Page 5 of 8 FirstFirst ... 34567 ... LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 80

Thread: A little cleaning advice needed

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    541
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Littlelebowski View Post
    You do know that the chrome lining was chosen for durability, right? Those chemicals you listed will not in anyway harm your barrel.

    Your weapon is nowhere near as fragile as you think it is.
    I think that most people associate chrome lining with the chrome in their cars. Thats were all these myths about damaging chrome lining in your bore come about. If a metal projectile speeding down the bore with expanding gases behind it that are hotter than the gates of hell wont damage it, there are not many things that will.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    40
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Littlelebowski View Post
    You do know that the chrome lining was chosen for durability, right? Those chemicals you listed will not in anyway harm your barrel.

    Your weapon is nowhere near as fragile as you think it is.
    I don't think its fragile. But I have had some experience with chroming auto bumpers and even some plastic automotive parts. I have seen some chrome that loses its luster after it gets old or is exposed to acetone or gasoline. I am told that is because the surface of the chrome becomes microscopically less smooth. I don't know what the effect of harsh industrial solvents has on the aging process of chrome. My thought is to avoid it if possible.

    So I am certainly no expert. But if a filthy chrome barrel cleans up with a patch and some CLP, why introduce the solvents? Chrome, by its design, has a much rougher surface than stainless or Chro moly steel. I want to keep my barrel surface as smooth as possible for as long as possible. Even my Noveske heavy chromed barrels don't get industrial solvents applied.

    I am suggesting don't use more chemical than is needed. Run your gun hard. In training. In work. In combat. But my feeling is when its cleaning time, don't artificially introduce unneeded harsh chemicals to surfaces that are important to the flight of the bullet.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    753
    Feedback Score
    10 (100%)
    In reference to the OP I have my own story of sandy nastiness to share.

    In 2008 when I was in Kuwait waiting to be sent up north my platoon and I were at the range zeroing our M4s in the middle of a sandstorm. Per Army idiocy we left our rifles on the sandbags, with the bolt to the rear, and the lube free to collect as much dust and sandy goodness as possible. After the first iteration of firing I checked my target and then went back to my rifle and made my adjustments. When I was ready to fire again I closed the bolt and my rifle made the most God-awful grinding noise I think I've heard in my life.

    I called over the range master and told him about it, and he said shoot it anyway. First round was a FTE and I had to mortar the rifle to get it out. Second and third, same thing. In the end I actually ended up gouging the inside the receiver so bad that it needed to be replaced.

    My unit chalked it up as a combat loss and I walked away with a whole new upper receiver and the knowledge that no matter what the cadre says, to never leave the bolt locked to the rear in the middle of a sandstorm.

    I'm a bit OCD about my cleaning habits too, but I don't go overboard with it. If I'm doing a class or just running through some ammo on my own I'll shoot until I'm dry on ammo and then when I get back to the house I'll clean the hell out it.

    If the rifle's really dirty (outside and inside) I'll start by hosing it down (yes, I said it) with the garden hose to get off all the grime and dirt on the outside. Immediately after I'll hit it with compressed air to dry it off. After that I spray out the inside with brake cleaner and run a snake down the bore. And then (here's where the OCD comes in) I'll pull out the dental picks and get at the chamber, guts of the BCG, the inside of the upper, etc. I leave the muzzle alone because that's not directly affecting the function of the rifle and thus does not need to be scrubbed. But everything else from the FCG to the BCG to the upper gets a wipe down and a scrub.

    Coat everything that rubs with a thin coat of 3/1 motor oil/CLP mix and I'm done.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    55
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Leonidas24 View Post
    And then (here's where the OCD comes in) I'll pull out the dental picks and get at the chamber, guts of the BCG, the inside of the upper, etc. I leave the muzzle alone because that's not directly affecting the function of the rifle and thus does not need to be scrubbed. But everything else from the FCG to the BCG to the upper gets a wipe down and a scrub.
    Are these metal dental picks? What type of picks are you using?

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    7,469
    Feedback Score
    12 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by alpha.kilo View Post
    So I am certainly no expert. But if a filthy chrome barrel cleans up with a patch and some CLP, why introduce the solvents?
    Because they're not solvents per se. I define solvents as something like Sweets or Montana Copper Killer. I think CLP has more solvents that affect the barrel than diesel or brake cleaner.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    7,469
    Feedback Score
    12 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by ComeAndTakeIt View Post
    Are these metal dental picks? What type of picks are you using?
    I hope not....

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    8,420
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by alpha.kilo View Post
    I don't think its fragile. But I have had some experience with chroming auto bumpers and even some plastic automotive parts. I have seen some chrome that loses its luster after it gets old or is exposed to acetone or gasoline. I am told that is because the surface of the chrome becomes microscopically less smooth. I don't know what the effect of harsh industrial solvents has on the aging process of chrome. My thought is to avoid it if possible.

    So I am certainly no expert. But if a filthy chrome barrel cleans up with a patch and some CLP, why introduce the solvents? Chrome, by its design, has a much rougher surface than stainless or Chro moly steel. I want to keep my barrel surface as smooth as possible for as long as possible. Even my Noveske heavy chromed barrels don't get industrial solvents applied.

    I am suggesting don't use more chemical than is needed. Run your gun hard. In training. In work. In combat. But my feeling is when its cleaning time, don't artificially introduce unneeded harsh chemicals to surfaces that are important to the flight of the bullet.
    The chrome used to line a bore is a hard chrome and different than the decorative chrome used on automotive parts. Decorative chrome does not stand up to any kind of use
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  8. #48
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    7
    Feedback Score
    0
    A few rags, a brush, patches & rods and a Bottle of CLP is all you need to clean sand, dirt or carbon out of your rifle.
    A few passes of an oily rag will get 98% of the grit.
    Brake cleaner and other solvents may do it quicker but they can damage the plastic furniture on your weapon and harm the finish on the alum/ steel parts. And if your extractor has rubber o rings installed BC can dry them out.

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    7,469
    Feedback Score
    12 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Deadeye0331 View Post
    A few rags, a brush, patches & rods and a Bottle of CLP is all you need to clean sand, dirt or carbon out of your rifle.
    A few passes of an oily rag will get 98% of the grit.
    Brake cleaner and other solvents may do it quicker but they can damage the plastic furniture on your weapon and harm the finish on the alum/ steel parts. And if your extractor has rubber o rings installed BC can dry them out.
    Oh, BULLSHIT. I've got about 15k rounds through one rifle that says you are dead wrong. I've been using brake cleaner for years. ****, there's pictures of said rifle in the Defoor carbine class thread. Folks on this forum saw me shoot with it.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    7
    Feedback Score
    0
    Hey guy clean your weapon how you want, but brake cleaner can damage the finsh and rubber/plastic parts. I'm looking at the directions on non chlorinated crc brand brakleen right now and it says,
    "protect ALL rubber parts and painted surfaces from overspray"
    Now its possible the manufactures of brakleen are "bullshiting" too but, id imagine they have a good reason for giving the warning.
    I'm not saying BC is going to render someones rifle inoperable but there is no reason to go nuts with it, especially if your are just talking about some sand/ build up.


    Quote Originally Posted by Littlelebowski View Post
    Oh, BULLSHIT. I've got about 15k rounds through one rifle that says you are dead wrong. I've been using brake cleaner for years. ****, there's pictures of said rifle in the Defoor carbine class thread. Folks on this forum saw me shoot with it.

Page 5 of 8 FirstFirst ... 34567 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •