Is the Scout light becoming obsolete?

[Belmont31R]

Ok.....why?

With a mount like the Gear Sector you can get the light really close to the rail in an ideal position. Ive tried the 12' mounting of a X300 and its not for me....especially since 2/3 of the main guns I shoot have URX rails, and I don't want to lose the built in buis functionality nor buy another sight to make it work. I then also don't want to have to buy another tail cap thingy to run a tape switch.


The Scout light you can also change the head to the Vampire if I ever get around to running any NV stuff.


The Scout has a great many mounting options, activation options, head units, ect. The X300 is great for the 12' mounting but Im not into that. I love the way the scout with the GS mount huges the 1:30 position on the rail, and the SR07 switch works great from either side. An X300 would not improve on any of this, and cause some loss of functionality. If an X300 works for what you need the light to do then get that.

[pointblank4445]

With a mount like the Gear Sector you can get the light really close to the rail in an ideal position. Ive tried the 12' mounting of a X300 and its not for me....especially since 2/3 of the main guns I shoot have URX rails, and I don't want to lose the built in buis functionality nor buy another sight to make it work. I then also don't want to have to buy another tail cap thingy to run a tape switch.


The Scout light you can also change the head to the Vampire if I ever get around to running any NV stuff.


The Scout has a great many mounting options, activation options, head units, ect. The X300 is great for the 12' mounting but Im not into that. I love the way the scout with the GS mount huges the 1:30 position on the rail, and the SR07 switch works great from either side. An X300 would not improve on any of this, and cause some loss of functionality. If an X300 works for what you need the light to do then get that.

Belmont, this is the kind of input i'm looking for. I've always been kind of luke-warm toward my current light setup, and i've "rocked around the clock" with my X300 at 3,6,9,and 12 and have pretty much found pros and cons for all. I've always kind of discounted it because I run a shorter rail and feared a "classic" shaped light would compromise my grip. I think the Scout maybe something to consider with the longer rails i'm playing with. Again, thanks for the input

[Belmont31R]

Belmont, this is the kind of input i'm looking for. I've always been kind of luke-warm toward my current light setup, and i've "rocked around the clock" with my X300 at 3,6,9,and 12 and have pretty much found pros and cons for all. I've always kind of discounted it because I run a shorter rail and feared a "classic" shaped light would compromise my grip. I think the Scout maybe something to consider with the longer rails i'm playing with. Again, thanks for the input

They work really good with the longer rails and the SR07 switch. You can get a fully ambidextrous setup, and with the GS mount the light rides high up yet tucked against the rail really nicely. Another benefit to the longer rail setup is the further forward the light is the less barrel shadow you get.

I have this same setup on my SR15, too, which has a 10 3/4" rail. This one is 12".


Side:



Top:



Hand position normal:



Hand position weak side:

[Ironman8]

Belmont,

Got a few questions,

1) How focused is the beam on the scout light? Is it focused enough to ID targets out at distance? How far?

2) What kind of tape switch setup is that? Is it the one included with the light?

3) How easy is it to AD the light with a tape switch? That's really the only real reason I don't run one currently...I figure a push button setup has less chance of AD

The application for this setup is for an SBR for HD use at CQB distances....however I would like the capability to ID targets at distance...just in case

EDIT: Is yours the mini scout or the M600C?

[Belmont31R]

1. At least 50 yards. But your definition of ID'ing a target may be different than mine.


2. SR07. No its not.


3. The SR07 requires more force to activate than the regular tape switch, and the constant on/off button is protected (little round button the back). I was worried about AD of light, too, but it hasn't happened yet. You can always twist the end cap on the light so it wont activate. It only needs maybe a half turn to where it won't turn on. I experimented with an X300, and with the knobs on the back I AD'd it many times around the house. On the couch, resting it against a wall, ect.


4. Its the full size Scout with LED head.

[kcmo83]

Combat arms .mil perspective: I/we much prefer the Scout-style light due to its weight, focused throw and bomb-proof tailcap. I personally have experimented with X300s/TLRs as long-gun lights extensively and like the compact design and light weight, but I abhor the toggle switch. It is great for not having to drastically change hand position, and ambidextrous actuation, however I have experienced NDs when: storing it in a case, shooting asymmetric positions, and going hands-off, while the weapon is slung (by knocking into/bumping something, etc...). I simply have a myriad of experiences which contraindicate the use of a toggle switch for serious use.

