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Thread: Upgrading the Cleaning Kit, Suggestions?

  1. #1
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    Upgrading the Cleaning Kit, Suggestions?

    I'm starting to run pretty low on my Hoppes lube and solvents, and wanting to upgrade my gun cleaning kit all around. What are your opinions on these changes, and what are some other things I may want to add?

    - Tackle Box to replace old laptop bag
    - SLiP2000 725 or Carbon Killer? Which one is better for general cleaning and breaking down the different grimes/carbon deposits that build up in a firearm? This will replace the Hoppes solvent.
    - SLiP2000 Gun Lubricant to replace the Hoppes lube.
    - New barrel cleaning rod: suggestions? Mine is cheap and bends with even just a little pressure, causing it to scrape against the inside of the barrel/chamber opening and such. I'd prefer one that can be broken down to fit in a smaller space.
    - Dental Pick to get to the retaining pin on the BCG, scrape carbon away, etc.
    - Chamber Brush, as I don't have one right now.

    Any other suggestions on things I should pick up? I have good cotton patches, and will get copper bore brushes with all this as well, and may pick up a small tube of SLiP weapon grease as well for the little spots that are prone to wear, like where the chargine handle latches. Thanks!
    Last edited by aaron_c; 07-24-11 at 15:21.

  2. #2
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    How many different guns will this kit service?

    The Otis kits work well and have all the mechanical you are describing in the pack (lube too, but easily substituted with your own choice) though it is a pull through cable design rather than rod.
    Available in individual calibers, and there's also a couple versions that service several calibers out of one pack (9mm, 5.56, 7.62 for example)

    Standard kit has 2 different picks, patch eye, bore brush, chamber brush, little toothbrush, adapter for mating up to original military cleaning kit parts, patches, T handle, short cable or rods to use as handle for picks and toothbrush, long cable for pulling stuff through the bore and working the chamber brush, bottle of oil, bottle of lense cleaner, some lense cleaning papers.

    The liquids are held in CLP sized bottles in a strap that has 3 loops inside the case. Easy to replace the standard chemicals with those of your choice if you've got a couple spare bottle laying around.

    In regard to your rod bending, there's nothing stopping pulling it through rather than pushing other than you'd have to fiddle the end after each stroke to feed it through again unless you had a couple extra straight sections that could be used in lieu of a handle section.

    I'm not associated with Otis or anything like that, but having been given one to fiddle with for a while (M4/M16 version) I find it compliments the standard old military in~the~stock cleaning kit very well. (I like to have rods available too, 'cause I ain't gonna try using the cable to remove an obstruction. Too much like pushing a rope IMO)

    All that + ruptured cartridge extractors in suitable calibers should get you a good long ways in most instances.

    Not gonna get into lubes/cleaners/whatever as that's way to personal a choice for most folks and there's already a great honkin' pile of threads about it already.

  3. #3
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    For a lube I like Weapons Shield. For me its the perfect consistency.

  4. #4
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    Thanks, guys. Yeah, it looks like my cleaning rod has sort of a swivel-bearing type deal on the handle so I don't think I can take the handle part off, making it impossible to pull through. That said, I can play with it later and see what I can come up with.

    I will be servicing 9mm and 5.56/.223 99% of the time. I have some other guns (about 6) but the vast, vast majority of my shooting is with these two. I'll go have a look at that Otis kit!

  5. #5
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    For the range bag I prefer a good ol' USGI cleaning kit. When I am at the house I use a Dewey rod.

    For lubricant I have used WeaponShield for the last couple of years (over in Iraq as well) and it's always a good choice. Lately I have been using FrogLube and it is fast becoming the shiznitty.

    Not a big fan of Otis kits, but everyone has their opinions. If you go to Brownells you can get USGI kits, plus chamber brushes, green AP brushes, patches, etc... for decent prices. Go the hardware store and grab a couple of paint brushes as they work good for all around work.

    Stay away from grease. It won't do anything for you and the charging handle will still wear. It's a friction point and there isn't much that you can do. I would however get a good charging handle like the BCM Gunfighter.



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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiny86 View Post
    For a lube I like Weapons Shield. For me its the perfect consistency.
    Me too.

    But looking for copper cleaner with it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaron_c View Post

    - Tackle Box to replace old laptop bag
    Why am I ALWAYS retarded when it comes to this. For some reason I never thought to just stock up a tackle box with all my cleaning gear. I have about 3 plastic Cabela's bags(the green bags you carry everything out of the store in) full of various shit I have to look through every time I clean stuff(which isnt that often). Tackle boxes are cheap and you can get so many different varieties there has to be something that will work well.

    mumble, mumble, mumble off to Cabela's for a tackle box mumble, mumble, mumbel.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjacobs View Post
    mumble, mumble, mumble off to Cabela's for a tackle box mumble, mumble, mumbel.
    And just think, after that trip you'll have 4 green bags to put stuff in

  9. #9
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    Does the Weapon Shield also work as a solvent/degreaser, or just to lubricate? I'm reading up on SLiP 725 and similar products, and people seem to say not to use it much because it strips every bit of lubrication off the part (although it seems like you'd just re-lube it afterwards).

  10. #10
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    Cheap but very effective.........to clean I spray all oil, grease, and grime off with non chlorinated brake cleaner then follow with a spray of Remoil which soaks in to protect the metal. I lube with either synthetic motor oil which is cheap and effective, while also making clean up easy by preventing carbon from sticking to any surfaces. My bore gets a shot of Gunzilla followed up by a couple passes with a bore snake and I am done. This routine is cheap, effective, and quick.
    Last edited by wahoo95; 07-24-11 at 17:37.

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