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Thread: Do I need to pin the gas block

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by LewP View Post
    If I was going to install it myself I'd just buy one of the Geissele gas blocks that includes the taper pin:

    http://geissele.com/supergasblock.aspx
    Not a taper pin.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveS View Post
    Not a taper pin.
    Correct. It looks to be a roll pin, or possibly two nested roll pins.
    "That thing looks about as enjoyable as a bowl of exploding dicks." - Magic_Salad0892

    "The body cannot go where the mind has not already been."

  3. #23
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    You may want to check out our MicroPin Gas Block.

    http://www.blackrivertactical.com/co...pin-gas-block/

    Its a precision fit gas block specifically designed to be easily pinned without a drill jig.

    A flat face and center spot positively locate the drill bit in the optimal position.

    It comes standard with those knurled screws and a spiral coil pin for extremely easy installation.

    It can also be pinned with a taper pin or a straight pin using the appropriate reamer.

    Quote Originally Posted by BufordTJustice View Post
    That was my other option. Either drilling a BCM .750 block (or equivalent) or getting a geissele. However, as good as the roll-pin appears (and I"m sure it's more than adequate for the task), a taper pin like that found in this kit by 87ind seems stronger and....well...more "bombproof":

    https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3939


    My searches have turned-up nothing so far, so the GA gasblock is prolly gonna get the nod. I'm using an RA Mountain series 18" barrel with rifle gas. It isn't dimpled, so I need to do that as well. Gonna be on a patrol upper, so I definitely want it to be pinned.

    Also, going to use the McMaster-Carr knurled GB screws as rec'd by IG after I dimple the barrel:

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#90289a337/=pj95k2


    Then gonna use either Rocksett, Red Loctite 271, or Resbond 907TS and a dab of green Loctite between the GB and the barrel as rec'd by Grant.

    Yes, it's overkill. Nobody every complained of a gas block that was secured "too well". However, I've seen plenty of guns go down because one wasn't secured well enough. Lil-bit of OCD about this as well.
    Black River Tactical
    BRT OPTIMUM HFCL Barrels - Hammer Forged Chrome Lined 11.5", 12.5", 14.5"
    BRT OPTIMUM Barrels - 16" MPR, 14.5" MPC, 12.5" MRC, 11.5" CQB, 9" PDW
    BRT EZTUNE Preset Gas Tubes - CAR and MID
    BRT Covert Comps 7.62, 5.56, 6X, 9mm
    BRT MarkBlue Gas Tubes - BRT EXT, EXC and PDW Lengths
    BRT MicroPin Gas Blocks - .750" & .625"
    BRT MicroTUNE Adjustable Gas Blocks
    BRT CustomTUNE Gas Ports

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clint View Post
    You may want to check out our MicroPin Gas Block.

    http://www.blackrivertactical.com/co...pin-gas-block/

    Its a precision fit gas block specifically designed to be easily pinned without a drill jig.

    A flat face and center spot positively locate the drill bit in the optimal position.

    It comes standard with those knurled screws and a spiral coil pin for extremely easy installation.

    It can also be pinned with a taper pin or a straight pin using the appropriate reamer.

    Color me interested, Clint. You wouldn't happen to sell the taper pins, would you?

    EDIT: I REALLY like that you include those knurled set-screws.

    DOUBLE EDIT: In your opinion, do you think much is gained in going with a taper pin versus your supplied spiral roll pin?
    Last edited by BufordTJustice; 11-25-13 at 23:03.
    "That thing looks about as enjoyable as a bowl of exploding dicks." - Magic_Salad0892

    "The body cannot go where the mind has not already been."

  5. #25
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    The knurled set-screws are the best choice this application, that's why we include them with the block.

    The solid pins are stronger in terms of absolute strength, but the requirements for a gas block fall more in line with fixing the location, rather than transmitting torque, so maximum strength is not required.

    If you like solid pins instead, we do offer a solid pinning kit for straight pins like Noveske uses.

    The decision comes down to personal preference and ease of install.

    The spiral coil pin works and is dead easy to install.

    Just drill the hole and knock the pin in.

    Taper pins and straight pins are slightly more difficult.

    You need to drill an undersized hole, ream to size and then knock the pin in.

