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Thread: BCM FSB Taper Pins

  1. #1
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    BCM FSB Taper Pins

    Holy shit. They sure make 'em sturdy. I've never had a problem removing any other taper pins (including a few Colts). This is a whole new animal.

    The front pin came out after about 15 minutes of pounding and cursing. The rear pin hammered in flush with the FSB and refuses to move further. I've mushroomed three punches and a two nail sets trying to get it to go any further. Part of the problem is that I keep on slipping off of it (since it is flush it is hard to get any purchase, even with a nail set). All I've accomplished is tearing the shit out of the FSB.

    I've had the FSB either supported by the jaws of my vice or on an action block on the concrete floor of my garage. I started with a 5/16 punch to get the pins moving. Moved down to the smaller punches/nail sets once they pins went flush. I've been using a 2.5 lb. sledge to hammer. The front pin just refuses to move any further. It's been soaked in several different types of oil. I don't have any Kroil or PB Blaster on hand and don't have any available locally. I've now put about two to three hours into trying to remove this second pin.

    Anyone have any more suggestions or similar stories to make me feel better?

  2. #2
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    Try and freeze it. If that doesn't work you can always contact me. I can probably make some time to assist you.

    Quote Originally Posted by mechelaar View Post
    Holy shit. They sure make 'em sturdy. I've never had a problem removing any other taper pins (including a few Colts). This is a whole new animal.

    The front pin came out after about 15 minutes of pounding and cursing. The rear pin hammered in flush with the FSB and refuses to move further. I've mushroomed three punches and a two nail sets trying to get it to go any further. Part of the problem is that I keep on slipping off of it (since it is flush it is hard to get any purchase, even with a nail set). All I've accomplished is tearing the shit out of the FSB.

    I've had the FSB either supported by the jaws of my vice or on an action block on the concrete floor of my garage. I started with a 5/16 punch to get the pins moving. Moved down to the smaller punches/nail sets once they pins went flush. I've been using a 2.5 lb. sledge to hammer. The front pin just refuses to move any further. It's been soaked in several different types of oil. I don't have any Kroil or PB Blaster on hand and don't have any available locally. I've now put about two to three hours into trying to remove this second pin.

    Anyone have any more suggestions or similar stories to make me feel better?



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  3. #3
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    since you're ruining punches... get a 3/32nd punch and concave the tip with a dremel bullet bit. it'll help keep the punch centered on the pin, and will tend to keep the pins from mushrooming.

    some more tips, which you may or may not be currently utilizing:

    -make sure your FSB is fully supported on something hard. an FSB pin jig is great, but i've made my own out of wood. if nothing else, set the FSB on a block of wood, and straight to your benchtop. any mushiness- from a limp table, padded mat, etc, will make it harder to drive them out

    -imagine you're gonna knock them out with one or two solid, heavy blows... don't taptaptaptaptap on them- whack the **** out of them (but don't hit your own hand or your expensive aluminum handguard). this will also help you keep the punch centered on the pin- it wont have a chance to walk off

    -use a heavy hammer- a little 16oz "home-owner" hammer isn't gonna do it. use a light sledge or a nice heavy 26-28oz framing hammer. no titanium- that's too light.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkb0000 View Post
    since you're ruining punches... get a 3/32nd punch and concave the tip with a dremel bullet bit. it'll help keep the punch centered on the pin, and will tend to keep the pins from mushrooming.
    A 3/32 Nail Set works great. No Dremeling required.
    Last edited by Quib; 10-09-10 at 09:22.
    “A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu


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  5. #5
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    I use a nail set too. Also you have to get them to move in the first few hits or you may damage the pins and or the FSB.
    Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
    Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotm4 View Post
    I use a nail set too. Also you have to get them to move in the first few hits or you may damage the pins and or the FSB.
    I've also had to move the whole project from the work bench to the shop floor on some of those really stubborn pins, and have suggested this to others in the past.

    A flimsy tabletop or bouncing work bench only robs the energy from the hammer strike, verses transferring it through the hammer face, into the nail set, and on into the FSB taper pin.
    “A leader is best when people barely know he exists, when his work is done, his aim fulfilled, they will say: we did it ourselves.” -Lao Tzu


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  7. #7
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    In my limited experience, I've never had a problem removing a pin on an AR but I have had difficult pins on other instruments and machinery. This brings up an question.

    I've found it be better to have a lighter ball pein hammer (8 oz) held near the end of the handle to maximized the speed of the swing, and make a very fast "high speed" impact on the drift, punch or whatever your using. I've found that the greater speed of a lighter hammer packs more punch and helps "shock" the pin loose than the slow speed hit of a heavy hammer.

    I think most people like a bigger hammer for the surface area of the heavy hammer's face. It takes practice to make accurate high speed hits with a lighter hammer. I think most people lack confidence in their accuracy to make a really hard fast strike, so they compensate with a bigger hammer.

    Does this make sense or is it applicable?

    .
    Last edited by ucrt; 10-09-10 at 09:13. Reason: Clarity/Spelling

  8. #8
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    BCM Taper Pins are easy to remove. You just need to know the trick.

    Have one person push down on the upper (hard) while you smack the pins (like a man).



    C4

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ucrt View Post
    In my limited experience, I've never had a problem removing a pin on an AR but I have had difficult pins on other instruments and machinery. This brings up an question.

    I've found it be better to have a lighter ball pein hammer (8 oz) held near the end of the handle to maximized the speed of the swing, and make a very fast "high speed" impact on the drift, punch or whatever your using. I've found that the greater speed of a lighter hammer packs more punch and helps "shock" the pin loose than the slow speed hit of a heavy hammer.

    I think most people like a bigger hammer for the surface area of the heavy hammer's face. It takes practice to make accurate high speed hits with a lighter hammer. I think most people lack confidence in their accuracy to make a really hard fast strike, so they compensate with a bigger hammer.

    Does this make sense or is it applicable?

    .
    Most people use a bigger hammer because it's heavier.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quib View Post
    I've also had to move the whole project from the work bench to the shop floor on some of those really stubborn pins, and have suggested this to others in the past.

    A flimsy tabletop or bouncing work bench only robs the energy from the hammer strike, verses transferring it through the hammer face, into the nail set, and on into the FSB taper pin.
    I used to do this too when I had my old work bench I work.

    We had a much bigger sturdier heavier work bench made for me.

    now I just have the FSB in a Brownells orange FSB block, the upper receiver on a rifle block and whack the pins. I've yet not been able to get a set of pins out. I do however hate the marshmallow soft DPMS and CMMG taper pins. These will flatten if you used a brass punch. When working on those I replace the pins with BCM or Colt pins.
    Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
    Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)

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