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Thread: A little cleaning advice needed

  1. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Littlelebowski View Post
    Try blasting it with BC before you write off the technique. Do it outdoors and let it dry before relubing (takes a minute or two).

    It's a lot faster and mo' betta.
    Yeah I already do that, and when the carbon doesn't come off out come the picks. Then after I loosen the chunk of carbon in question I hit it again with brake cleaner and call it a day. Honestly I think we're on the same page here.

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by wahoo95 View Post
    With a bit of looking around I can often times find brake cleaner for $1.50-1.99 per can at Walmart and the local auto parts stores.
    true but is this the non-chlorinated stuff?

    personally I use carb cleaner as it is formulated to not hurt rubber and plastics.

    for small parts I have a gallon can of Gunk parts cleaner and I just soak them in that. the can comes with a little basket that you lower the parts into. it can be used over and over as the particulates settle to the bottom. works really well...
    never push a wrench...

  3. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Biased_Observer View Post
    If Im out of BC I use simple green with water. Works great as long as you have a compressor.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
    simple green is great as a degreaser and it's non-toxic. it's cheap enough (relatively) that you can just flood it into and over parts that have grit adhering to lube.

    but make sure you rinse it off completely with plain water as it can be somewhat destructive to anodized surfaces. then use compressed air to remove the water and relube copiously as it removes every last bit down to the pores in the metal.

    but for what it takes in time to use the stuff, I just prefer to use some type of automotive parts or carb cleaner. and then relube copiously as these completely remove lube as well...
    never push a wrench...

  4. #74
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    Simple Green + Aluminum = BAD. I'd be careful with that. Depending on your dilution ratio and what flavor of simple green, you may be OK.

    Have not done an AR yet, but on my CC pistol that does get a lot of dust, grit, lint...

    Field strip.
    Remove grips from frame.
    Compressed air to blow off the loose stuff.
    CRC Brake Clean and rinse out the frame/hammer/trigger
    Compressed air to dry it out.
    Spray a shot of Gunzilla at the hammer, trigger, and frame.
    Compressed air to blow out the excess from the hidden areas.
    Wipe down with clean rag.

    Slide - same thing

    Meanwhile, presuming I have shot it since the last time, the barrel has some Copperzilla soaking in it.
    Brush x2, swab x3,
    Rinse with brake clean
    Blow it out
    Swab once with a patch and one shot of Gunzilla, then run a dry patch through.

    Assemble
    Final wipe down with clean rag. Check operation, load then holster.
    Sticks

    Grasseater // Grass~eat~er noun, often attributive \ˈgras-ē-tər\
    A person who is incapable of independent thought; a person who is herd animal-like in behavior; one who cannot distinguish between right and wrong; a foolish person.
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  5. #75
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    I use brake cleaner quite a bit because I'm admitedly lazy. Works great!

  6. #76
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    I say lube it more.

    Like fill the BCG with oil until it sprays out on the first few shots and gets your shirt dirty when you carry it. If oil ain't running out of the pin holes on the reciever and the whole upper is not completely gooped up with oil, then it's too dry.

    I already know I'm about to hear how oil 'attracts' dirt. WTF ever, if your AR quits running when the wind picks up, you're doing it wrong...

  7. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by samuse View Post
    I say lube it more.

    Like fill the BCG with oil until it sprays out on the first few shots and gets your shirt dirty when you carry it. If oil ain't running out of the pin holes on the reciever and the whole upper is not completely gooped up with oil, then it's too dry.

    I already know I'm about to hear how oil 'attracts' dirt. WTF ever, if your AR quits running when the wind picks up, you're doing it wrong...
    Properly lubed with a good good lubricant doesn't require things to be dripping with oil.

  8. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by ra2bach View Post
    true but is this the non-chlorinated stuff?

    personally I use carb cleaner as it is formulated to not hurt rubber and plastics.

    for small parts I have a gallon can of Gunk parts cleaner and I just soak them in that. the can comes with a little basket that you lower the parts into. it can be used over and over as the particulates settle to the bottom. works really well...
    ^this! Carb cleaner is just as effective for cleaning, but doesn't dry out rubber, or plastics, and doesn't strip all oils out of the pores, so it should be safer for the anodized finish too.

  9. #79
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    When I do my detailed cleaning I start by hosing everything down with hot soapy water, this usually is enough to flush out dirt, sand or grit. Just make sure you dry the whole thing well. Lucky me I have a place I can put my rifle that is about 90* and dry.
    Terra, obumbravit, Terra malum, Illi qui seminat semina itineris, Quare reum esse?

  10. #80
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    Come on.
    Dug up a thread from 7 months ago that has been decisicely covered and answered countless times, to talk about . . . a pistol?
    In an AR GD thread?

    Done, da done done, done.
    Jack Leuba
    Director, Military and Government Sales
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

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