Attachment 60774
lahunter57 - what size barrel is that? The 13.5"?
Hey, what about a sticky for the MWS only!
GET IN YOUR BUBBLE!
It’s a 16” cut down to 13.5”
My apologies if this is not the proper forum/thread or whatever.
I was having a problem with my LMT MWS .308 after I installed the Geissele SSA-E trigger group in it. The issue was that I was unable to pull the trigger after I fired a round, the next round chambered, and the trigger was inoperable. I inquired and had to wait over three weeks for an answer, but I found their response extremely helpful. I wanted to share it here with anyone else moving from the SSA to the SSA-E trigger. I look forward to using it very carefully and being mindful of my trigger pull, etc. I had to rack the round out of the rifle, then reload it, chamber it and then it would fire. I researched it a bit and thought it was "a hammer following" bolt issue, but ... ... well, read the response.
Here is there response to my inquiry.
Thank you for contacting us and for your support and I apologize for the tardy reply. We are still behind with emails and working very hard to catch up.
The SSA-E is about 1lbs lighter and change in break characteristic from carrot like to candy cane like break. In a .308 pattern AR you have additional recoil and in addition to a light trigger, generally we see timing issues come up and it's a slight change in approach that makes the difference. The SSA is more forgiving than the SSA-E, which is why I don't think you've come across the issue, however the lighter the trigger with a gas gun that we want to cycle properly, the more important recoil-management and follow through become.
What you described sounds like hammer follow. Hammer follow is when the trigger is being pulled again (due to incorrect finger movement while firing) but the timing is such that the hammer rides the bolt carrier home. The hammer actually falls faster than the BCG can travel to get into battery. The hammer moving with the BCG will cause the firing pin to protrude but will not place enough force upon the primer to cause ignition. This presents itself as a light strike / dimpled primer and a non-functioning trigger. The firearm will then need to be recharged to be put back into use. Other examples of timing issues can be doubling and tripling.
We also want to avoid feathering the trigger. Feathering the trigger is putting just enough pull into the trigger to discharge the weapon. By feathering the trigger, the shooter’s trigger finger is not holding back against the stop during the firing cycle. The trigger is floating so that the bolt carrier slamming home is tossing the rifle forward and causing the trigger to be pulled again. Follow through is very important.
I hope this helps and if you have any additional questions, please let me know. Also if you have access to the setup please share a few photos looking down into the receiver with the hammer cocked, uncocked, along with photo of the side of the receiver of the pins and safety.
Thank you,
Jay
Last edited by Schootz; 02-21-20 at 16:11.
For you guys cutting down your 16 to 13.5, have you checked velocity loss? I wouldn't mind doing a 13.5 build and rocking an ACOG.
PB
"Air Force / Policeman / Fireman / Man of God / Friend of mine / R.I.P. Steve Lamy"
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