SIG P228: Bad ammo, or out of spec firing pin?

[298436]

Hey yall,

I have had multiple failure to fires with Remington UMC brass cased 115gr FMJ ammo at a class and regular practice. (I have since discarded all my stock in that brand). The new Remington UMC has silver primers, not brass colored ones.

I've had fewer problems with WWB ammo and none with GDHP +P. Is there a way to tell if my firing pin is out of spec? Or is the ammo that I shot garbage? (I shoot all WWB now)

[Entropy]

It could be a weak hammer spring. The P228 is an old gun, and shooting it a bunch, or leaving the action open a lot can weaken it. If you haven't already, I would replace every spring in the pistol and keep a log of when this was done.

[Robb Jensen]

Has the gun had a 'trigger job'?
Most involve lighter hammer springs which allow the hammer to hit softer.

[gtmtnbiker98]

Replace main spring, replace roll pins, clean firing pin channel.

[Entropy]

I replaced every spring that came with the spring kit that you can buy for these pistols, except the...It's here, the spring that has a small loop in it. (It's not the decocker spring, it's the one next to it). I couldn't replace that spring because mine has the older style plastic grips, and the spring that was included was for the newer style plastic grips.

The spring that you are referring to is the trigger bar spring. You can order the old style from Sig if you want to keep your old grips. Or, you can order the newer plastic grips from Sig so that you can use the newer spring(with the loop). Also, the service kit does NOT include a hammer spring.

I really do like the pistol. I just don't want a FTF should I ever need it. I don't like replacing the inner and outer slide pins...

The slide pin is called the firing pin position pin which are two roll pins. The outter pin is oriented to the 12 o'clock and the inner to the 6 o'clock. You are supposed to replace those pins every time that you take them out using a roll pin punch.

ETA: It's the one you see in the picture plainly looking at ya. And what is the procedure for replacing the hammer spring? I've never taken this thing down beyond a field strip / what could be replaced with the rebuild kit.

When you take the grips off, you are taking the pistol down beyond the regular field strip and are doing a detailed strip. Reason being, it is easy to have the trigger bar spring fall out, and then fail to install it properly. Then of course, taking the screws in and out over and over again can eventually strip out the grip screw threads in the frame and when that happens you are SOL. I usually only gently tighten them and use blue loctite. In order to remove the main spring(hammer spring), you have to depress the hammer strut on the main spring seat to compress the spring using the Sig armorer's tool. Once the hammer strut assembly is out, then you have to tap out the capturing roll pin to slide off the main spring. You can also replace the old style main spring assembly with the new style which has a smoother overall DA/SA trigger and is easier to work on. The new style was something to come out of the German engineers and it was incorportated in the mid 1990s. However, this is all really an armorer's job. You might be able to do it yourself, but you run the risk of installing your parts improperly or boogering up your gun. Having a local armorer do the work for you won't cost much at all, and you'll have the confidence to know that the job was done right and your gun won't be scared up. If Sigs interest you, a classic Sig pistol armorer's course runs for $400 and then you'll have the knowledge to do everything you want to the gun without damaging it. You'll also get to take apart various Sigs many times in the class so that you have the hands on knowledge.

[298436]

Cool guys, I suppose that is what I should need to know.

I did replace both inner and outer pins about 600 rounds ago. 8-31-09 was when it was recorded in its log.

[Bulldog7972]

The spring that you are referring to is the trigger bar spring. You can order the old style from Sig if you want to keep your old grips. Or, you can order the newer plastic grips from Sig so that you can use the newer spring(with the loop). Also, the service kit does NOT include a hammer spring.


The slide pin is called the firing pin position pin which are two roll pins. The outter pin is oriented to the 12 o'clock and the inner to the 6 o'clock. You are supposed to replace those pins every time that you take them out using a roll pin punch.


When you take the grips off, you are taking the pistol down beyond the regular field strip and are doing a detailed strip. Reason being, it is easy to have the trigger bar spring fall out, and then fail to install it properly. Then of course, taking the screws in and out over and over again can eventually strip out the grip screw threads in the frame and when that happens you are SOL. I usually only gently tighten them and use blue loctite. In order to remove the main spring(hammer spring), you have to depress the hammer strut on the main spring seat to compress the spring using the Sig armorer's tool. Once the hammer strut assembly is out, then you have to tap out the capturing roll pin to slide off the main spring. You can also replace the old style main spring assembly with the new style which has a smoother overall DA/SA trigger and is easier to work on. The new style was something to come out of the German engineers and it was incorportated in the mid 1990s. However, this is all really an armorer's job. You might be able to do it yourself, but you run the risk of installing your parts improperly or boogering up your gun. Having a local armorer do the work for you won't cost much at all, and you'll have the confidence to know that the job was done right and your gun won't be scared up. If Sigs interest you, a classic Sig pistol armorer's course runs for $400 and then you'll have the knowledge to do everything you want to the gun without damaging it. You'll also get to take apart various Sigs many times in the class so that you have the hands on knowledge.

There is a guy on Sigforum.com that sells a dvd that explains in detail how too strip a Sig down to it's frame. IIRC his name is Chris Orndorf. In the dvd he will show you how r&r every spring, pin etc. When you finish watching it you will almost be able to think of yourself as a Sig armourer. Well, almost.