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Thread: Scope Dope

  1. #1
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    Scope Dope

    I mark all my rifle stocks with the grain bullet I zeroed with but haven't done much with scope dope documentation on rifles with scopes.

    Normally, when hunting 4 legged game, I don't have a shot over 100 yards so I don't need any dope.

    This year I hunted two areas where I had shots of up to 400 yards and needed a reference on my rifle for making scope adjustments. I have all my scoped rifles setup in Strelok Pro, but I don't want to fumble with a phone or a book when in the field.

    I did this as a temp solution and am wondering how others on here handle documenting scope dope for their rifles?

    This rifle is a 6.5C AR10 so the scope BDC doesn't line up with the actual rifle. I prefer to dial in adjustments regardless as I have Strelok set up with the measured velocities of the bullets I am shooting.



    Do you document dope on your rifle?
    How do you do it and where do you put it?
    What max yards and increments do you use?

    Looking for ideas on what you do so I can standardize the best idea for my various rifles.
    Last edited by HKGuns; 11-21-23 at 09:18.

  2. #2
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    Yes, I do.
    I’ve used your method as well as taping DOPE inside Scope Cover lid, if info required is minimal.

    Oh, 50 yd increments has been sufficient to 500 yds +-
    And I’ve taped print out on off side of stock as well as receiver magwell.
    This for MIL Reticle Scopes.
    I’ve done same with “Ranging Reticle” Scopes using Strelok Data. My experience has been the Hash Marks are very seldom what they’re supposed to be.
    Last edited by gaijin; 11-21-23 at 09:33.
    A true "Gun Guy" (or gal) should have familiarity and a modicum of proficiency with most all firearms platforms.

  3. #3
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    I shoot a PRS and DMR matches. All my rifles with scopes, LPVO and red dots are all zeroed at 100 yards (even though I use mills) I use the Sttrelok app also. I also transpose all data to a book each gun has also been trued to the baseline and I have info on all to there max range. Range I belong to goes to 1250 yards. I do everything in 50 yard increments. I don’t really keep anything on the rifle I just check the book, take into account the max range Im shooting that day and make a quick reference chart if need be. I also might make a range card as a reference also. Don’t know if that helps or not. But you look like you have a good solution


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  4. #4
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    Take a look at TAB Gear's Dope Thing.
    https://www.tabgear.com/products/dope-thing

    Or if you have a spare QD socket this might be helpful.
    https://www.creedmoorsports.com/prod...ic-data-turret
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  5. #5
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    Thanks all for the information and suggestions. Diamondback, I looked at those, thanks for posting, I don't always have a sling with me so the velcro one isn't attractive. The QD slot one sticks out too much and would snag on something and break off my first use.

  6. #6
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    HK, my thought was finding a way to mount it the tab to a sling slot ON the rifle--I only use hook or QD slings anyway in case I need to quickly separate myself from the rifle.
    <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
    Ye best start believin' in Orwellian Dystopias, mateys... yer LIVIN' in one!--after Capt. Hector Barbossa
    Psalms 109:8, 43:1
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    I also do a lot of long range shooting, from PRS matches to long range hunting. For competition, i have Sidewinder dope cards that velcro to my actual chassis and are flexible so i can see them when behind the gun: https://www.shortactionprecision.com...pe-card-holder. I like these because i can make a specific card for each stage, that only has my dope for those distances, so there isn't too much information clutter. But you could keep easy dope from 200-1,000 in there for each rifle.

    For hunting, i use a quarterback arm band that has my specific dope for that gun out to 1,200 yards, including dope for 10mph wind holds. Like this https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p...3wndwwstcchftb

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondback View Post
    HK, my thought was finding a way to mount it the tab to a sling slot ON the rifle--I only use hook or QD slings anyway in case I need to quickly separate myself from the rifle.
    I have velcro dope cards attached to my actual rifles (on the stock or chassis). Short action Precision makes some, as do others. But there is a company that makes one that attaches to a pic rail, if you have a rail section on your rifle: https://www.mkmachining.com/product/...SABEgL2mvD_BwE

    I haven't seen one that attaches to a sling slot.

  9. #9
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    B Cart, my thought was try to creatively rerig the Velcro one linked above to run along the top of the stock, using some double-sided velcro as an extender to get it through a waffle or SOPMOD's "right under the tube" slot. Then again I HAVE been known to overengineer things... every house I designed in my architecture classes the interior walls were built like EXTERIORS and connected to reinforced studs spaced every 2', both for extra insulation and so that you could cut new doorways and re-divide rooms without worrying about knocking out a load-bearing wall because EVERY wall was bearing only 3/4 or less the load it was designed for.
    <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
    Ye best start believin' in Orwellian Dystopias, mateys... yer LIVIN' in one!--after Capt. Hector Barbossa
    Psalms 109:8, 43:1
    LIFE MEMBER - NRA & SAF; FPC MEMBER Not employed or sponsored by any manufacturer, distributor or retailer.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondback View Post
    B Cart, my thought was try to creatively rerig the Velcro one linked above to run along the top of the stock, using some double-sided velcro as an extender to get it through a waffle or SOPMOD's "right under the tube" slot. Then again I HAVE been known to overengineer things... every house I designed in my architecture classes the interior walls were built like EXTERIORS and connected to reinforced studs spaced every 2', both for extra insulation and so that you could cut new doorways and re-divide rooms without worrying about knocking out a load-bearing wall because EVERY wall was bearing only 3/4 or less the load it was designed for.
    haha that may just work. Post a pic if it turns out how you want!

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