Is the Scout light becoming obsolete?

[Pax]

Rail sections can be mounted at 11 and 1 on TRX Extremes only if the mounting bracket on the inside of the handguard is used backwards. This is the only way to get the threads close enough for the screws to grab them. This is problematic for two reasons: A. Even if you LocTite the screws, I would NOT recommend this method of mounting. I tried it on mine several times and it always loosened up. I believe there just aren't enough threads for the screw to grab. I have not yet tried using a longer screw. B. Troy rail sections were apparently not designed to be used in the 11 or 1 o'clock positions and so VERY few mounts will fit in the VERY small space between the rail section and the top rail. I do not know if the Surefire OEM scout mount will fit, but I doubt it. I highly recommend a Gear Sector or LaRue mount, or a Samson Evolution rail instead of the TRX Extreme.

[SteveL]

Thanks for the advice. There is also a mount for the Scout light from Mount-N-Slot specifically for the Troy TRX/Vtac rail. I might look into that option as well.

[Eric D.]

After batting my options around for awhile I went for the M300A Mini Scout Light. Like I said before, I was drawn to the X300 for its output and runtime but I wasn't sold on the switching - I really wanted a clickie tailcap.

I got the M300A in the mail today and I'm really quite impressed. Its smaller than pictures would have you believe and it's very bright despite being rated lower than other SF lights. Just for perspective - Once it got dark I took the light into my basement (30'x75') with lights off. Standing at one end and activating the light lit up the whole room; I would have no problems spotting movement. I have some shitter UTG lights rated at 150-200 lumens and the M300A is still brighter. Not to mention that the beam is focused into a perfect, evenly distributed circle. Every flashlight I've ever used has a tight, bright spot in the middle with a larger ring of duller light around it - The SF light isn't like this, its completely even. I'm definitely satisfied with the output. I also got the clickie tailcap - very robust and tactile. Firm, positive switching and no ND's. I dealt with the lower runtime by adding a 123 battery core to my MOE pistol grip - 2 extra batteries, 2.6 more hours of runtime.

I'm very happy with it. Small, compact, ergonomic, streamlined, durable, bright. Its only natural that its sitting in a Gear Sector Mount

It was pricey, but worth it. It gonna take awhile before I stop thinking about all the ammo I could have gotten for that $300

[buddyhoohaw]

Great pics Belmont...a scout in a GS mount is unbeatable Ive found. I found a SR07 for $55 that will be here on Monday so I look forward to finally trying that way overpriced piece of kit out.

Glad to hear you're coming around to the dark....wait "light" side.

Cheers

[SteveL]

I just installed a Surefire Scout light on my AR using the IWC mount for the Troy TRX Extreme rail. Installation was rather simple. The trickiest part is getting the backing plate between the handguard and barrel in just the right place to screw everything together, but even that wasn't too bad. The mount is very simple, but effective. I'm very impressed with the quality and happy with the way the mount went on.







As the light sits right this second, it's not exactly perfect IMO for a right handed shooter, but I'll soon have an SR-06 tape switch mounted to alleviate that problem. Without the switch the light would be easier to manipulate on the other side of the forend.

It should be pointed out that with the Magpul BUS installed in the front, this is as far forward as I could put the light without dropping it down to the 3 o'clock position on the rail. This is not a problem IMO, but others may want to take it into consideration for their own various configurations.

[seb5]

I just installed a Surefire Scout light on my AR using the IWC mount for the Troy TRX Extreme rail. Installation was rather simple. The trickiest part is getting the backing plate between the handguard and barrel in just the right place to screw everything together, but even that wasn't too bad. The mount is very simple, but effective. I'm very impressed with the quality and happy with the way the mount went on.







As the light sits right this second, it's not exactly perfect IMO for a right handed shooter, but I'll soon have an SR-06 tape switch mounted to alleviate that problem. Without the switch the light would be easier to manipulate on the other side of the forend.

It should be pointed out that with the Magpul BUS installed in the front, this is as far forward as I could put the light without dropping it down to the 3 o'clock position on the rail. This is not a problem IMO, but others may want to take it into consideration for their own various configurations.

Steve, on one of my builds with a 14.5 LW and the 11" rail I used the same mount with my mini scout. I have a Troy front site but felt the lenght was not enough for me to like it. I moved the mount as far forward as possible, even hanging a bit over the edge of the rail to fit me. I prefer the clickie switch so didn't want the tape switch. Anyway, the point of all this is that I put the mount and light where I wanted it and moved the front site back a few notches. It worked great for me. To alleviate this on other builds I just went with the 13" rail.

[SteveL]

Steve, on one of my builds with a 14.5 LW and the 11" rail I used the same mount with my mini scout. I have a Troy front site but felt the lenght was not enough for me to like it. I moved the mount as far forward as possible, even hanging a bit over the edge of the rail to fit me. I prefer the clickie switch so didn't want the tape switch. Anyway, the point of all this is that I put the mount and light where I wanted it and moved the front site back a few notches. It worked great for me. To alleviate this on other builds I just went with the 13" rail.

Thanks for the info. I'm not unhappy with the light's location. I just wanted to point out that if you're using a Magpul BUS sight with this particular mount then it's something you should probably be aware of. The MBUS is a little wider than something like a KAC sight, and maybe the Troy. With one of these sights I'm guessing you could put the light and your sight as far forward as you want to with no issues. When the light is on the barrel does cast a shadow, but it's way off to the left side and I didn't even notice it the first few times I turned the light on.

[Jason Falla]

I get asked a lot about where to mount your flashlight to your rifle. I also get asked about mounting options. So I thought that I would drag out some of my SF lights with different mounting options and show you how I mount mine. I am currently running a Centurion Arms full Mil-Spec Cabine. It has a 16" cold hammer forged barrel, covered by a DD M4A1 rail.

I always say that there is never a perfect set up. You will always have to compromise on something. You will always have to give up something to get something. So if you are struggling with the perfect set, just realize that everything is normal. Always remember that if it's tactical, it's not comfortable!

Figure 1 shows my laser (LD D-BAL A2) positioned on the 12 o'clock rail and close to the front sight post so the...

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[ALCOAR]

Jason, on your mini scout light....it appears you have used a butler creek scope cap, if so, what size cover fits the m300a's head?

Great solution considering I was just checking out SF's typical high quality, super convenient, yet high as balls on a giraffe price tag solution which in this case is their aluminum flip up cover that fits the scout head's.....it's only $90 IIrc

I need it more than anything to protect the bezel and lens from muzzle blast...I spent so much time getting this WL config. the way I wanted it and my only gripe is that it heads about 1/4-1/2" too far forward where it catches some nasty blast from the BAC.

[IMG][/IMG]

[Jason Falla]

Yeah, good question! I didn't buy it, it's an issued item. The one that I have does a great job of protecting the lens from muzzle blast. If you end up getting one, make sure you throw on some electrical tape so it doesn't get blasted off by that muzzle break!

I'll check to see if it has any model numbers on it.

Nice gun BTW.