Going to attempt the DCAEK install this weekend, what should I know?

[masternave]

I'm excited to be installing the DCAEK this weekend. I'm rolling the internet and watching all the videos I can find. If anyone has made some mistakes, or has some sage advice I'd appreciate it greatly. Thanks.

[Randy Lee]

Hi!

Thanks for purchasing our kit. Since we have been slacking on updating our videos, I should point out a few items.

First, we included an aluminum slave pin with the kit. I talked about making your own in the video, but we felt it would be better for the end user to provide one.

When you are about to install the trigger pivot pin through the frame, leave the sear housing out of the frame. This will take all the tension off the spring and make it much easier to push the pin through the frame and trigger return spring eye in one fell swoop. Then you can install the sear housing back into yhe frame as the next operation.

Last, be careful not to lose the black aluminum frame plug (assuming you are installing our kit into a 9/40/357 without thumb safeties) . This plug acts as a space filler against the left side of the sear block. If it falls out, the void left behind can cause the steel side insert in the frame to warp.

If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to pm me or call the shop.

-Randy

[Notman]

Be carfull not to launch the little plunger under the seer into worp speed. Took about thirty minuites to find mine on the bench. Put down a light colored towl to make parts easy to see.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk

[masternave]

Thanks Randy. I really look forward to having a brand new gun. I wondered what that little pin is... I would recommend maybe putting together a reasonably detailed walkthrough with images on your site... it would be a big help to print out and have beside you. I'll post my thoughts after I do it. (provided I don't chicken out and pay my local smith.) :P

I just noted that the thing that you remove to change out the backstrap works to remove the take down pins... I've never heard anyone mention using it for that purpose, so I thought I'd notice it.

[beastfrog]

I just noted that the thing that you remove to change out the backstrap works to remove the take down pins... I've never heard anyone mention using it for that purpose, so I thought I'd notice it.

I don't think I'd use it for that purpose. Since you have to use a hammer to drive the roll pins out use the appropriate sized punch. The plastic on the frame tool assembly probably won't take too much hammer before being destroyed.

[Randy Lee]

Thanks Randy. I really look forward to having a brand new gun. I wondered what that little pin is... I would recommend maybe putting together a reasonably detailed walkthrough with images on your site... it would be a big help to print out and have beside you. I'll post my thoughts after I do it. (provided I don't chicken out and pay my local smith.) :P

I just noted that the thing that you remove to change out the backstrap works to remove the take down pins... I've never heard anyone mention using it for that purpose, so I thought I'd notice it.

We will try to create a pdf.

As beastfrog noted, the frame tool is rather fragile. I recommend getting a 1/8" roll pin punch. I learned the hard way to always use the right tool for the job. I will someday write a book about how to friction weld a match bushing to a 1911 barrel...

-Randy

[masternave]

Quick note, will this work? I would seem from the description that the tip is the right size, while the shaft is wrong, if that makes any sense. Thanks.

http://www.amazon.com/Westward-2AJF8...3442752&sr=1-2

[Randy Lee]

It looks like it should. The pins in the frame are a bit over 1" long. It looks likr the punch will do nicely.

-Randy

[jck397]

Brownells makes some good punches specifically for roll pins for a decent price.

I found the best way (for me) to reassemble everything is to run a Glock disassembly tool through the hole, then set the pin flush against the tip f the Glock tool, and work it back the other way, using the Glock tool to wiggle the holes in the frame, trigger, trigger spring, and slide stop lever into lining up, then keeping the pin flush against the tool to guide it through--the hardest part is getting the trigger spring loop over the trigger pin. Toothpicks have also helped in lining things up, but any torquing snaps them, so the Glock tool is better. Of course, Randy lives and breathes this stuff, so I'd defer to him.

Watch the videos, make sure you have the right tools, and for God's sake, watch that @#$% sear plunger/spring (an angled set of tweezers does the trick nicely) and you'll be fine. And you're going to LOVE the new trigger pull.

Good luck!

[RancidSumo]

Make sure you have a SMALL set of tweezers. The ones I had were slightly too thick and it made it a huge pain in the ass to get the plunger back in after the spring change.