project 1911

[Robb Jensen]

I'm doing a little WECSOG/Hack-Fu gunwerks work to my 1911 Springfield again.

I can't remember who's grip safety fits the Springfield frames the best. I have a Cylinder & Slide w/memory groove but it leaves large gaps at the top of it and looks funny. I want it to fit a little tighter there. Anyone know which brand/size fits a SA best?



I'm undercutting the triggerguard and can probably go a little further but I'm chickenshit!

I've roughly blended in the Wilson Combat extractor and Ed Brown ejector and slide to frame. Last time I worked the gun over I blended the magwell.


I'll be spraying the slide, frame and all small parts in Norrells desert brown and replacing the 10-8 rear sight with a Warren when they become available next spring. I have some tan 10-8 grips on the way.

[Greg Bell]

Lookin' good! I have a project I need to get back working on too.

[Aubrey]

...
I can't remember who's grip safety fits the Springfield frames the best. I have a Cylinder & Slide w/memory groove but it leaves large gaps at the top of it and looks funny. I want it to fit a little tighter there. Anyone know which brand/size fits a SA best?...

from John Harrison's site:

There is a lot of misinformation circulating about beavertail installations on Springfield pistols. First, there are two different frames to consider: the Mil-Spec / WW II frames with original style frame tangs and "Loaded" pistols that come with a factory beavertail.
Loaded model frames are cut for Wilson pattern beavertails and are usually over cut as they come from the factory. To get a nice tight joint, I usually weld the radius and re-fit the stock beavertail or a Wilson. A Group 1 beavertail can be fit, but will require a good bit of weld build up.
Mil-Sec / WWII frames have G.I. style frame tangs that are shaped a little bit differently from the standard pattern. The tangs are a little shallow on the topside and when fit with a Group 1 beavertail often has a gap or mismatch on the top face of the frame to beavertail joint. This is not in every case, but in most. To avoid this mismatch, a small weld bead can be placed on top of each tang to add enough material to the tang to make a smooth joint. Group 2 beavertails can be fit without this extra welding. This frame is what the S&A .220" radius beavertail was designed for. S&A uses a smaller radius on this safety that moves the joint forward to where the frame tangs are thicker.

[Robb Jensen]

Thanks Aubrey my pistol is a Loaded.

[GIFFMANN]

Coming along nicely! Keep us posted on the results.

[Paulinski]

A bit of topic but why are you replacing the 10-8 sight. I just ordered one few days ago.

Thanks

Paul

[Robb Jensen]

A bit of topic but why are you replacing the 10-8 sight. I just ordered one few days ago.

Thanks

Paul

I like it a lot but like the wider notch of the Scott Warren rear sight. Scott had a pistol come in the other day for transfer (from SA) that had a Warren handmade rear sight on it with a .110" fiber front and the combo was VERY nice. I use a .100" fiber front.

[Paulinski]

Thanks for the clarification.

[Rob96]

SA uses beavertails from Smith & Alexander. Go to the Smith & Alexander website and you will see it listed with the proper radius cuts.

[Robb Jensen]

SA uses beavertails from Smith & Alexander. Go to the Smith & Alexander website and you will see it listed with the proper radius cuts.

I was looking around on Brownells, I think is the one I need.

#849-009-127 Smith & Alexander .220° Grip Safety, Palmswell stainless. They're out of blued so I'll get stainless and sandblast it before spraying it with Norrells.