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A buddy of mine just had his Timney take a dump in a recent rifle course.
They are very good company, their early ones had troubles. Have your friend give them a call. They should make it right.
Bill
Here I was putting some serious thought into a JP Trigger and you guys say don't do a single stage.![]()
http://www.jprifles.com/1.4.8.1.php
It's also affordable at $130-140.JP Tactical Spring kit: Yields 4LB release with JP trigger components and no ignition reliability compromise. Recommended for Military or Police duty rifles or your home defense rifle. Also required for any AR10 installation
I dry fired a JP in a DPMS at the gun shop and and it put a huge smile on my face. The factory trigger on my CMMG lower is nasty and doesn't go well with a 4-12x scope.
On the other hand, the lower does double duty with a BM Superlight upper so I don't want to compromise reliability or HD utility, etc.
I've been holding off on this, but still trying to understand why anyone would want a 2 stage trigger in a CQB weapon. For what purpose?
2 stage triggers are for varmints, and paper punching IMO, regardless of what the Military is using. They're also using Bushmaster products, and went to the inferior 9mm. OK, if you really think you're going to need a head shot at 200 yds with your carbine....Peace!
I'm not sure I think a 4#, single stage is light. It's manageable. 2#'s is light. Obviously those who are buying, selling and trying the Timney at 4#'s agree.
Every serious instructor of the 1911 agrees that 3.5 to 4#'s is about right on a 1911 defensive piece, and I have been trained in that arena. If it's OK for a "Poodle Shooter" that is way more apt to go off prematurely than a shouldered weapon, I think this logic could apply to an AR as well. Why wouldn't it?
It's all about "Trigger Control" in my opinion. A "properly cut" trigger group will break crisply, no matter what the weapon platform (Bolt, Semi Auto, Double or Single Action Revolver, Pump, etc.) , and can be reliable. I believe this after 100,000 rounds of .45ACP with never a hammer following or a unexpected "Doubling" (Granted this was on 5 different custom Gov't Models/ triggers done by a "Professional Gunsmith".) If you have quality metal...it will hold up to abuse. If you believe that a heavier trigger is needed so you don't jump it when you don't mean to, that's a training issue.
You can increase spring tension if you want it "heavier" if that's makes you more comfortable. If not, why all the discussion on the light weight AR Trigger Group Springs, and cutting legs back on stock trigger springs?. It's about whether or not the Hammer will "jump" off, or not hold the trigger on recoil, or if the bearing surface will wear prematurely because it was cut "improperly" with bad/ soft parts.
If I am wrong, please tell me why. And because I only have 8,000 rounds of trigger time on 2 AR lowers isn't reason enough in my mind.
Please don't get me wrong. I'm very willing to listen and learn as long as the information is sound, but I'd love to get feedback on the points I brought up...not just to be told I'm wrong without an explanation.
Thanks!
Tack
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