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Thread: Do I need to pin the gas block

  1. #1
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    Do I need to pin the gas block

    Hi,

    Sorry if this is a redundant question. New to the forum and new to building an AR. I have a BCM BFH 16 dimpled barrel, with a VLTOR Low Profile Gas Block GB-2S (steel with set screws). Do I need to have this pinned to the barrel? Any info is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!!

  2. #2
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    For most users using just the set screws as is will be fine. For those on the forum that run their carbines very hard they tend to opt for pinning in addition to the set screws to make sure the gas block doesn't cause problems at inopportune times.

  3. #3
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    As long as your barrel is dimpled and it's goign to be covered by the rail then you dont really have to. Just put red Loctite on the set screws. If it's exposed or partially exposed, then pin it.
    Personally, I'd pin it regardless. For peace of mind at the very least. Especially if you plan on training with your build.

  4. #4
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    Rainier will pin it for you for $30. I just had them pin a VLTOR on a BCM BFH for me. If you already have your FF rails, send the barrel nut along with the barrel and they'll slip it on for you before they pin the gas block.

  5. #5
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    Thanks!

    Thanks for the feedback. I will have it pinned.

    Hmac,

    Thanks for the info but the guys who built my lower JD Machine can pin it for me locally.

    Appreciate the quick responses!

  6. #6
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    Is there a how to thread on pinning the gas block yourself?

    I'm an armorer for my department and I see quite a few guns come in (we allow Officers to purchase their own) with set screw gas blocks. I would love to be able to just drill and pin them myself but I've never done taper pins and I'm not familiar with what is needed.

    ETA: Found my answer in the archives. Here is the link:

    https://www.m4carbine.net/archive/in...p/t-13718.html
    Last edited by Altair; 11-04-10 at 15:16.
    Advanced techniques are the basics mastered.

    Excellence is an art won by training and habit. We are what we repeatedly do. -- Aristotle

    Pistol/Shotgun/Rifle Instructor
    Sig/Remington/RRA/Sabre Armorer

  7. #7
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    Here's another great resource:
    http://brdengineering.com/Gas_Block_Drilling_Jig.php
    His jigs are available at Bravo and Rainier.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Col_Crocs View Post
    Here's another great resource:
    http://brdengineering.com/Gas_Block_Drilling_Jig.php
    His jigs are available at Bravo and Rainier.
    I used the dimpling jig & the taper pin jig on my 6.8 build. Nice stuff & good instructions.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdcgrohl View Post
    I used the dimpling jig & the taper pin jig on my 6.8 build. Nice stuff & good instructions.
    I just ordered both from Rainier. Thanks for the help.
    Advanced techniques are the basics mastered.

    Excellence is an art won by training and habit. We are what we repeatedly do. -- Aristotle

    Pistol/Shotgun/Rifle Instructor
    Sig/Remington/RRA/Sabre Armorer

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdcgrohl View Post
    I used the dimpling jig & the taper pin jig on my 6.8 build. Nice stuff & good instructions.
    Agreed. I've used both of these for several builds. I always use the Vltor lo-pro block with the set screws, dimple the barrel and use Rocksett on the screws. Then I drill, ream and taper pin as well. Probably overkill, but bombproof.
    "Guns are like neurosurgeons. When you need one, you need one badly."

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