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Thread: Midlength barrel installed now having issues.

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hmac View Post
    Isn't 416R the steel that Noveske uses in their barrels?
    =======================

    Correct. From what I read, John Noveske stated "...416R, and it’s a lot harder than any stainless we’ve ever tested...". The "R" stands for a Rifle barrel quality.

    Googling "416 stainless" brings up a 'implications of 'low grade' in the definitons.

    Google "416R stainless" and it is another ball game with statements like, "...416R is a pre-hardened chromium stainless steel which is suitable for use in precision match-grade rifle..." .

    Quite a difference but to just state "416 SS" doesn't lead you to think it is "416R". Never-the-less, the barrel material is important, but so is the machining, heat treating, stress relieving, etc. and there's no way someone can do it ALL properly for a 1/3 the price.

    .

  2. #32
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    Actually there is something wrong, because the weapon will not function properly which is what brought us here. So something is causing the problem and since the weapon seemed to function fine before he swapped barrels I am inclined to think that it is the new barrel or the assembly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric D. View Post
    There is nothing wrong with your barrel, it will probably see you through thousands of rounds. What you have to ask yourself is what you want the rifle to do. For those of us that consider our rifles fighting weapons in a life or death situation, the close adherence to mil standards make some products much more desirable.

    As far as what makes one barrel better than another, you have to consider material, manufacturing process, and inspection. This thread describes why proper materials and inspection are important: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=55930
    There are very specific compositions of material that are acceptable by mil standards. This importance of having the correct material is compounded when the barrel is inspected (this is explained in detail in the thread above) Because if the proper material isn't used the barrel absolutely will not meet the acceptance criteria for HPT and MP inspection.

    Stainless barrels are typically more accurate because of the precision of the bore. Granted, standard barrels are made with the same precision, the difference is the addition of the chrome lining witch is very difficult to apply in a uniform coating. I'm not an accuracy nut and I don't ever see myself getting a stainless barrel, again it comes down to what you want the rifle to do.

    Several people will tell you that you're better off training with what you have rather than spending time, money and mental anguish on a particular brand of rifle. The first AR i bought was a BM. It was nice and never gave me any trouble but after perusing these forums a bit, I wouldn't trust my life to it. Also with the very real possibility of further firearm legislation, I want to be set with what I have and be ready for anything. I'm 20 years old so who knows what kind of socialistic hell I could see in my lifetime. For these reasons, BCM/Noveske/Daniel Defense are my go-to companies.



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  3. #33
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    When in doubt,

    Assume pilot error.

    I've had things like this happen with builds I've done in the past. I "thought" I had all my ducks in a row... but it was soon made apparent that I didn't.

    Personally think AR-15 rifle parts should come with a notice:

    "To assemble this correctly your IQ needs to be greater than your shoe size!"

  4. #34
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    The gun may be cycling, but I would make absolutely sure that I wasn't getting any more bullet setback. If you haven't determined this yet, you should stop shooting that rifle until you do.
    Last edited by spamsammich; 10-31-10 at 02:22.

  5. #35
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    How would you go about determining that without firing it?

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by btaksier View Post
    How would you go about determining that without firing it?
    Mic the round... Write down the length... Lock the bolt to the rear... Insert a fully loaded magazine... Point the rifle in a safe direction (ON A RANGE OR IN A FIRING BARREL)... Hit the bolt release chambering a round... Remove the magazine... Pull the charging handle to the rear ejecting the round from the chamber... Catch the round before it hits the deck... Mic the round... Compare the length before and after chambering... Repeat... Repeat... Repeat...
    Last edited by Buck; 10-31-10 at 12:57.
    MossieTactics.com ~ KMA 367

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buck View Post
    Mic the round... Write down the length... Lock the bolt to the rear... Insert a fully loaded magazine... Point the rifle in a safe direction (ON A RANGE OR IN A FIRING BARREL)... Hit the bolt release chambering a round... Remove the magazine... Pull the charging handle to the rear ejecting the round from the chamber... Catch the round before it hits the deck... Mic the round... Compair the length before and after chambering... Repeat... Repeat... Repeat...

    So if I do this and the rounds are ok it would tell me that my gas system was just loose and causing havoc?

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by btaksier View Post
    So if I do this and the rounds are ok it would tell me that my gas system was just loose and causing havoc?
    This will tell you for the ammunition that you tested, that the projectile is not being pushed back into the cartridge case during chambering causing a very dangerous overpressure situation which may in fact cause your rifle to explode whilst firing causing great bodily harm to the operator…
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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    Actually there is something wrong, because the weapon will not function properly which is what brought us here. So something is causing the problem and since the weapon seemed to function fine before he swapped barrels I am inclined to think that it is the new barrel or the assembly.
    Agreed, not the best phrasing I guess, my point is that many people can be perfectly satisfied with an average aftermarket barrel.

    Quote Originally Posted by Buck View Post
    Mic the round... Write down the length... Lock the bolt to the rear... Insert a fully loaded magazine... Point the rifle in a safe direction (ON A RANGE OR IN A FIRING BARREL)... Hit the bolt release chambering a round... Remove the magazine... Pull the charging handle to the rear ejecting the round from the chamber... Catch the round before it hits the deck... Mic the round... Compare the length before and after chambering... Repeat... Repeat... Repeat...
    I think a micrometer is a bit overkill, finding one the right size would be a task in itself since the most common are 1" An average caliper would be fine, hell I'd even go for a ruler graduated in 1/64's You could also try scribing a line at the base of the bullet just above the brass and see if it recedes into the casing. Just as a note, avoid chambering the same rounds more than 3-4 times.
    Last edited by Eric D.; 10-31-10 at 23:24.

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