old school (wood) without a real receiver block and just my luck it cracked at the ejection port. After that I went medieval in the vice but it still wont budge.



    I'm going to the VTAC hand guards so I have the new ring assembly/barrel nut. I think my bolt cutters will fit over the delta ring.



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  3. #23
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    The proper tool for the proper job.

  4. #24
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    Be very cautious using heat.

    There is a technique used to bend heat treated 7075 aluminum called "hot forming" that can be done with a heat gun. The heat temporarily softens the aluminum so it can be formed, such as when removing a dent, without cracking the material. It does not take much heat and one has to be careful not to over heat the metal or heat it too many times or for too long. To do so will remove the heat treat and cause damage in the grain of the metal.

    Trying to remove the barrel while the receiver is hot could distort the receiver.

    If I recall, the use of a torch of any kind was forbidden as the open flame could cause permanent damage to aluminum
    Last edited by MistWolf; 09-15-10 at 08:06.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    Promptly slap the shit out of yourself for not making sure that you had the right stuff on hand.
    Yeah, live and learn.
    As required: "I work for ITS Tactical as an editor".

  6. #26
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    I recently removed the barrel nut on a mil-spec AR-15 upper using the following:

    Brownells upper receiver block, clamped in a vise.


    And this armorers wrench, with the additional leverage of a 12 inch cheater (that is, I slipped a 12 inch piece of galvanized iron pipe over the end of the wrench). The barrel nut was tight, but it came loose without too much fuss. I did not remove the barrel from the upper itself since I was only installing a new hand guard.


    I've read the initial post several time, the rest of them too, am I missing something about the barrel removal?
    Pat

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  7. #27
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    The freezer did the trick!! I used the panther claw, freezer, wrench, and breaker pipe and it finally gave. The panther claw and freezer is what I was missing the first time, I wont make that ($$) mistake again.

    Thanks for everyones help!
    As required: "I work for ITS Tactical as an editor".

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by CENTCOM_Survivor View Post
    The freezer did the trick!! I used the panther claw, freezer, wrench, and breaker pipe and it finally gave. The panther claw and freezer is what I was missing the first time, I wont make that ($$) mistake again.

    Thanks for everyones help!

    ...........
    “A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu


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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by CENTCOM_Survivor View Post
    Yeah, I went old school (wood) without a real receiver block and just my luck it cracked at the ejection port.

    I keep a record going of the results when this method is used, and when I see the "wood block method" mentioned, I like to post those results in hopes of preventing someone from destroying a serviceable weapon, or in some cases, their knuckles!

    ______________________________________________

    I just had to buy a new upper because I used the blocks of wood to remove a barrel and cracked the receiver. Buy the right tools! There cheap compare to replacing parts.

    Posted :: Yesterday 8:17:20 PM MDT
    I am trying to remove the barrel from my Bushy so I can install my nifty new DD rail. Got the FSB and SureFire muzzle brake off okay. Using the DPMS armorers tool, all I have accomplished so far is to destroy the receiver itself. No, I wasn't using the Claw. Yes I have one on order along with my new stripped receiver.

    I had the flattop upper clamped firmly sideways in a vice w/Delrin jaws. Put some muscle on it, heard a pop and thought great, it broke loose. It broke alright. Cracked the receiver right below the ejection port. So I soaked it it penetrating oil overnight while I mourned my lost receiver and berated myself for my cheapness for not buying the proper tools to start.

    Today, I clamped the receiver in the vice again. Already broken, can't hurt it now right? I even took the padded jaws out so the steel could bite into the aluminum. Put the arm on it again. Popped the receiver right out of the vice and skinned a knuckle or two. More swearing. Wife and kids heard me upstairs. Now my 3 year old son is running around saying "son of a bealpole!" at the top of his lungs. Or something like that.

    Somebody help me! I'm not willing to give up on the barrel too!

    Posted :: 10/5/2008 5:44:11 PM MDT
    BUY YOUR OWN UPPER BLOCK!!!

    That is the best advice I can possibly give, it will be the most useful $40 you ever spend. I decided to craft my own upper block out of some thick sturdy wood and paid the price by scratching the shit out of my upper and skinning my knuckles pretty badly.

    Posted: Today 12:07:41 PM MST
    During my first build I managed to tweak my Rock River flat top upper ever so slightly so that the bolt will seat when forced, but normally not on its own. There is no apparent visible damage, but I know the receiver is out of true because of the issue with the bolt not wanting to seat on its own. This happened because I was trying to install the barrel in a vise with a couple 2x4s. I ordered a new upper, and the gun now has about 1K rounds through it so I learned my lesson the hard way. My question is, is there any way I can have that upper re-trued? It's just sitting in a box in my office, so it's not doing much for me, but now I have a new lower to play with. I just thought I'd ask in case anyone has ever heard of that kind of a repair. Thanks!

    Posted: 1/5/2009 12:14:11 PM MDT
    I purchased a cosmetic blem upper to replace a upper that I cracked during a barrel change (did not use the proper tools, which I now have). I noticed as I inserted the barrel into the new cosmetic blem upper there was a lot of play. I measured the inside diameter and it was 1.001 to 1.002. I have two other stripped uppers and they both measured 1.000. Is the blem upper out of spec and is it safe to use?

    Posted: Today 11:43:23 AM
    Back many years ago before I had a vice block I used to wrap my uppers in a piece of leather and put them in a vice to change barrels. I wasn't paying attention one time and bent the area you are having a problem with. It wasn't noticeable until I slid the BCG in and felt the resistance at the port door. I put the upper on the work bench and used a block of wood and a dead blow hammer to straiten it back out. I've never had a problem with that upper and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again if I had to. I did get on the ball and get a vice block and barrel blocks after it happened. Anyway if it was me Id straiten it out and go from there. If it bugs you knowing it's been bent then replace it, but if you run it and it doesn't bother you then forget it and go on.

    Posted: Today 10:13:21 AM
    “A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu


    http://quibphotography.com/

  10. #30
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    Do the Brownell's barrel blocks clamp the lightweight barrel enough so you can install a muzzle device? I need to do this soon and am wondering.

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