    The solid pin reamer can just be run clean through, while the taper pin reamer needs to be reamed to a specific depth.

    2/0 taper pins are commonly available in 3/4" length, which is a little long for low pro blocks, and must be trimmed or left long.

    0.625" solid or coil pins are a perfect length.




    Quote Originally Posted by BufordTJustice View Post
    Color me interested, Clint. You wouldn't happen to sell the taper pins, would you?

    EDIT: I REALLY like that you include those knurled set-screws.

    DOUBLE EDIT: In your opinion, do you think much is gained in going with a taper pin versus your supplied spiral roll pin?
    Black River Tactical
    BRT OPTIMUM HFCL Barrels - Hammer Forged Chrome Lined 11.5", 12.5", 14.5"
    BRT OPTIMUM Barrels - 16" MPR, 14.5" MPC, 12.5" MRC, 11.5" CQB, 9" PDW
    BRT EZTUNE Preset Gas Tubes - CAR and MID
    BRT Covert Comps 7.62, 5.56, 6X, 9mm
    BRT MarkBlue Gas Tubes - BRT EXT, EXC and PDW Lengths
    BRT MicroPin Gas Blocks - .750" & .625"
    BRT MicroTUNE Adjustable Gas Blocks
    BRT CustomTUNE Gas Ports

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clint View Post
    The solid pins are stronger in terms of absolute strength, but the requirements for a gas block fall more in line with fixing the location, rather than transmitting torque, so maximum strength is not required.
    Good to know. I recently had to change the gas tube on one of my SBRs. In the process of removing the VLTOR pinned gas block, I accidently lost the solid pin. I ended up replacing it with a roll pin I happened to have sitting around.
    Last edited by Hmac; 11-26-13 at 09:56.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clint View Post
    The knurled set-screws are the best choice this application, that's why we include them with the block.

    The solid pins are stronger in terms of absolute strength, but the requirements for a gas block fall more in line with fixing the location, rather than transmitting torque, so maximum strength is not required.

    If you like solid pins instead, we do offer a solid pinning kit for straight pins like Noveske uses.

    The decision comes down to personal preference and ease of install.

    The spiral coil pin works and is dead easy to install.

    Just drill the hole and knock the pin in.

    Taper pins and straight pins are slightly more difficult.

    You need to drill an undersized hole, ream to size and then knock the pin in.

    The solid pin reamer can just be run clean through, while the taper pin reamer needs to be reamed to a specific depth.

    2/0 taper pins are commonly available in 3/4" length, which is a little long for low pro blocks, and must be trimmed or left long.

    0.625" solid or coil pins are a perfect length.
    Thank you for the outstanding reply, Clint.

    Part of the reason that I didn't pull the trigger on the 87ind pinned block was that it used only one set screw. I'm sure that was ifne, but yours uses two screws, applying even downward pressure on the gas journal by the block even before the pin is in place. A good little bit of overkill as far as the gas seal goes.

    Now that I understand the purpose of the pin, I'm sold. Thanks for speaking up.
    "That thing looks about as enjoyable as a bowl of exploding dicks." - Magic_Salad0892

    "The body cannot go where the mind has not already been."

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sausage View Post
    Hi,

    Sorry if this is a redundant question. New to the forum and new to building an AR. I have a BCM BFH 16 dimpled barrel, with a VLTOR Low Profile Gas Block GB-2S (steel with set screws). Do I need to have this pinned to the barrel? Any info is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!!
    Assuming that you are running a rail over it AND are doing the install properly with the correct loctites (yes two different ones), I would say that you will be fine.



    C4
    Last edited by C4IGrant; 11-26-13 at 10:02.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    Assuming that you are running a rail over it AND are doing the install properly with the correct loctites (yes two different ones), I would say that you will be fine.



    C4
    Grant, you mean the red (271) on the threads and the green (290) between the GB and barrel journal, correct?
    "That thing looks about as enjoyable as a bowl of exploding dicks." - Magic_Salad0892

    "The body cannot go where the mind has not already been."

  10. #30
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    One thing to keep in mind for those that are contemplating using Loctite whether it be the red or retaining compound, set screws, etc.... At some point you may need to remove the gas block so I would make sure you understand what it takes to do it properly and understand what will be necessary to remove everything as well.



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