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Thread: Safely removing Castle Nut

  1. #11
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    Heat-treated 1095 - now you're speaking my language. The only thing that sucks is that I have to get out the pins pinning the stock in a fixed position. Too bad there's not an open-mouthed version of the wrench.

  2. #12
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    wrap the receiver extension in leather, turn it so that the elongated part is resting against the vise as you'll torque on it (if you don't, it'll slide that way once you start anyway), tighten the vise to just barely tight enough to keep the part from popping out, and do your thing. remember, when you take off or install, the part needs to be turned in the vise, so that the elongated part is resting against the vise as you torque.

    i've recently decided that this is actually the only way i'll do castle nuts anymore.. it's the only method that doesn't run the risk of the RE rotating against the notch in the end-plate, gouging/damaging the index grove in the threads.

    and its the only method that doesn't require additional tools- so whats not to love?

  3. #13
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    Nuts! The Hammerhead ain't going to work. My stock is pinned to the receiver extension with two very small roll pins - they penetrate the left side of the stock, but the right side of the stock is a blank face, so I don't see any non-destructive way to extract them. I found a stock wrench on Brownell's that engages all four lugs on the castle nut, and has an open mouth so I can slip it over the RE, but the thing's $80. Yow!

  4. #14
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  5. #15
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    Lower Receiver Block?

    I figure on making a magwell insert out of oak. Any reason that wouldn't work?

    Trying to figure to make an upper holder the same way.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    That looks like a pretty useful tool.
    former cat herder

  7. #17
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    I had been using a small inexpensive wrench for castle nuts that only had one tooth. I primarily used it because the wrench for castle nuts on my one generic AR-15 multi tool didn't fit correctly and would only lock up with one tooth anyhow.

    Ordered a Hammerhead already--extremely fair price.

    Back to the topic at hand, do yourself a favor and buy the proper tools. While they are a rather large investment up front, they make assembling much much easier. As I've slowly acquired the proper tools, it's become more and more apparent.
    Last edited by stifled; 11-02-10 at 13:41.

  8. #18
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    .......
    Last edited by charmcitycop; 09-21-13 at 18:14.

  9. #19
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    The grain in oak is awfully straight for that sort of thing. tends to split easily right along it.

    If you're gonna go hardwood, mahogany or hickory. That said, I think you can get away with just making it out of the end of a 2x4, unless you're looking for longevity, in which case it makes more sense to buy a purpose-made block from Brownell's.
    Contractor scum, AAV

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Thanks all. I wound up going with the Spike's Tactical wrench and vise block. Seems to be the best bang for the buck. I ordered an OD Sully Stock as well. OD is the new black. Well, okay, it's the old black.

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