Coming from the .mil side, where simplicity and ruggedness rule, the 'clickie' tailcap will be forever loved by those who carry long guns routinely. Weapon lights should stay off when not needed and turn on when you want them to, all the while being intuitive and simple. (Try walking through a palm grove or orchard with a tape switch during hours of limited visibility, only to have it suddenly get snagged and torn off.)

Therefore, my opinion driven from my personal experiences- toggle actuated lights (X300/TLR1/2/3) simply remain a less-optimal design for long guns that see multi-environmental hard use (day/night etc...).

All that said, take my experiences for what they are, as they may/may not apply to your needs/requirements.

[Belmont31R]

Combat arms .mil perspective: I/we much prefer the Scout-style light due to its weight, focused throw and bomb-proof tailcap. I personally have experimented with X300s/TLRs as long-gun lights extensively and like the compact design and light weight, but I abhor the toggle switch. It is great for not having to drastically change hand position, and ambidextrous actuation, however I have experienced NDs when: storing it in a case, shooting asymmetric positions, and going hands-off, while the weapon is slung (by knocking into/bumping something, etc...). I simply have a myriad of experiences which contraindicate the use of a toggle switch for serious use.

Coming from the .mil side, where simplicity and ruggedness rule, the 'clickie' tailcap will be forever loved by those who carry long guns routinely. Weapon lights should stay off when not needed and turn on when you want them to, all the while being intuitive and simple. (Try walking through a palm grove or orchard with a tape switch during hours of limited visibility, only to have it suddenly get snagged and torn off.)

Therefore, my opinion driven from my personal experiences- toggle actuated lights (X300/TLR1/2/3) simply remain a less-optimal design for long guns that see multi-environmental hard use (day/night etc...).

All that said, take my experiences for what they are, as they may/may not apply to your needs/requirements.

Thus the cable is zip tied to the rail, and the SR07 itself is pretty secure on the rail.

[kcmo83]

Please don't take my post as an attack or that tape-switches/pressure switches are not totally viable. My primary intent was to convey for the OP that 1) The M300a/M600c are preferred over the X300 type series, mainly due to the switching methodology employed in pistol-type lights, and 2) to relay what worked for me and mine overseas. I see the merits of running pressure switches, especially when weapons begin to fill up with lights/lasers/vfg's, etc..., however my experiences have led me to the conclusion that the 'clickies' contribute less to white-light NDs, are more rugged, less of a snag hazard, etc...

I'm sure someone could go to certain lengths to ensure that a pressure switch performs as desired, however, even a ziptie does not prevent eventual damage caused from the wires being bent at steep angles and the actual 'plug-in' connector from becoming possibly damaged in the event of snags, drops, mud/grit/dust etc... As pressure switches improve (with the newer SR07 and the like), I see them becoming a durable option as well. Again, no offense intended, I'm just expounding upon my experiences and how they applied to me.

[ALCOAR]

Great pics Belmont...a scout in a GS mount is unbeatable Ive found. I found a SR07 for $55 that will be here on Monday so I look forward to finally trying that way overpriced piece of kit out.

[Belmont31R]

Please don't take my post as an attack or that tape-switches/pressure switches are not totally viable. My primary intent was to convey for the OP that 1) The M300a/M600c are preferred over the X300 type series, mainly due to the switching methodology employed in pistol-type lights, and 2) to relay what worked for me and mine overseas. I see the merits of running pressure switches, especially when weapons begin to fill up with lights/lasers/vfg's, etc..., however my experiences have led me to the conclusion that the 'clickies' contribute less to white-light NDs, are more rugged, less of a snag hazard, etc...

I'm sure someone could go to certain lengths to ensure that a pressure switch performs as desired, however, even a ziptie does not prevent eventual damage caused from the wires being bent at steep angles and the actual 'plug-in' connector from becoming possibly damaged in the event of snags, drops, mud/grit/dust etc... As pressure switches improve (with the newer SR07 and the like), I see them becoming a durable option as well. Again, no offense intended, I'm just expounding upon my experiences and how they applied to me.

Ive used a tape switch while deployed and never ran into crinked wires but maybe you guys were just a lot harder on stuff than we were. Tape switches are also part of the SOPMOD II kit.


Its just another option....and obviously run what works for you and what you're comfortable with.