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Thread: Trigger question

  1. #11
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    Here's what I did.

    Step 1. Tap the grip screw all the way through, most lowers aren't, so a 1/4x28 tap does the job.



    Step 2. Lighten up the hammer, simple deal, just grind off the tail of it.

    Before.


    After. Just use a lil black spray paint to cover the ground portion.


    Step 3. $15 set of JP springs.


    Step 4. This is the only part of the sear surfaces you touch. Before.


    After. There has been no change to the geometry of the trigger, and no grinding, only taking down the machining marks.


    My tool of choice for this is a ceramic knife sharpening stone. The surfaces are perfectly flat and it's such a fine grit that it feels smooth to the touch. It polishes, instead of grinding anything.


    Step 5. Add a $0.15 1/4x28 set screw with some locktite.


    Run it up the bore for the grip screw.



    Hold the trigger to the rear and cock the hammer so that it is captured by the disconnecter (which was not touched and is factory correct) and advance the set screw until it contacts the trigger.


    With the set screw contacting the trigger, release the trigger. Back out the set screw until the hammer falls from the disconnecter to the trigger.


    Now, let the locktite set up, then function test it. Try it on safe to make sure the trigger can't be pulled. Try it on fire to make sure the trigger can be pulled. Cock the hammer, and with the selector on fire, ram the stock into the ground a few times as hard as you think the rifle can take (hint, it's a lot more than you think) to make sure the hammer doesn't fall.

    Lube the FCG, and dry fire the crap outa it to make sure everything works. Revell in the amazing trigger you have created. Go to the range and shoot a thousand rounds or so just for kicks. Then shoot an AR with a stock factory trigger just to realise how much of an improvement you have made.

    At no point is any geometry changed. At no point is the disconnecter altered which may lead to doubling. The result is a light, crisp, fast trigger that runs pretty damn good for a minimal investment.

    If you do screw it up, throw it away, a FCG costs what? $50? Chump change when it comes to learning how to do something yourself, improving your own skills and understanding is priceless.
    Last edited by kwrangln; 10-30-10 at 00:09.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Mississippi
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    Kwrangln,

    How many rounds have you gone through with those JP reduced power springs in your AR? This is my personal experience with that particular spring kit so take this with a grain of salt but after installing mine (factory trigger group and I am certain it was installed correctly) I started getting light primer strikes after about 2000 rounds. Main ammo used was PMC Bronze. Lightening the hammer may compound this problem. Just something to look out for.

    -Jax


    "Despite what your mamma told you, violence does solve problems."
    -Ryan Job



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    "Elite" designations come from the things that you DO in life, and not from the things that you buy along the way. AC

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaxman7 View Post
    Kwrangln,

    How many rounds have you gone through with those JP reduced power springs in your AR? This is my personal experience with that particular spring kit so take this with a grain of salt but after installing mine (factory trigger group and I am certain it was installed correctly) I started getting light primer strikes after about 2000 rounds. Main ammo used was PMC Bronze. Lightening the hammer may compound this problem. Just something to look out for.

    -Jax
    Lightening the hammer should actually help avoid that problem. It's not just the hammers weight that provides a proper primer strike, but it's velocity. A heavy hammer takes heavier springs to achieve a certain velocity, lighter springs with the same hammer won't be traveling as fast. An object at rest stays at rest unless acted upon, yada yada yada. Lightening the hammer to match the lighter springs should make for a balanced system that is reliable.


    Just to add some credence, I got the idea after reading a thread involving Travis from MagPul and he said he was running the JP springs with a lightened hammer. If I recall, the thread was something along the lines of "how does he shoot so fast" or something. I've got a few spare hammers and triggers, along with spare springs, so if it starts acting up, it's only a couple pin pushes away from being replaced. For the time being, it's a damn awesome trigger and a joy to shoot. As a bonus it's less than $20 more than a DPMS LPK, so value wise it's a winner.

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