Snake,There's a local gunsmith in my area that does a $100 trigger job. From dissecting what he did to two of my lowers, it looks like:
1) remove the tail on the stock hammer
2) thread and install two set screws into the lower, one for take up, the other for overtravel. Both are red loctited in, since he doesn't want folks monkeying with it and making it unsafe.
3) polished surfaces on the hammer, trigger, and sear.
4) uses standard stock springs
I have two lowers done by him (one a PWA, the other a RRA), and both triggers are nice, clean, and have almost no overtravel. The PWA has over 12,000 through it, including three high round count one and two day rifle courses (1000 rounds per day) with no issues. I haven't tested the trigger pull weight, but it's probably less than 4 lbs. The RRA lower is on my SPR style upper. I guess it has more like 3500 rounds through it by now.
Messing with triggers is beyond my armorer experience. This fellow builds some of the nicest 1911s around, and has had decades of experience. I don't have the tools or training to do anything with them, and really don't want to experiment. I use and recommend stock factory triggers for 95% of ARs. If, and it's been especially with RRA lately, the trigger is gritty and hard, I shoot it until it's broken in, which is somewhere around 300-600 rounds. If that trigger hasn't smoothed out (happened on an ArmaLite AR10), then I replace the trigger group completely with a new one.
Is that Ed Vandenberg?
Bob
Bookmarks