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Is there a source other then Matthew Cox in regards to the Government dust test of M16A4 and M4 Carbines?
A few thoughts after reading the thread. My experience won't hold a candle to most folks here, so take it with a grain of salt. First of all, thanks for the thread...very informative.
I read comments early on about usng teflon in lubricants. Teflon impregnated in materials as a surface coating has useful, limited properties; works great on frying pans, worthless in engines and most moving parts. Teflon does not actualy impregnate or soak into metal, or even fill the "pores." It doesn't bond with metal except at very high temperatures...and no weapon reaches them. The lubes that claim to impregnatethe metal surfaces at operatin temperature, particularly those using teflon, are grossly misleading. False claims.
Kroil was recently mentioned. I've used it alot in an aircraft maintenance capacity, and I've used it on firearms, too. Kroil is a great product, but like many, it does have it's limitations.
The use of the word "mineral oil" was used early on, and I think there are some misconceptions. Petroleum based oils are mineral oils. They come in many forms, but nonsynthetic motor oil is mineral oil, 3 in 1 oil is mineral oil...very different properties, but still mineral oil. Refering to an oil as mineral oil may be technically correct, but doesn't address the properties of the oil in the least. Only a discussion of it's formulation can do that.
I've heard a lot of shooters talking about using motor oil. Yes, it's wet, and yes, it's slippery...but motor oil is designed for a very different useage, and for different properties tha what you have in mind in firearms. It's not the best choice. Any lube is better than none, but it's not a particuarly good choice...and it doesn't protect your firearm particularly well from corrosion.
The best corrosion protection you can use isn't wiping the weapon down with oil and leaving it...it's wiping it down frequently and keeping a close eye on a well maintained weapon. Regular maintenance, and that may include just wiping the weapon down to remove dirt, dust, finger prints, lint, etc...will do as much for corrosion as storing it in oil. Having said that, I was in Papua New Guinea when the Bougainville Republican Army forced local villiage leaders to reveal the location of a Japanese weapons cache, when they recovered some weapons which had been stored for a very long time in...used motor oil. Still, n nothing beats regular preventative maintenance.
I can't speak to the efficacy of the different specialty lubes here. On some weapons that I've put into long term storage, I've used aircraft preservatives and corrosion preventatives in the past with good effect, largely because I had them available; ACF-50 has worked well, and Corrosion X. Neither are perfect, but have served well.
WD 40 is a solvent, not a lubricant, and is not a preservative, despite it's claims.
I haven't ever shot my firearms for thousands of rounds without cleaning. So I can't make claims regrding that kind of abuse to any products I've used. Every time I discharge a firearm, I clean it, and it stays stored clean. It's so ingrained I don't think I'd get to sleep at night if I let the weapon go to bed dirty.
I have militech and have used it, but not for one second to I lay any stock to claims that it penetrates metal or even treats metal. It doesn't, and can't. It may serve as a lubricant, though I am skeptical as to how effective it may be...it's only real advantage may be a tendency to not attract so much dust...but it's so darn thin...maybe better than nothing, but who wants to stick with better than nothing?
I've been going with tetra gun grease for a while now, and it has served well. I'd like to hear from experienced hands what their thoughts are on that.
If you want dry lube, try boeing lube some time. It comes in a stick form.
I fully agree with generous lubrication; always have. Thanks again for the thread and the read.
Matthew Cox probably based his article on information from the Public Affairs Officer of the testing agency.
I haven't seen all of the reports on the subject testing, but one I did see was Limited Distribution (DoD only). It's reasonable to expect future reports on the topic to be similarly limited.
Therefore I would not expect to see another source or much further info, unless/until the testing agency decides to disseminate the information.
GLOCK PREFECTION
This is a great thread... very informative. Can't believe I missed it earlier!![]()
Great Thread. I have been in the Army for 6 years now, I am on my 3rd year in Iraq. Durring the invasion of Iraq the only thing we could get was millitary issue CLP. We constantly had issues with it and ran out. We then used 15/40 oil. This was a temporary fix but would not reccomend if you will be shooting a lot. It does lube well, but gets sticky with the carbon. Durring the 2nd deployment in 2005 we were given miltec lube. This worked a lot better than the CLP but was not the answer we need. It cleaned well but didn't lube well. This is contrary to what some others have said. I use my weapon a lot over here as a scout/sniper. My primary weapon being and M4. This tour I got a shipment of slip 2000 EWL and it is the best so far. I also received the bolt cleaner they use. It works wonders on these old weapons and cleans the bolts better than anything else I have used. I would reccomend slip 2000 to anyone out there. The key to any of this is to clean and relube your rifle after every firefight. or shooting for those not over here. I keep a bottle of slip 2000 in my vest at all times. I relube it immediatly after a firefight untill I can clean my rifle again.
Just a few points from over here in Iraq I thought I would share. What else am I to do on Christmas when the generals won't let me go out on patrol.
Scouts Out
Chad
Shooters choice for cleaning and FP-10 for the lube. Sounds like slip-2000 is worth a try.
Is anyone selling the slip200 EWL other than the slip2000 website? I am trying to buy a few things all together and dont want to pay 9.95 for shipping.
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