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Thread: Broken BAD Lever and Resulting Problems

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil Bert View Post
    I prefer the Phase5 as it is a single piece and replaces the BHO altogether. Of course I run a Magpul BAD as well on one of my guns. I think the Phase5 wins out in this situation.

    @OP - You should look at the Phase5 here
    One piece, is it steel or aluminum? An aluminum bolt catch sounds unlikely, a steel lever sounds heavy, even with cutouts. It appears to be two parts assembled with adhesive. Personally I'll go with bolted versus glued.
    Peace, Jerry

    I don't drink the koolaid

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    No, or I wouldn't have posted it.

    there are people out there with the concerns I posted about all of those devices. Their opinions are only a strong resume, or a flashy video series (or both), away from being mainstream. I don't share them, but there are those that do.
    It is apples and oranges, though. RDS over irons is incremental advantage for most shooters, and for all shooters in low/no light; WML is a difference between being blind and being able to see.
    BAD vs. no BAD is arguably non-incremental speed advantage; I think that you had posted that, outside of Redi-Mag use, there is a barely perceptible difference in speed reload.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fireglock View Post
    One piece, is it steel or aluminum? An aluminum bolt catch sounds unlikely, a steel lever sounds heavy, even with cutouts. It appears to be two parts assembled with adhesive. Personally I'll go with bolted versus glued.
    Based on what I've read about it elsewhere on this forum, I'm pretty sure the Phase 5 is only one piece and that there's no adhesive holding anything together. That green spot you see is only there for cosmetic reasons.
    Steve

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
    Based on what I've read about it elsewhere on this forum, I'm pretty sure the Phase 5 is only one piece and that there's no adhesive holding anything together. That green spot you see is only there for cosmetic reasons.
    Pretty impressive machining. Back to my question, steel or aluminum? It also looks like a lot of machining for a "beauty" mark. But then again maybe that's part of the appeal. Surely someone has one and could give something other than hearsay information on it's construction. I'm not really down on the unit, just the implication it's machined from one piece of material. Their website list it as "monolithic", that's subject to interpretation. I guess it's not an issue really, I've had no issues with BAD levers. In fact I put one on my SD-15 SBR and due to the shape of the billet lower had to cut the BAD lever to allow full stroke. We've banged it around pretty good and no troubles yet, but then again we haven't seen it strike the lever with the full weight of the SBR focused on it.
    Peace, Jerry

    I don't drink the koolaid

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nest View Post
    Liking my BAD lever so far. Reading this made me aware that I need to keep the torx wrench with my rifle though. Never thought of it before. I keep my earplugs in my grip so I never worry about forgetting them, but there should be room for a couple little allen and torx wrenches.
    That's why I like the VLTOR EMOD stock since the little compartment in the stock holds a little torx wrench nicely--I use a plastic bag to keep it from rattling.

    "Addressing the problem of shootings by ban or confiscation of non-criminal's guns is like addressing the problem of rape by chopping off the Johnson of everyone who DIDN't rape anyone while not only leaving the rapists' equipment intact, but giving them free viagra to boot." --Me

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fireglock View Post
    Pretty impressive machining. Back to my question, steel or aluminum? It also looks like a lot of machining for a "beauty" mark. But then again maybe that's part of the appeal. Surely someone has one and could give something other than hearsay information on it's construction. I'm not really down on the unit, just the implication it's machined from one piece of material. Their website list it as "monolithic", that's subject to interpretation. I guess it's not an issue really, I've had no issues with BAD levers. In fact I put one on my SD-15 SBR and due to the shape of the billet lower had to cut the BAD lever to allow full stroke. We've banged it around pretty good and no troubles yet, but then again we haven't seen it strike the lever with the full weight of the SBR focused on it.
    Here's an older post I found from someone with firsthand experience with the Phase 5 and it states it's only 1 piece. Unfortunately we still don't know what it's made of.

    Quote Originally Posted by Norcal911 View Post
    I'm pretty sure I'm the co-worker he's talking about. I'm thinking too strong a bolt catch spring?? Or maybe I've got a burr in there somewhere or just a slightly out of spec spring, plunger, lower, or bent pin? Phase V has had about the best CS I've ever run into trying to help me through the problem. I really like the part; one piece, perfect positioning, etc etc, I just need it to work. We've been racking our brains on this and we think maybe its a harmonics issue. There is some sort of very small vibration that is happening during the recoil of that last round not letting it engage the bolt. I have a few more ideas before I quite, I really want to make the part work. Anybody having similar issues? I haven't used the BAD but from a parts and pieces point of view, I like the idea of the EBRv2 being one part instead of a bolt on to the original bolt catch. FYI, the gun is an LMT MRP 18"-Norcal911
    Here's the link to the entire thread:

    https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=41298
    Steve

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickdrak View Post
    A little "apples to oranges" don't ya think?



    Yep, Yep, Yep & Yep. I explained above why I personally chose not to run a BAD anymore.
    Yep, apples to oranges. Some people just don't like it, when you don't share their opinion, and feel that their needs should be the same as everyone else's.
    Last edited by Jimbo45; 02-23-11 at 19:05.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ucrt View Post
    =============================

    EB,
    What hold the EBR to the Bolt Catch? It looks like it is glued or epoxied.

    Thanks

    .
    The Phase 5 EBRv2 is held to the bolt catch by a TIG weld on 3 sides, afterwards it is re-heat treated and an epoxy is added to the cut out for a strictly visual effect.

    You can see the weld in the following pic.



    I've used 3 different versions of the Phase 5 EBRv2 now and the current version is the best of the bunch. I had an issue with the first version not locking back the bolt on the last round, but it was replaced by Phase 5 and I haven't had an issue since on two AR's. Great company to deal with and in my experience an excellent product.

  9. #39
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    Interesting kwrangln, thanks for the info.
    Peace, Jerry

    I don't drink the koolaid

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwrangln View Post
    The Phase 5 EBRv2 is held to the bolt catch by a TIG weld on 3 sides, afterwards it is re-heat treated and an epoxy is added to the cut out for a strictly visual effect.

    You can see the weld in the following pic.

    I've used 3 different versions of the Phase 5 EBRv2 now and the current version is the best of the bunch. I had an issue with the first version not locking back the bolt on the last round, but it was replaced by Phase 5 and I haven't had an issue since on two AR's. Great company to deal with and in my experience an excellent product.
    ==================================

    Thanks for the picture and reply. I really wouldn't have had a problem with it being glued, seeing how they glue bicycles and airplanes together nowadays. But a TIG weld is about as solid as you can get.

    Thanks.

    .
    Last edited by ucrt; 02-23-11 at 19:36.

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