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Thread: Anti-Seize on Receiver Extension

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hmac View Post
    Any molybdenum-based grease will be fine. By seizing, they mean either oxidation (rust) or galling such as occurs with dissimilar metals. Since it's aluminum-on-aluminum, galling won't happen.
    Heh! Only steel and iron rust. Aluminum corrodes

  2. #12
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    The moly-Lithium grease is great on that, and other stuff (snare drum heads, etc.), if you're going to use anything that would be it.
    عندما تصبح الأسلحة محظورة, قد يملكون حظرون عندهم فقط
    کله چی سلاح منع شوی دی، یوازي غلوونکۍ یی به درلود
    Semper Fi
    "Being able to do the basics, on demand, takes practice. " - Sinister

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    Heh! Only steel and iron rust. Aluminum corrodes
    "Corrosion" of aluminum is the same process as "rust" on steel - oxidation.

  4. #14
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    Wound up picking up some break caliper and bearing grease by Valvoline - lithium based with molybdenum disulfide added. operating temp up to 375 deg.F. Sounds like it'll work. Thanks for the help.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hmac View Post
    "Corrosion" of aluminum is the same process as "rust" on steel - oxidation.
    Perhaps to a layman. But if I ever wrote "Rust found on cargo floor support at Sta. 727 + 4, Stringer 25" on the discrepancy form I'd be laughed out of the hangar because the support is made from aluminum

    According to the the FAA approved data I must use and which is based on established scientific and metallurgical standards, rust is defined as iron oxide.

    (There is another form of rust involving iron and I believe chlorine, but I don't recall the details)
    Last edited by MistWolf; 11-15-10 at 01:44.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hmac View Post
    "Corrosion" of aluminum is the same process as "rust" on steel - oxidation.
    oxidized aluminum is anodize- aluminum oxide. it doesn't eat through the aluminum, damaging the part. rust on steel might be iron oxide, like aluminum oxide, but it quickly ruins the part.

    might be similar on the surface, but thats where the similarity stops.

  7. #17
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    Now - how crucial is it to tighten an entry length tube to a specific torque? This is a little pre-mature since I don't have the parts or instructions in-hand yet, but I assume the entry length tube will have to be tightened using a similar torque to a rifle length tube (35 ft-lbs). My wrench cannot be fitted to a torque wrench, so instead, I was planning to figure out how much force I have to apply based on the moment arm of my wrench, and practice pushing on my bathroom scale, and then going on muscle memory. Stupid or reasonable?

  8. #18
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    The receiver extension tube on a Rifle is set at 35-39 ft lbs. The castle nut on a carbine is set at 38-42 ft lbs. Some of the old military rifle maintenance manuals have a typo on the carbine listing it at 40 +/- 2 in lbs, when it should be ft lbs.

    I use a moly grease and I like to work all of my threads by tightening and loosening 3 times before setting final torque. Some don't use grease when working threads, I do. Quite honestly I do not even use a torque wrench when doing this, or when setting final torque. I have very closely calibrated hands but I do this type of work a lot.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surf View Post
    The receiver extension tube on a Rifle is set at 35-39 ft lbs. The castle nut on a carbine is set at 38-42 ft lbs. Some of the old military rifle maintenance manuals have a typo on the carbine listing it at 40 +/- 2 in lbs, when it should be ft lbs.

    I use a moly grease and I like to work all of my threads by tightening and loosening 3 times before setting final torque. Some don't use grease when working threads, I do. Quite honestly I do not even use a torque wrench when doing this, or when setting final torque. I have very closely calibrated hands but I do this type of work a lot.
    INCH pounds for receiver extensions- not foot pounds.

  10. #20
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    Have you ever applied 40 inch pounds to a castle nut? I mean on an actual torque wrench? This equates to 3.3 ft lbs. I can nearly hand tighten to this spec. I use a 45 inch pound t-handle torque wrench on small scope rings. Even with a slight turn using a standard castle nut wrench I am already at around 10 ft lbs.

    In any event, the Colt manual calls for foot pounds. I have also talked to Ken Elmore about this and he also says ft lbs. Even since he has left Colt, Colt still gives and teaches this torque spec. I know for sure that I am nowhere near as low as 3.3 ft lbs or 40 in lbs.

    I had to search for it, but I have discussed it here before. Here is the thread. My discussion starts on page 2.
    https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=38672&page=2

    So, either the mil maintenance manuals are wrong, or Colt and Ken Elmore is wrong. Either way, I do not use a torque wrench when doing this and I know I am a good deal higher than 40 in lbs, plus or minus 2 inch pounds. Or maybe I like to go tight on things. I know that with a barrel nut, I like to be in or near the 65-70 ftlb range as opposed to the low end of the torque setting.

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