Home-brewed Glock grip reduction and stippling *update GFA pg4

[Kilo 1-1]

This is a quick guide for those thinking of doing a grip reduction on a Glock.

I stippled my G19 last November, but after almost a year of shooting, I decided to go ahead and do a more aggressive grip reduction. The logic is to remove the rear bulb on the back of the grip to give it a more 1911-like straighter grip angle. The stock grip angle tends to make the gun point a little higher when gripping.

The guys at Boresight Solutions, Robar, and Bowie Tactical provides both grip reduction and stippling services. They're really good at what they do though, but I'm impatient and I want the satisfaction of doing it myself (and saving the money to buy ammo).

Default/stock:


State of my G19 prior to greater reduction.


Whenever a more aggressive grip reduction is done, the cavity in the back of the frame has to be filled in. I used mariner epoxy and syringe.



The cavity where the trigger housing area sits in needs to be blocked. If epoxy gets in there, you're F'd before you even really start.


I also taped off the magwell area using duct tape. The halfmoon relief cut on the rear wall of the magwell was filled with a quarter to prevent epoxy from spilling over.




I waited for about 4 hours for the epoxy to fully set/dry before I pulled out the dremel to start grinding the back.



Also started forming the inside bevel/funnel. Not really necessary, but I put it in to help aid reloads if I inserted the magazine at an off angle.


More grinding/sanding.


Test fit to grip to see if the angle was good enough or not.


Started re-stippling process.

Gotta love the pigs...being politically incorrect to the radical hajs out there.

[Kilo 1-1]

After cleaning/smoothing out the funnel/bevel area, painted it.




I felt it was mostly done at this point.


But I decided to ground down the trigger guard to make reholstering easier for my conceal carry holster.


And finished.


The reduction I did wasn't drastic, as I could have gone further. But the few inches/millimeters shaved off still makes a difference. I have large hands, so I didn't want the grip to be too narrow/thin. One thing The services Robar, Boresight, and others provide is expensive....because of the amount of labor and time involved. I can appreciate the skill and work those guys do...because it's one thing to do do it - and another to do it well. I'm nowhere as skilled as those guys either. This was a pain in the ass to do, with a lot of potentially of making your firearm non-functional if you don't know what you're doing.

[CaracalUSA]

EXCELLENT job!!!!

[1_click_off]

WOW! Looks great.

[xrayoneone]

Yup great job. I had to do a double take, that one picture makes it look like you hade a chromed slide.

[Kchen986]

Wow. Good job!

How does it 'point' now? Is it anywhere like a 1911? I find that when I go from practicing draws with my other guns back to the Glock, I usually have to remember to roll my wrists a little bit further down. Would be nice to eliminate that.

[Bolt_Overide]

Looks pretty good for a garage job, better than my first time.

[Magsz]

What did you paint the epoxy with? Color match looks decent.

Also, how did the epoxy take your stippling?

[Kilo 1-1]

Thanks guys. The glock points a little more 'naturally' for me now (and not as high).

The paint used was just Krylon Camo Black.

The epoxy itself can be stippled. I did not grind the back down to the epoxy itself, but I got very very close to it. I did stipple the epoxy area where the lanyard retention hole used to be at. There was no issue stippling the epoxy there.

[Magsz]

Cool,

Job well done.

Did you grind the "frame plug" area by hand? If so nice attention to detail, very uniform in appearance.