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I prefer 1/3rd lower co-witness. For long range shots, not having the FSB touching the bottom of the red dot allows for a better sight picture as well as offering holdover viewing of the target.
I prefer lower 1/3. I went with an AMD standard, non-cantilever mount and love it. If you qualify for LEO/.mil discounts you can get a killer deal for them at dsgarms.
If you are using an aimpoint or eotech the main advantage is that it doesn't matter where in the window the dot is - only if. You leave the rear sight up should the dot be locked to the top of the post - I prefer absolute with fold down front & rear this gives you the instant ability to do a rough zero check without firing a shot if you think one or the other has been knocked off of zero. Also if you have a red dot sight with a front cover you can shoot with both eyes open while leaving the front cover closed on the sight & still hit perfectly so the front sight in the way will be irrelevant.
If you have an astigmatism & your dot looks blurry use it with the rear sight absolute & it will remove the blur
That's not really true.
1. Inside of 50 yards, it DOES make a difference where the dot is in the tube. You do get "some" parallax. Outside of 50 yards, you are "parallax free". (You can try this for yourself at home. Put the sight in a vice, put the dot on something in your living room and change your head position. It won't stay on the same point at close range.)
2. You don't have to have absolute to check zero. All you need to do is aim at your target with your (something more than 50 yards away) with your sights and your dot should be right on top of your front sight, assuming you use a 6:00 hold.
3. You should ALWAYS shoot with both eyes open with a RDS. Otherwise you are going to be sighting down a very narrow tube and occluding your other eyes view of the target and greatly restricting your situational awareness..
4. It won't hit in exactly the same point with the cover up. It can't. Your non-domninant eye is over some difference laterally (unless you are very deformed) and it will be offset towards the eye that isn't looking through the occluded sight.
5. You're right about the astigmatism though.![]()
Can, by the way, someone tell me what are actual heights (from rail to base of RDS or from rail to centre of tube) of LT-660HK and LT-751 mounts?
Montrala
I'm sponsored competition shooter representing Heckler&Koch, Kahles, Hornady and Typhoon Defence brands in Poland, so I can be biased
http://montrala.blogspot.com
I use both absolute and 1/3. I find the statements of opinion as fact in this thread downright comical.
To the OP...
That MI mount looks INSANELY expensive for what it is. MI, to my mind, typically offers cost savings as one of the reasons to opt for them but there is no way I would pay MORE for a thumscrew mount than a throwlever mount from one of the other manufacturers.
I've always intended to catalog the various mounts into a chart but just have never gotten around to it. Obviously the mount height information is something I would want to include, and like you I find it odd that so many manufacturers don't include it. I'd like to see them state the actual centerline height above rail rather than simply saying "absolute" or "lower 1/3".
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