I was just thinking about I think if I do paint it ill get it professionaly done. I don't want to mess up and have to sandg it all off. Thank you for all the help and the jokes lol
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I was just thinking about I think if I do paint it ill get it professionaly done. I don't want to mess up and have to sandg it all off. Thank you for all the help and the jokes lol
I agree with munch. I've refinished a couple 1911's with Duracoat and unless they don't get shot much, I would go with a surface treatment instead of something in a can. I refinished my SA and did all the proper surface prep and kept the painting area cleaner than a operating room. I baked it afterwards and did not shoot it for over a month to allow proper curing. In the end, if started wear-off after a couple USPSA matches to my dismay. I ended up sending it off to Coal Creek Armory for Melonite last summer and am very pleased with the results. In the end, I think it cost around $100 for a complete 1911 (frame, slide, controls, bushing...) and feel it was the best investment so far...
I see that I am once again in the minority. I like the painted finishes. Melonite and others are great, but they cost more, and have to be done by some one else. I like what I can do at home.
If I was crawling over rocks halfway around the world, I might would go for some thing else, but here in Kentucky,a paint over park finish suits me just fine. (I call it PoP).
I have no experience with Alumi-hyde, however. I prefer a baked finish. Gun-Kote is available from Brownell's in rattle cans, if you don't want to bother with an air brush. I use a cheap toaster oven to bake, so no worries about contaminating an oven used for food.
That's a good idea I had ruled that out wen I did my ar but that might work with the 1911. Is their any parts I should avoid painting?
I paint all the metal parts, except for the springs, pins, and barrel. The paint is not going to survive long on the barrel anyway
Some people tape off the rails. I would consider that if I had a really tight pistol, but so far the ones I have painted weren't that tight, and I didn't have any problems.
I strip the frame down all the way, except for the grip screw bushings, plunger tube, and ejector.
Paint might build up in pin holes, but can easily be reamed out without compromising appearance.
The toaster oven is useful for heating the parts prior to painting. They don't have to be hot, but warm is good.
I got a colt series 80 I'm no expert but it doesn't seem to have tight tolerances
whenever you get it done post a pic or two
"Courage is being scared to death ,but saddling up anyways" John wayne
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I'm no expert but most reputable smiths insist on parkerizing before "painting" to do it right. My thoughts are if you can't park at home and need to send it out for that anyways (plus buying whatever alumaderagunhydecoat and prep materials for home) you may as well just send it out for a quality, durable finish that will last for many years.
There is good information on parking and painting here:
http://www.1911pro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=361
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Pick any two.
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