Making my G3 work

[tfltackdriver]

I tried the search function here, but most of the advice I found on this is two years old. Technology and fashion appear to have left me behind. I'm a weapon light noob, so forgive my greenness.

I bought a Surefire G3 (incandescent) three years ago for the backcountry adventures I make 2-3 times a year and for tac use in conjunction with a pistol. For these purposes, the out of the box configuration is great. For a weapon light, it has been suggested to me that the only thing useful that I can retain is the battery tube -- that I need to replace the lamp with an LED, new bezel and get a click switch for the back.

If this can be done inexpensively while maintaining the light output, I'm all for it. I like the light output in both the lumens (100-150) and concentration. I don't need anything that will survive reentry from outer space or that will melt a zombie with its lumens. The gist is, my light gets used and serves its purpose well as-is. If I can mod it to also work as a weapon light without completely changing the beast so that it doesn't work in its current role and without spending so much money that I'd be better off getting a second light, that's what I'm after.

If it can't be done inexpensively, what are my options for a second light.

[lovetashoot]

Like you, I have a G3 on the nightstand. For a second light, I carry a Surefire E1B backup. The output is within your requirements, there is also a clicky tailcap switch. I like the dual output (low and high) feature on this light. The bezel is mildly crenelated if ever it is needed as an impact weapon. I can carry it clipped in the pocket opposite where I keep my knife. The light operated on a single cell and is very light. The low output is great for general getting out of the deerstand/woods purposes. I also converted an old SF 6Z to LED with a SF KX4D-BK head conversion. This doesn't have the clicky switch, but I like it as well. A 6PDL Defender with this type of LED head is ~$100. A clicky switch can be added for another ~$35. I tend to stick with SF because of the customer service I have received from them. I've broken parts and they have quickly sent me free replacements.

[tfltackdriver]

I reread my post and it's really unclear.

I want to put the G3 on an AR build as a part-time weapon light while the rifle lives in the safe as a HD option.

Can I get away with it as-is? Do I have to get an LED lamp? If so, what's the least expensive option for a reliable LED lamp that keeps me in the 90-150 lumens range? If not, what's the least expensive option for a reliable switch in the back (either click on and off or something with a more positive on-off switch, even if it rotates like the current switch).

If I can't do this for a reasonable price and retain most of the G3s current characteristics as a standalone flashlight, what are my options?

[GlockWRX]

I think for mounting on a 5.56mm the standard light is fine. There are a lot of guys who run regular G2s with no problems. If it's on a shotgun or .308, you may have to swap out the head.

[Vorpal_weapon]

There are a couple of decent options for your G3.

1. You can go with a SF P60L - 80 Lumens - typical SF reliability - LED durability - similar output w/ much longer run-time. $29 from Oveready - probably the least expensive good option.

http://www.oveready.com/surefire-par.../prod_124.html

2. If you want more output, Malkoff Devices offers a number of quality drop-in options. I suggest you peruse the Malkoff website for details, but the gamut for M61 series is roughly 100, 175 & 260 lumens w/ run-times of about 10 hrs, 5 & 2 hours respectively (decreasing as output increases). Malkoff items are frequently out of stock on their website, but their drop-ins are available elsewhere. I just bought another Malkoff M61L (175 lumens w/ 5 hours full power out put) from Unique Titanium because they had them in stock. Oveready has M60 and M61 in stock as does Unique titanium.

If you get a full-power M60 (235 lumens w/focusing optic) or M61 (260 lumens) you'll need a metal Z44 bezel (available from Oveready, SKD, etc.).

If you want a clicky switch, SF makes Z48 (intended for weaponlights - has a rubber shroud) and Z58 - both are HA for durability - they also make the same switches in Blk type II anodizing) - These are like $43 & 45 respectively from Oveready (IIRC Z48 is $41 @ Brownells).

I like Z48 tailcaps - kind of bulky in the pocket, but great on a long-gun.

I use a G2 w/ M61 & Z48 on my shotgun in a Vltor scout mount - I'm very satisfied with the setup.

[english kanigit]

I still have my SF G3. It was used as a utility light when I ran heavy equipment for 3 years doing wind turbine construction. Beat the hell out of it too.

The only change I made was adding TNVC's Q5 lamp module. This has been several years ago and they may have an updated variant now. Light is still running strong after multiple drops 15 feet or more off of equipment, being buried in wet concrete a couple of times and generally being treated like crap.



Ain't a thing wrong with the older tech if it suites the need at hand.

Ek

[tfltackdriver]

Thanks for all these helpful responses! This is exactly what I was after.

[Skang]

For a Drop-In LED, i recommend Malkoff M61 or M61W

It has very nice spill/flood to it.

[msap]

If it were me, I'd just pick up the SF KX4 LED conversion head. I believe it's 120 lumens and you get the usual SF quality. You can get it direct from SF for $52.

[RD62]

For a Drop-In LED, i recommend Malkoff M61 or M61W

It has very nice spill/flood to it.

I'd recommend this too. I'd look for a metal bezel if you can find one, it'll help dissipate the heat from the LED better. I'd keep the factory tail cap.

This is how I run two of mine.

Great output and runtime. Reasonable cost.