$300 budget 1-4x or 1.?-6x illuinated Scope?

[Dualspringfields]

Well thats how I do it with my long guns/sniper rifles. Haven't put an actual scope on a AR yet. I just have a AimPoint but I did do that the same way. I see what your talking about if it's an AR or AK. I have levels on my scope mounts on the sniper rifles. I have been told by men that I know know how to shoot (Ex Army snipers & Marine snipers) that the more level the rifle is the more accurate it will be. I have found this to be true. Im sure there are quiet a few methods out there. Hell I even have a couple tools used in leveling up the retile with the rifle. Good for the field. Me myself I fell that putting a sight with variable mag on a M4 type/style weapon is like pissin in the wind. It's a battle rifle not a precision weapon. Im sure there are reasons for putting one of these scopes on a M4 besides just wanting to. With that said I'll be getting one for one of my M4's soon. Why after I said I dont see the need? Beats me. I guess cause I want to. Some people just like to knock other people's methods and ideas to the dirt just because they can. It's ok it's the cyber world. Cyber Ninjas ATTACK!

[Belmont31R]

Nice Xfire68.

Canted? How so? If the weapon is level,the mount is level and u level the scope in the mount/rings. How does it get canted?

You are relying on the external dimesions of the scope being exactly true to how the inner workings of the scope operate.


Im not saying it won't work but its putting faith in the external dimensions matching up directly with how the scope tracks. Like if you do a box test...shoot one group, drop down 4MOA/1.5mils, shoot a group, go right 4/1.5, shoot a group, go up 4/1.5, shoot a group, go left 4/1.5. If you zero it to how the scope actually works it will be true to the scope not the turret. If you rely on the turret, and its off from how it tracks when you dial in clicks its going to be moving the POA/reticle at an angle.


If you mount it with the top of the turret you'll probably be ok...but maybe not.

[Belmont31R]

I don't know, either, maybe Belmont will enlighten us...

In my limited experience, mounting a scope "level" isn't as scientific or exact a process. Most shooters don't hold their rifles perfectly level, so it's kind of pointless to make the scope level when the rifle is level.

What I did: mount the scope loosely in the rings, and then shoulder the rifle (it's empty, right?!) and look at a horizontal line (I used the eve of my garage).
Twist the scope until the crosshairs are parallel with the horizontal line. Lower rifle, and then try again. When it's right, tighten the rings.

Wow. Sounds like a real precise method you got there....

[Bimmer]

You are relying on the external dimesions of the scope being exactly true to how the inner workings of the scope operate.

C'mon, bubble levels aren't that "exactly" precise, anyway.

And if a scope doesn't do well in a "box test," then there isn't much point to getting the scope exactly level, anyway.

As for my method... admittedly it's not very "precise" in that no instruments are used, but it gets the scope level when I'm shooting, which is what counts, right?

[Belmont31R]

C'mon, bubble levels aren't that "exactly" precise, anyway.

And if a scope doesn't do well in a "box test," then there isn't much point to getting the scope exactly level, anyway.

As for my method... admittedly it's not very "precise" in that no instruments are used, but it gets the scope level when I'm shooting, which is what counts, right?

No its to check when you dial in changes on the scope R means R and not right and a little bit down. Granted theres no surefire way to level a scope to the gun. A bubble method as listed is what some people recommend. I prefer making sure the scope tracks correctly. Using a square against the bottom flat is what I use to get it rough, and then double check at the range.


As far as shouldering the gun to check as you are doing its really only important to ensure correct tracking if you are dialing in changes. You can mount the scope so the reticle makes an X instead of a + and it will still be accurate if you zero it. Changes to the turret will just mean the reticle moves at an odd angle.


But use whatever works for you guys. Everyone has their own little ways of doing things. Just pointing out using the top of the turret with a bubble level can cause cant from level.



ETA: Also forgot to say most quality scopes will have the turrets pretty accurate to the tracking. I wouldn't trust your random china scope to be in near pefect alignment with tracking and turret position on the tube.

[Bimmer]

No its to check when you dial in changes on the scope R means R and not right and a little bit down...

You can mount the scope so the reticle makes an X instead of a + and it will still be accurate if you zero it. Changes to the turret will just mean the reticle moves at an odd angle...

I'm afraid that telling you this might blow your mind, but I purposefully mounted the scope for my M14 rotated 90° counter-clockwise, so that the turrets are to the left and up, rather than up and to the right.
(I and a lot of guys do this because we don't want the spent cartridges hitting the right side turret, or the right turret getting in the way of accessing the action.)

So, "up" means left, and "down" means right, and "right" means up, and "left" means down.

Like you said, it's accurate anyways...

[Belmont31R]

I'm afraid that telling you this might blow your mind, but I purposefully mounted the scope for my M14 rotated 90° counter-clockwise, so that the turrets are to the left and up, rather than up and to the right.
(I and a lot of guys do this because we don't want the spent cartridges hitting the right side turret, or the right turret getting in the way of accessing the action.)

So, "up" means left, and "down" means right, and "right" means up, and "left" means down.

Like you said, it's accurate anyways...

As long as you know how it works then its fine. People sometimes rotate the Aimpoint's 90 degrees, too.

[ucrt]

I'm afraid that telling you this might blow your mind, but I purposefully mounted the scope for my M14 rotated 90° counter-clockwise, so that the turrets are to the left and up, rather than up and to the right.
(I and a lot of guys do this because we don't want the spent cartridges hitting the right side turret, or the right turret getting in the way of accessing the action.)

So, "up" means left, and "down" means right, and "right" means up, and "left" means down.

Like you said, it's accurate anyways...

=======================================

Years ago, I belonged to range and some guy was a few benches down was just a ranting and raving, shooting, rant/raving,.... After a while I went and asked him what the problem was. He said he had just bought the Marlin 30-30 and the scope, had it mounted and bore-sighted and had shot a whole box of ammo and it still wasn't sighted-in. He showed me his target and his shots were all over the place.

I asked him to show me what he was doing.

Talk about a noob...the shop had (ignorantly) mounted the scope like you posted above but this guy was still using the now Windage adjustment as Elevation because it was marked Up/Down.
When I told him what was wrong...I'm glad he was out of ammo...he was livid.

I hated to laugh but it was pretty funny.

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[Alaskapopo]

For that price point I would go non-illuminated and get a Leupold Mark AR 1.5x4. You will get a better American manufactured scope with better glass and great customer service. If you try to go illuminated for that much money you are going to give up a lot elsewhere.

PS. an additional thought. If you are set on illuminated I would take a serious look at Leupolds new VX-R 1.25-4x20 with the Fire dot reticle. It's about $100 bucks more but there are some nice reviews on it in this forum.

Low end Leupold's are not made in the USA.
Pat

[30 cal slut]

if anyone is interested, i have a brand new one available for $500 listed in the equipment exchange forum. lifetime transferable warranty.

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Meopta is a popular scope for competition. They are coming out with a new model in the next few months (it's 4-months overdue already). I reckon the older models will be sold by people wanting the newer model. Right now, a new Meopta sells for right at $800, I'd think you should be able to pick up a nice used one for $550-$650 when the new ones come out.

While you're saving up, start looking through some different scope and see what's available. Keep looking and be ready to pounce because good used scopes don't last long on EE.

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