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Whether or not its the source of your actual problem; the upgraded extractors can't do anything but help in my opinion. Your ejection issues could be several things but a couple of things you could check.
Look for anything that might be slowing down or hanging up the bolt during its cycle. Most of the 10/22 receivers are painted these days. Check that there isn't a lot of overspray on the inside of the receiver. If there is I would sand it out so its smooth. Also take a look at your charging handle in general or more specifically your guide rod. Many times they will be somewhat rough with burs that could be slowing down the action. You can either polish the rod or go with one of the slicked up aftermarket units such as.
http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchan...gory_Code=BBuf
Hope it helps.
Last edited by Icculus; 03-26-13 at 12:23.
Originally Posted by d90king
Thanks for the suggestions. I have read the problem is NOT the extractor, but that the upgraded extractor overcomes the actual problem(s). My models are my friends' are either stainless or compact, so they should be immune to the paint on the inside of the receiver problem I read about the basic/Walmart model. From memory, I don't think mine had issues with MiniMags, so perhaps those overcame the same problem(s) that a better extractor would. Anyhow, as above, I feel it's the best platform due to the ubiquity and support. I like the robust removable magazine. The skinny mags on Marlins and Rems, etc. look like they'd be prone to problems if the rifle is bumped on them. I've had a few tube 22s which were good shooters, however training with detachable mags is important to me.
"Men speak of natural rights, but I challenge any one to show where in nature any rights existed or were recognized until there was established for their declaration and protection a duly promulgated body of corresponding laws." --Calvin Coolidge
Although I never had a failure to extract, I did a lot of work on my 10-22.
First thing I did was strip the receiver, sand it and polish it. I upgraded the bolt to a Kidd bolt (with VQ extractor) with a Kidd recoil spring and rod and a Kidd buffer. The thing runs like a sewing machine.
If my 10-22 wasn't running right, FTE, first thing I'd do would be to send the bolt off to Que Boltworks . For $65 he will polish it, radius it, square the face, pin the firing pin, set the headspace, and install a VQ extractor. Money well spent.
The Ruger 10-22 is very average until you start modding it out.
If you want a super accurate 22 right off the shelf, go grab one of the Remington22LR bolt guns made in the 50s-70s. The Models 510, 511, 512 and 514. I'd also throw in the 550 semi-auto.
All of these can be had for around 100 bucks or so in a pawn shop. All are made of steel, wood and no pot metal or cast parts. All have decent sights and triggers. All are pretty accurate...more so if you mount a scope on them.
I have a 10-22 that is lightly modded buy my Remington 511, 512 and 550 are much more accurate and fun to shoot.
I also have a Winchester Model 63, Winchester Model 62 pump and an S&W M&P-15-22. Love them all.
Bad thing is ...man... 22LR ammo is REAL HARD to find around here and has been for the past 3.5 months. The 9mm and 223 seems to be coming back to the shelves as are the ARs but no rimfire ammo anywhere. Why is this?
-brickboy240
Even on the "stainless" models its only the barrels that are stainless before they are painted. The receivers are aluminum and painted silver so they still can have paint on the inside.
Mine loves MiniMags and so that's pretty much as high as I go in the premium .22lr ammo world. Luckily for me it also shoots Federal bulk pack just about as well. Every rifle is different though. Just stay away from the Winchester 333 hollow point boxes. That stuff is crap.
ETA: I guess I should correct myself a touch. Depending on age I guess its possible that if you have an older 10/22 the receiver could be annodized in which case you are correct that it wouldn't be painted. Of course its still aluminum and not "stainless"The newer stainless models have a crinkle coat silver paint while I think some stainless models back in the day had a clear coat over the bare aluminum. Not sure of years of production but its been silver paint for a while.
Last edited by Icculus; 03-26-13 at 15:05.
Originally Posted by d90king
Step your game up and go for a John Moses Browning design, preferably one made in Belgium. But even the Jap made versions are better than a 10/22, unless we're talking a VQ or Kidd version.
Browning SA-22.
Personally, I own a 10-22 which is adorned with a Tasco 4-12 scope. It's a decent rifle, given its limitations.
However, the most accurate .22 rifle I own is an $80 bolt-action Romanian .22 trainer. Do a Google search and you'll find a picture. It's got flip-up sights set at 25, 50, and 100 yards accompanied by a hooded front sight. I have to say, it's a tack-driver out to about 75 yards.
I was lucky enough to obtain three five-round magazines for it (they're impossible to find nowadays) and I absolutely love it. If given the choice, I'd grab the Romanian over the 10-22 any day.
A man with a gun is a citizen. A man without a gun is a subject.
I already have a John Browning designed 22 rifle.
The Model 62 Winchester is basically an 1890 Winchester with a different stock and sights - round barrel versus octagon. Same basic action.
...and yeah...a Browning designed 22 rifle IS a great thing!
LOL
-brickboy240
"Men speak of natural rights, but I challenge any one to show where in nature any rights existed or were recognized until there was established for their declaration and protection a duly promulgated body of corresponding laws." --Calvin Coolidge
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