Froglube

[SilverBullet432]

frog lube huh? i use the paste. i use it to clean the surface of my guns, smells sweet and keeps em' shiny! i however, do not use it as a lubricant, (again i have the paste) i tried it out on my .22. fte after fte.... sprayed break-free onto the action, not a single problem for the remainder of the 500 rounds i shot that day. i am sure that other frog products might work. i bought it really because the bubba at the gun shop swore by it. well, if it didnt work in my .22, im damn sure it wont work on my AR, but again, it does do a nice job of cleaning the metal though!!

[tremor64]

In lab testing, froglube has a low coefficient of friction (half of breakfree clp), produces a 56mm scar in the falex four ball. That is pretty decent lube, and better than mil spec.

In personal testing, froglube protects unfinished steel very well. Even from heavy concentration of saltwater. Operationally, a friend of mine used the clp froglube during combat salt water swims without issue.

In my own experiencence, and that of numerous others, it absolutely slaughters carbon fouling, and I have found it to very slowly work its way under brass smears on the brass deflector, fwiw.

It fills the C, L, and P pretty well.

what he said - had a chance to see some very serious guys train - most were using FL

[Iraqgunz]

I guess you missed the part where myself and others ran it through a Magpul Dynamics I/II Carbine course. I think we averaged about 1500 rounds per course. So yes, there have been plenty of people that have used it in high count courses.

Thanks for the info. I'm not trying to be difficult, just objective.

Have you used the lube and run a gun hard, as in over 1K rounds in a day or weekend?

I ask because I rarely clean my person guns. A. There is no need to clean guns unless they are close to malfunction and B. I clean enough of them at work that it's the last thing I want to do with my time at home.

There is no such thing as a CLP, a REAL CLP that is. There are good Solvents that can be used for cleaning and there are good Lubes that can be used to , obviously, lube. Rust preventitive has more to do with enviroment and ensuring that the metal is coating with something that doen't allow moisture or a corrosive to touch the bare metal. My Lab Geeks at work also tell me that having an anode or metal that attracts rust or some shit like that close by, it will act as sacrificial lamb by attracting corrosives.

[Caduceus]

Just curious, and it makes no difference what you decide to use or if t=you like FL or not, but did you follow all the directions. Th ereason I ask is because it seems that the posts I read where people experience problems with FL can be traced back to not prepping the weapon correctly.

Did you detail strip your weapon and take it down to bare metal... or bare finish ( blue, black, whatever ) with alcohol? Then did you "cook prep" the metals before application?

I haven't read many posts of gummy or sticky weapons after FL, but the ones I have read were always associated with improper initial prep of the weapon.

Again, I would just like to know for my personal benefit. In fact as much as I like FL, I got a free bottle of FireClean and intend to try that on an old Colt Cobra that is so gummed up the cylinder barely turns and no oil or lube I have used ( haven't FLd it ) works for long.

Sorry for the late reply; I lost track of this thread.

The LMT was sold to me by another board member as a lightly used 'complete' upper; I added a new LMT BCG and standard CH. Headspace passed with a go and no-go gauge.

I shot several hundred rounds with regular CLP before switching over. Yes, I followed the directions about stripping lube, putting in the oven, etc, and "curing" the parts before use. If you're a search-guru, you'll see some posts that I had about proper use; I followed the advice in those.

This was propably over a year ago, so going off memory (I have a log book at home if you want more exact numbers)... but I shot the rifle at least once where it functioned fine, before the episode where it was locking up. After each range trip I wipe things down and reapply lube (don't get too crazy, white-glove type of cleaning). The rifle would fire a round and not cycle the next round. Shooting from a bench, using either a Pmag or USGI (probably Brownell's, at that time), with factory 5.56 ammo (probably Federal or PMC x-tac). Fire, not chamber a round. Clear it, fire, not chamber a round. Happened a couple times before I got pissed, field stripped the rifle, wiped off the FL and put CLP on. Worked fine the rest of the day.

At that time, I had 2 AR's. One was my "control" group using regular CLP. The LMT/LRB was my trial one. I ditched FL since I didn't trust the rifle to fire consistently using it. I don't mind so much if my rifle has issues after a few hundred rounds in a range session, but the initial rounds? If I'm ever using that rifle in anger, those first rounds will be a lot more critical than 6 magazines later.

[Boss Hogg]

In lab testing, froglube has a low coefficient of friction (half of breakfree clp), produces a 56mm scar in the falex four ball. That is pretty decent lube, and better than mil spec.

In personal testing, froglube protects unfinished steel very well. Even from heavy concentration of saltwater. Operationally, a friend of mine used the clp froglube during combat salt water swims without issue.

In my own experiencence, and that of numerous others, it absolutely slaughters carbon fouling, and I have found it to very slowly work its way under brass smears on the brass deflector, fwiw.

It fills the C, L, and P pretty well.

You have been hammering Froglube on this forum and have recently been singing the praises of Rand CLP. Why the sudden renewed interest in FL? Does Rand not work as you had expected?

[Voodoochild]

The fact that this thread has made it to 51 pages astounds me. Obviously people are going to have to agree to disagree. If you like FL then great if you don't then great. Use what works for you and leave it at that.