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Thread: Upgrading the Cleaning Kit, Suggestions?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaron_c View Post
    Does the Weapon Shield also work as a solvent/degreaser, or just to lubricate? I'm reading up on SLiP 725 and similar products, and people seem to say not to use it much because it strips every bit of lubrication off the part (although it seems like you'd just re-lube it afterwards).
    WS does not work as good as a first time cleaner as I would like - it's a lube.

    but George claims that if you clean all the way down the first time and then keep it wet, it will keep dirt and carbon in suspension that can be wiped off or with a new application and then relubed. this has worked for me...
    Last edited by ra2bach; 07-25-11 at 10:55.
    never push a wrench...

  2. #22
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    This. I own the g and g tool and the botach tactical tool, this one beats them both (it is $40 every place). A lot of people say the carbon on the bolt tail is a non-issue and to leave it alone. I prefer to clean the bolt tail because it can corrode underneath the carbon if ignored long enough. If you aren't concerned about bolt tail carbon enough to buy a dedicated tool, a scotch brite pad and solvent will remove a lot of it.

    I do really like tetra grease. It works up to 750 degrees F and you can rub it in til it disappears, and embeds in the metal. Good for the bolt, bolt tail, bolt lugs, the 4 sliding rails on the bolt carrier group, the cam pin, and hammer where the BCG slides over it.

    AR15 chamber brush if you don't already have one. Mine fits so tight i just coat it with CLP and jam it in, pull it straight out, turn the brush and repeat 3 or 4 times.

    Automotive moly grease (the cheap stuff is perfectly fine). Rather then waste the expensive Tetra grease here I use it on the buffer spring and in the buffer tube. It REALLY helps if that "BOINGG" sound during firing annoys you and you want to make it go away! I will also use it if i am out of tetra grease. I work in automotive and know enough about it to believe if it can stand up to truck wheel bearings at 70 mph on a 110 degree day, it'll work in my AR.

    Hand guard removal tool. I made mine by bending a 3 foot long piece of threaded rod into an arrowhead shape, in a vice and covering it with automotive rubber hose to protect the handguard ring. To use it i sit in a chair, brace the v-end under my leg, place it over the ring and apply pressure. Then i use a screwdriver to gingerly pop off the handguards. It works, sort of, but i think i'd been better off spending the 20 bucks to get a real one from brownells.

    I made it because i want to clean under the handguards occasionally -although i guess you could just flush it out with brake cleaner and call it good. But if dirt, bugs, dead snails or mice are building up under the handguards i want to clean that out too, why do a half-azzed cleaning?
    Last edited by Markasaurus; 07-26-11 at 00:27.

  3. #23
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    If you haven't already bought the tackle box, check out the MTM "Tactical Range Box". It's got a break down cradle for long guns and includes a mag well stand for ARs. It seems to have plenty of compartments. I just got one a couple of weeks ago and I think it's going to work out well.

  4. #24
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    A few thoughts. I have never seen the tail of a bolt "corrode" from non-cleaning. In fact what you probably saw was nothing more than carbon build up. If you keep your entire bolt wet most of the carbon can simply be wiped off.

    Handguard removal tool is a waste of money.

    Why use grease when there are good lubes available? I would possibly understand the grease in limited situations, but I don't think it works on the AR as well as a fluid lubricant.


    Quote Originally Posted by Markasaurus View Post


    This. I own the g and g tool and the botach tactical tool, this one beats them both (it is $40 every place). A lot of people say the carbon on the bolt tail is a non-issue and to leave it alone. I prefer to clean the bolt tail because it can corrode underneath the carbon if ignored long enough. If you aren't concerned about bolt tail carbon enough to buy a dedicated tool, a scotch brite pad and solvent will remove a lot of it.

    I do really like tetra grease. It works up to 750 degrees F and you can rub it in til it disappears, and embeds in the metal. Good for the bolt, bolt tail, bolt lugs, the 4 sliding rails on the bolt carrier group, the cam pin, and hammer where the BCG slides over it.

    AR15 chamber brush if you don't already have one. Mine fits so tight i just coat it with CLP and jam it in, pull it straight out, turn the brush and repeat 3 or 4 times.

    Automotive moly grease (the cheap stuff is perfectly fine). Rather then waste the expensive Tetra grease here I use it on the buffer spring and in the buffer tube. It REALLY helps if that "BOINGG" sound during firing annoys you and you want to make it go away! I will also use it if i am out of tetra grease. I work in automotive and know enough about it to believe if it can stand up to truck wheel bearings at 70 mph on a 110 degree day, it'll work in my AR.

    Hand guard removal tool. I made mine by bending a 3 foot long piece of threaded rod into an arrowhead shape, in a vice and covering it with automotive rubber hose to protect the handguard ring. To use it i sit in a chair, brace the v-end under my leg, place it over the ring and apply pressure. Then i use a screwdriver to gingerly pop off the handguards. It works, sort of, but i think i'd been better off spending the 20 bucks to get a real one from brownells.

    I made it because i want to clean under the handguards occasionally -although i guess you could just flush it out with brake cleaner and call it good. But if dirt, bugs, dead snails or mice are building up under the handguards i want to clean that out too, why do a half-azzed cleaning?



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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaron_c View Post
    - SLiP2000 725 or Carbon Killer? Which one is better for general cleaning and breaking down the different grimes/carbon deposits that build up in a firearm? This will replace the Hoppes solvent.
    Slip2000 725 is a water based cleaner that can cause rust. Just make sure you wipe everything dry if you use it. It's great as a general cleaner, but you'll need a solvent for caked-on carbon. I use 725 and Hoppes #9.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobM View Post
    If you haven't already bought the tackle box, check out the MTM "Tactical Range Box". It's got a break down cradle for long guns and includes a mag well stand for ARs. It seems to have plenty of compartments. I just got one a couple of weeks ago and I think it's going to work out well.
    I looked that up, that thing looks pretty awesome. I was just thinking earlier today it would be nice to have a stand to clean my AR on.

  7. #27
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    Another thumbs up on the Froglube.

  8. #28
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    I personally love the SIG/Swiss Arms cleaning kit issued with the 55x series. Very high quality sectional cleaning rod, brushes, and cleaning patch jag. It rolls up into a nice compact vinyl pouch that easily stows in my range bag. I use LaRue machinegunners lube and occasionally the SIG heavy grease for lubricant.
    Last edited by JoshNC; 07-27-11 at 01:08.

  9. #29
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    I use the Plano organizers from Walmart, they are platform specific and reduces the digging through a mass kit. I do have the MtM range box but cleaned it out and put it in storage. What's not shown is the cleaning rods, cradle and a 4oz. bottle of Butches Bore Shine. I get the big bottle and use the Sinclair bottles to have the flip spout. I did get the wide/short version but will get the regular 4 oz. so they will fit into the Plano's. In the pistol box, you will see a white w/red cap bottle--perfect use for the 5hour drink bottles--no leaks with the BBS!
    I didn't show the bolt gun one. Although I have the cleaning stars in there, I tried them and will use them up and won't buy anymore. I prefer the Sinclair lug recess tool which is leaps and bounds better-and cheaper in the long run.

    Anyhow, my way of doing things.

    AR
    Pistol
    .22




    GET IN YOUR BUBBLE!

  10. #30
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    .......
    Last edited by ALCOAR; 09-25-11 at 02:34.

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