Reloading the AR15 Carbine?

[Shootin_Dave]

I am new to this Forum and just started reloading because of our current political situtation. I have been shooting 40 plus years and have found on the internet a lot of reloading information on .224; but not much information specifically on the Ar15. The website Loaddata.com (which cost a yearly fee) has been the best information I have found.

If anyone can direct me to information more specifically tward the AR15, it would be greatly appreciated. Also any threads or posts that will help.
Thanks Shootin_Dave

[HolyRoller]

www.nationalmatch.us is where to go for accurate AR loads. $1/round for Black Hills Red Box 77gr match ammo is a quick way to bankruptcy for highpower shooters, and 77gr bullets are at their best at 200-300 yards. Lotsa luck finding ANYbody who factory-loads 600-yard cartridges that need extra-length 75-90gr bullets that won't fit in the magazine. Hunting or varmint loads, well, maybe you can use match bullets for those too.

I use 24gr Reloder 15 for my 77gr handloads and 25gr for the 75 AMAX. These loads work fine in my 8:1 twist DPMS match AR and my 9:1 twist S&W patrol carbine, but remember, the AMAXes are beyond mag length and must be single loaded.

How I got started in reloading was just doing what the Speer manual said. I haven't blown myself up yet but I did break a bolt stop on my old Rem 788 due to not knowing about the need to trim rifle brass and then hammering the bolt open. Now I trim brass! RCBS small-base X-Dies that keep brass from lengthening are HIGHLY recommended.

[Shootin_Dave]

I am very gratefull for your time and effort in replying to my questions. Your information is very helpful.
Thanks Again,
Shootin_Dave

[jmart]

What type of loads are trying to duplicate? Different bullet weights dictate different powders/burn rates and different charges.

[Shootin_Dave]

I am hoping to reload for plinking, hunting, and match. I am also interested in the lower grain bullets and how they work with varnmets. I have the Hornady #6 manual.
I would like to be able to safely learn how to re-use alot of the military brass that I have saved. I have a lot of TZZ brass, which came from the M8 55 Green tip. Basically I just want to start the right way, safely, and find the information that pretains to the AR15 16" Wilson barrel 1-9: twist and other types of AR15's. There is a lot of information about the 223 Rem, or 233win, and lots of information about the 233 round pertaining to specific rifles with barrel & twist rates. I am just starting and generally want to make sure the information I use, is OK with my AR15's. The IMR 4198 and Vargett seem to be the most widely used for the .224 projectiles from what I have found.

Any help in any area would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks David Blevins

[jmart]

I am hoping to reload for plinking, hunting, and match. I am also interested in the lower grain bullets and how they work with varnmets. ...... I am just starting and generally want to make sure the information I use, is OK with my AR15's. The IMR 4198 and Vargett seem to be the most widely used for the .224 projectiles from what I have found.

Any help in any area would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks David Blevins

If concentrating on lower bullet weights I'd suggest you ditch the 4198 and Varget and switch to a ball powder. AA2230, H335, Ramshot XTerminator. Especially if you are dispensing powder through a measure rather than weighing and dropping through a funnel. The ball powders meter more consistently and you won't get any bridging/powder spills. AA and Ramshot powders will also save you some $$.

When you say "match" then you might want to try Varget, 4895 (either variety)or RL-15, those are a couple of popular powders with heavier weight bullets, but if using light 52-55 grain match bullets, just stay with my previous recommendation. Another popular ball powder for mid-weight (68-69 grain) match loads is WW748, but it can be temp sensitive, so don't work up a max load when it's cool and then shoot the same load in the summer heat. You'll have pressure problems.

Your .mil brass, you realize you'll need to remove the primer crimp, correct? Just making sure if you are starting out that you realize.

[PALADIN-hgwt]

xxxxx

[toddackerman]

If concentrating on lower bullet weights I'd suggest you ditch the 4198 and Varget and switch to a ball powder. AA2230, H335, Ramshot XTerminator. Especially if you are dispensing powder through a measure rather than weighing and dropping through a funnel. The ball powders meter more consistently and you won't get any bridging/powder spills. AA and Ramshot powders will also save you some $$.

When you say "match" then you might want to try Varget, 4895 (either variety)or RL-15, those are a couple of popular powders with heavier weight bullets, but if using light 52-55 grain match bullets, just stay with my previous recommendation. Another popular ball powder for mid-weight (68-69 grain) match loads is WW748, but it can be temp sensitive, so don't work up a max load when it's cool and then shoot the same load in the summer heat. You'll have pressure problems.

Your .mil brass, you realize you'll need to remove the primer crimp, correct? Just making sure if you are starting out that you realize.

Regarding Ball Powders...I
ve used WW 748 Powder with great succes in powder flow through the measure and "Very Accuarate" loads in .308 and .223.

My recipe for a 1/7 twist 16" barrel in 5.56mm chamber is:

55 Gn Hornady FMJBT with cannelure
Mil Brass
WW Small Rifle Primers
27.2 gns. of WW 748 Ball Powder

Sub MOA groups, and the load I use for training.

Just my .02 cents worth.

Tack

[toddackerman]

When decapping .mil style crimped in primers I highly suggest using a separate dedicated HEAVY DUTY decapper. RCBS pins break with disheartening frequency, and are a PITA to fix. I used a Lee 444 Marlin sizer die for such duties(pin "slips" rather than bends"), although there are better options these days.

Last year I just had a commercial brass processor do a 4K order for me rather than spend the considerable time and effort dealing with the primer pocket reaming also needed.

Paladin

+1

www.scharch.com is where I get my Mil "Processed Brass" which includes resizing, decapping, primer pockets swaged, trimmed, deburred and tumbled clean.

The prices just like anything with 5.56mm are getting outrageous. This brass was around $55/ 1,000 the last time I bought it 1.5 years ago. I think it is around $80/ 1000 now. But it's grat to get it and take it right to your press, AND you never have to worry about primer pocket swaging!

Tack

[Shootin_Dave]

Thanks for your responce. I am really impressed with the amount of help I have recieved. The tip on the brass is great! Would you know where to find some 40gr FMJ's and other FMJ grain bullets for the .224? I did not see a reply link for the responce from "smart", so to him: I really appreciate all this advice. I have already made some of the common mistakes, but all this helps.
Thanks David Blevins