LMT .308 MWS Pictures show us your setup

**Plasman** · 04-13-16, 22:01

Originally Posted by Boba Fett v2

I'd be happy with that.

What kind of weight reduction are guys seeing running the slick LM8 uppers with ball milled 16" heavy barrels?

16" CL barrel: 3lbs, 7.2oz
16" SS barrel ball milled: 3lbs, 5.2oz

MWS railed upper chassis (stripped): 2lbs 1.7oz
LM8 slick upper chassis (stripped): 2lbs, 0.9oz

**nedceifus** · 04-14-16, 07:51

Just a bit of info. Got an email response from Gene today confirming that I have a 16" CL 5R barrel. I did not know they ever made one. Your rifle was built and inspected on 9-29-10. It has a button pulled 5R barrel and is chrome lined 1/10 twist rifling. The “MP” is for Mag Particle inspection after proof firing. The “CB” is chrome bore. Hope this helps

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**domestique** · 04-14-16, 08:11

Thanks for the info. Next time you talk to Gene, ask him about this rare MRP upper:

Barry Dueck has a close relationship with LMT (uses them in 3-gun) and in a SF promo video was using this upper. It is a slightly longer SLK8 CQB that is wider to accommodate a SF suppressor. I would love to have one of these to use with both my 18" SS 5.56 barrel, and with my 300blk barrel.

There were rumors last fall on TOS, that they were going to be released, but I saw nothing at Shot Show 2016.

**Boba Fett v2** · 04-14-16, 20:27

What up peeps. So I'm stripping my MWS lower and I hit a snag. I know the bolt catch/release is retained by a set screw rather than a roll pin, but I'm having the hardest time breaking it free without destroying the ultra thin 1/16 allen key. I put a few drops of Kroil in there thinking that it might works its way between the threads and loosen it up a bit, and I've also tried applying heat with a handheld torch. That motherf**ker won't budge. Any ideas or suggestions?

**VooDoo6Actual** · 04-15-16, 06:45

Originally Posted by Boba Fett v2

What up peeps. So I'm stripping my MWS lower and I hit a snag. I know the bolt catch/release is retained by a set screw rather than a roll pin, but I'm having the hardest time breaking it free without destroying the ultra thin 1/16 allen key. I put a few drops of Kroil in there thinking that it might works its way between the threads and loosen it up a bit, and I've also tried applying heat with a handheld torch. That motherf**ker won't budge. Any ideas or suggestions?

Break Free or other pentrating oil elixir let sit w/ heat as you did again. Use composite dead blow hammer / mallet w/ robust taps at hex set screw extraction point while summoning the "Gods of Chaos" & "WTF Murphy" to rebuke & release the bound spirit from the evil entity holding it within.

Frustrating indeed I know.

**nedceifus** · 04-15-16, 08:08

All of what VooDoo said but I might try a impact screw driver. The kind you tap with a hammer. What are you stripping for? Cerakote?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**Boba Fett v2** · 04-15-16, 15:11

Okay I'll give it another shot, but I've all but tried everything I know. And yes, I'm stripping to have it Cerekoted. Maybe they can just mask that part off, but I was going for an ultra clean appearance.